Hello to all, I'm new here and loctite topic bring me in... A lot of great info on a subject! I'm curetly removing old studs from my vespa hub, because they are to short for new aluminium wheels. I need to replace them with longer one. The old ones had no thread in the middle so they are locking on one side with no threaded part, and on the back side they are punched at the end and are locked not to unscrew. I bought new studs, but they are threaded all the way, and I have no tool to punch them on the back, and also don't want to brake hub (it's aluminium). The best solution I could think of is loctite. Wich one to use? When those studs are in place i need to fasten rim on them. Studs are M8. I will have no need to remove the studs again (eventualy for few years if I damage the treads) Where I live I found only 2701 as the strongest threadlocker (green), i think 243 is to weak for my needs. I hope i explaind well, sry for my lack o english.. Thanks for any help!
Dondy- I know those hubs well. I've bought, sold, restored, rebuilt, etc., etc., many many dozens of old two-stroke small frame, and large frame vespas through the years. Any Red threadlocker will work just fine for this application. Just remember, if you ever have to remove the studs you'll likely have to heat the area of the hub surrounding the stud until you see the first sign of smoke. By doing so, you will have softened up the red threadlocker to the point you can remove the stud without damaging the threads in the aluminum hub. The backside of the wheel studs take 6mm allen wrench for removal if I remember correctly. Those hubs look to have many coats of silver paint on them and must be removed to bare metal before you should even consider trying an allen wrench to remove those studs. Once you get the paint off inside of the allen wrench holes, take a microtorch-the sort crack heads use and heat the hub in the area where the stud is held captive. It'll come out. Trust me. Dirty
Thank you far a fast answer. I'm ok with taking them of, I already did one, but needed to grind back side because they are punched and streched, and unscrew to front (to save the iner thread). I'm having a problem to find red locker (find on henkel page that 272 will do the yob), so instead I bought 2701 (green), the strongest i could find. Will the green one do the yob ?
I wouldn't worry too much about the number of the threadlocker since we have different numbered products here in the States. Green and Red threadlockers in the Loctite Brand are all stronger than Blue products. You will be fine by selecting a Green threadlocker to secure the wheel studs into the hub. Ride Safe! Dirty
Thank you dirty! I read all the 40 pages of this topic, and I know that I can trust you! PS. Green is also heat separate only ?
Thanks! I hope I will not lose the weels.. Now mowing to the two stroke part.. lot's intresting stuff to read...
Hey Dirty... how come you never told us about Freeze and Release? I used it to help remove some bearing races. Still had to cut the races, but they came out much easer than I remembered from the previous replacement. I think the Freeze and Release helped.
Hi Dirty, I need to plug a hole in an aluminum transfer case with a steel pipe plug to separate the transmission oil from the transfer case oil, gear oil on both sides. Is 266 the right product for this? The plug will be permanent. Thank you as always. nick
Hi Dirty! I am wondering if Loctite's thread repair would be a good choice to repair stripped valve cover holes in a KLR 650 head. The thread is M6 and about 12mm long. Is there a thread repair product that is capable of higher than 300 degrees? Not sure how hot the head might get. It is liquid cooled and has a rubber gasket so I am thinking it should be OK but am interested in higher temp possibilities. I found this thread about a year ago and have found it very informative and entertaining too! Best Regards....justjeff
Nick-I'd use 545 in this application, a 10ml bottle is as small as it gets- pn.32429 266 is a threadlocker. FWIW... the 2XX like the 242, 262, 266, 271, 277, etc., etc., are all threadlockers and the lower the numbers typically denote lower strengths-higher numbers denote higher strength. 5XX are a bit more confusing because this number series refers to both threadsealants and anaerobic gasket eliminators. The higher the numbers in the case of these two familes of products does not hold true. The 6XX series are all retaining compounds. And in this product category higher numbers do not necessarily mean the products are stronger. Dirty
Jeff- Have you ever heard of a Timesert? The very same thing happened on Tiny D's 250SXF valve cover bolt holes awhile back-he still hasn't quite figured out exactly how "tight" "tight" has to be, but it wasn't the end of the world but it was a learning experience for him. Oh, yeah how 'bout those Tigers! Umm, I'm sorry what did you ask me again? Dirty
Hi Dirty! Being a machinist I have installed both Timeserts and Helicoils many times. Are you saying that the Loctite Thread Repair would not be a viable alternative, say for someone who is not skilled in installing a helicoil? Or for a field repair? The reason I am asking is the question came up on KLRForum where I spend a lot of time and I remembered reading about Loctite thread repair on this forum. I will report back with your response. Best Regards....justjeff
My XChallenge has a plastic tank. On top is a vent cap that is bolted to the tank with course SS screws, probably self tapping. Some of the threads in the tank are stripped. The threaded tank holes are blind holes. Does the Loctite form a thread have any chance of working in this application?
I think he is saying without saying, know what I am saying? I have the same problem, '08 KLR650 right front valve cover bolt stripped. Found many of the same bolt holes stripped in my quest on many multiples of sights It is a special flange head bolt so using a longer bolt is not feasible. The bike is in a very "rural" area in the south central Philippines so no Graingers or anything else around the corner. Whatever the fix it needs to be strong and done with normal shop tools (ie no machines) Thanks, Scott
You could certainly drill and tap the stripped hole for a Helicoil using a hand drill. Could you not get a Helicoil thread repair kit mailed to you? My further investigation of the Loctite and Permatex liquid thread repair revealed that on a 6mm bolt it is only capable of 23in/lbs. Hardly worth doing in my opinion. Regards....justjeff
Team- I've been completely out of pocket @ Philmont for the last 2 wks and just now got back to civilization. That Stripped thread repair kit isn't the thing to ise on stripped metal inserts in a plastic tank. I'd use a suitable plastic adhesive in the stripped out hole, press the metal insert back in place, apply a very thin fulm of grease/release on the male threads, thread the fastener in the insert. Then give the fastener an eighth or quarter turn every 5 minutes until the adhesive hardens a bit. Dirty
See post #604. Working off of my B berry I forgot to mention you'd have to clean out the stripped out hole, let evaporate, dispense a dab of resin into the hole, press in the metal insert, then do the other things I suggested. Dirty
