I am having a hard time figuring out how to remove the lock cylinders from my BMW system cases and also my ignition assembly. I am trying to rekey my bike and have already rekeyed the gas cap with no problem but I am having a really hard time removing the cylinders from the cases and ignition. I have gone through a lot of old threads and I seem to be doing everything I am supposed to but I am not having any luck. I need some guidance figuring this out. Thanks! Bob
The procedure for r&r of the ignition, seat and helmet hook lock cylinders is covered in the BMW REProm. The cases? Can't help you there.
Some times the case lock cylinders can take a bit of finesse. Wiggle the straightened paper clip or whatever you're using to remove them while you gently pull and slightly twist the key.
This might help. It's about how to make the key removable unlocked but has the info you want. I'm planning to show some photos of how to rekey if you get a new case and want to get it to match your other locks. I'll probably have the photos in a week. I have seen a write up of how to do what you are looking to do which I found in a google search. The idea is to make it possible to remove the key in the unlocked position. Here's the link: IBMWR Lock Article RB Remove Lock Lock Pieces from IBMWR
Thanks so much for the advice... I finally got both the ignition and the bag locks out. What a pain in the butt... with enough jiggling and wiggling, the locks reluctantly popped out. I can't tell you the instant joy that came over me when they popped out:) Rekeyed and installed... this site rocks!
It helps to understand what's being done with the system cases. All that you are doing is depressing the bottom wafer against its spring to release the lock. The wafer moves away from the detent slot and the lock freely comes out. That's why it requires a small diameter thin probe of some sort. What I find best is a small allen key (hex key). It has the strength, flat face and sharp edges on the hex to grip the slightly rounded wafer and push it back enough to release the lock barrel. There should be little need for heavy wiggling or hard pulling once the locking wafer is depressed against its spring. Aligning the probe (hex key) with the wafer is the only problem. The hex gives you a nice 'handle' that is out of the way, so it works better than a flat probe like a nail that has a pointed end and is stronger than a paper-clip that has too much give.
Great thread and exactly what I needed! I recently got a K12RS as a stable mate to the 1150GS and it came with three different keys. I've been able to rearrange tumblers so now 4 of the 5 locks (tank, seat, and both bags) are on the same key. But I'm not able to see how to remove the ignition lock. What's the 'secret'? Any help or suggestions are appreciated, nearest dealer is 200+ miles away and not interested in helping me with my 'old' bikes.