F800 head-set bearing how to

Snowy · Jun 18, 2012

In this pic, the manual says to do this:

Which will save wrecking the cup washer dust cap thingy.

For what it's worth.

edit: that's a 4mm dia hole in the bottom clamp that allows you to use a drift, heat the bearing and just tap it off.

An easy/alternate way to shift the outer bearing ring from inside the head stem is to run a light bead of weld around the inside of the outer bearing shell. It will shrink when it cools and fall out.

Edit 2: Embeedee got to it between me thinking about it, and me writing about it. Oops.

Snowy · Jun 18, 2012

C5! said: ↑

great post.
would be the same work just to grease them?
and how often that should be done?
Click to expand...

To give you an idea, with nothing but trail riding on the DR650 I do it once a year...so every 10~15,000kms or so. It gets a work out, and the bearings get wet with the high pressure washer. I do all the wheel bearings, swing arm pivot, linkage etc at the same time.

The BMW has 40,000 kms on it in the last year and I'm about to do it. I'm prepared to let it go longer because the bearings were replaced when I bought it, and it's not had the high pressure washer near the steering bearings. I'll do the wheels, swing arm pivot etc all at the same time.

It's maybe a 20~30 minute job for the steering head. Jack it up, remove the top triple, drop the lower triple enough to get grease in by lifting the bike on the jack, grease the bottom, drop the jack, grease the top, back together. I don't plan on removing the bars.

Unless it's full of dirt I don't plan washing them out. Just work the new grease into them. If it's full of dirt, out comes the tin of degreaser...liberal use...wipe it clean...pack with grease.

A hell of a lot easier than changing the sparkplugs.

MikeMike · Jun 18, 2012

stephen.stallebrass said: ↑

Why does the parts fiche only show 1 set of bearings?
Click to expand...

Stephen, it's because they are both the same. Don't buy them from the BMW dealer, source the parts at a local bearing shop. You'll pay less and get far better quality.

stephen.stallebrass · Jun 18, 2012

MikeMike said: ↑

Stephen, it's because they are both the same. Don't buy them from the BMW dealer, source the parts at a local bearing shop. You'll pay less and get far better quality.
Click to expand...

It's odd indeed only showing one set. I've ordered a set of SKF bearings, £21 each. Got them as spares. Mine were tightened a while back so they're good for the time being.

MikeMike · Jun 18, 2012

Stephen, what's the SKF part number on the box? Can you post it for us? Thanks.

Emmbeedee · Jun 18, 2012

MikeMike said: ↑

Stephen, what's the SKF part number on the box? Can you post it for us? Thanks.
Click to expand...

I don't know the SKF number but this is the Koyo brand.

JRWooden · Jun 18, 2012

[FONT=&quot]The parts fiches says: 28X52X16
So that's 28mm ID, 52mm OD, 16mm thick tapered roller bearing

I've not had to replace mine yet, but a buddy did and NAPA p/n: BR32 (mfg. by SKF) did the trick for him.

[/FONT]

stephen.stallebrass · Jun 18, 2012

Oso Blanco said: ↑

SKF part number is: 320/28 X/Q
Click to expand...

I found them using this code. But you can search via the size 52x28x16

MikeMike · Jun 19, 2012

Thanks!

stephen.stallebrass · Jun 20, 2012

Oso Blanco said: ↑

The swap is real simple and straight forward requiring only one dust cap, 2 bearings, grease and basic tools.
Click to expand...

What grease did you use? Is it a lithium grease?

Emmbeedee · Jun 20, 2012

stephen.stallebrass said: ↑

What grease did you use? Is it a lithium grease?
Click to expand...

Elbow grease.

It's not critical. Wheel bearing grease works well for me.

Snowy · Jun 20, 2012

Some of the guys are recommending marine grease, like you use on boat trailer bearings and such.

A grease with a soap base, I believe. Or lithium base.

I think the basic premise with marine grease is that it absorbs the water, and has anti corrosion additives. So instead of washing out the grease, and leaving rust etc behind, the water actually becomes part of the lubricant. It's not supposed to absolutely piss wet, just absorb condensation and such that's likely to accumulate due to immersion and washing etc getting water past the seals.

I use a general purpose truck chassis grease (with a lithium base) that I mix molybdenum and graphite into. Some may not like this, but I've found all around that it resists wash out, handles high temps, and has an anti seize, anti galling quality so I can also use it as anti seize on bolts etc.

I've probably made some mega toxic death brew, but it works well....so...meh.

stephen.stallebrass · Jun 21, 2012

Thanks.

acap650 · Jul 1, 2012

Snowy said: ↑

To give you an idea, with nothing but trail riding on the DR650 I do it once a year...so every 10~15,000kms or so. It gets a work out, and the bearings get wet with the high pressure washer. I do all the wheel bearings, swing arm pivot, linkage etc at the same time.

The BMW has 40,000 kms on it in the last year and I'm about to do it. I'm prepared to let it go longer because the bearings were replaced when I bought it, and it's not had the high pressure washer near the steering bearings. I'll do the wheels, swing arm pivot etc all at the same time.

It's maybe a 20~30 minute job for the steering head. Jack it up, remove the top triple, drop the lower triple enough to get grease in by lifting the bike on the jack, grease the bottom, drop the jack, grease the top, back together. I don't plan on removing the bars.

Unless it's full of dirt I don't plan washing them out. Just work the new grease into them. If it's full of dirt, out comes the tin of degreaser...liberal use...wipe it clean...pack with grease.

A hell of a lot easier than changing the sparkplugs.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a good plan. I just finished checking / adjusting a friend's F800GS head bearings and they are notched. This is the second set, originals lasted to 20K miles, now with 40K miles they need to be replaced again. This is not good service for a relatively smooth running twin that sees off road conditions less than 5% of the time. I believe singles are harder on head bearings because of the vibes.

I think your plan of checking/greasing/adjusting should lead to longer life. Given BMW's reputation for low grade wheel bearings and chains I guess I'm not surprised. I wonder if the non-oem bearings are longer lasting.

MikeMike · Jul 2, 2012

Snowy, if you don't remove the bars, how are you going to release the 10mm Allen at the top?

Emmbeedee · Jul 2, 2012

MikeMike said: ↑

Snowy, if you don't remove the bars, how are you going to release the 10mm Allen at the top?
Click to expand...

It would be possible to get a short 10mm allen wrench in there, especially if a steering damper or risers were fitted, raising the bars. On the F650GS we have I can loosen the top nut without removing the bars because we have Rox Risers on it.

Andiflip · Jul 2, 2012

Get urself a 10mm Allen wrench with a ball end on the long end of it and you don't need to take the bars off,, i am a mechanic by trade so didn't use a torque wrench either to tighten them back up and they work just fine.

Emmbeedee · Jul 2, 2012

This shows how much room there is to adjust the top bolt with bar risers.

MikeMike · Jul 3, 2012

Andi and EmmBee, thanks.

LukasM · Jul 4, 2012

acap650 said: ↑

I think your plan of checking/greasing/adjusting should lead to longer life. Given BMW's reputation for low grade wheel bearings and chains I guess I'm not surprised. I wonder if the non-oem bearings are longer lasting.
Click to expand...

Get a set of better quality bearings next time, e.g. SKF. They will be cheaper than OEM, too.

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