1883 Terra Ambulator

Beezer · Mar 15, 2013

somebody asked me when I know that I am done with a piece of work, or how do you know what direction to take on a certain bit....

simple answer is.... when I look at it and laugh... that's it

MisterShandy · Mar 15, 2013

This is really awesome.

Beezer · Mar 23, 2013

almost done. the stained glass windshield isn't working out as hoped so it's off to the back burner & a plain one goes on at least for a while.

finally got the saddle bags the right color & mounted them today:

the fuel strainer, tap, & lines are done too:

looks like I need to shorten the plug lead so it goes in front of the fuel line.

waiting on some materials to etch the data plates... and thats the last project

sandalscout · Mar 24, 2013

Wicked!

sailah · Mar 24, 2013

How about a tutorial on how you are making/modifying this stuff? I diggit just wondering a bit more about how things are modified, where you are buying this stuff etc.

Beezer · Mar 24, 2013

the copper and brass are fittings from either plumbing or welding fixtures. a lot of the stuff is too big so it is turned on the lathe, cut filed, etc for a fit. for instance on the fuel strainer thats 1" copper pipe with an end cap, and a 1" x 1 1/4 " adapter. the fittings were cut so there is only about 20% left, then assembled with solder. the fitting that goes into the carb is an old valve guide soldered to a 90* compression fitting. the top of the fuel filter is actually 3 pieces of brass soldered together (10 pieces total to build the whole strainer)

the copper exhaust... same deal, just bigger parts. well... I had to cut & solder strips for the brackets and build a tool to flair the exhaust ports, but it's all plumbing stuff. actually, some of the exhaust is copper braze not solder (special rod).

the turn signals were made from turn of the century chandelier parts along with some antique aircraft parts and some Salvation Army glass candle holders. the holders were cut down and then stained.

the tin work on the tank & cowl is welding and riveting. paint is... painting. all that is just work & knowing how to fix your mistakes

dunno... anything somebody really interested in I could prolly do a blow by blow. thanks for the interest

Tom S · Mar 24, 2013

Beezer, ya crazy mo-fo. I assume this is headed to the bike show next month? Don't forget to bring some Brasso!

kellymac530 · Mar 24, 2013

Is the issue with the stained glass that it breaks apart with the motorcycle vibration?

If that is the case, maybe using a clear epoxy and sticking the colored glass pieces to a piece of clear acrylic, or plexi windshield might work?

If not, what is the issue with the SG?
Cool idea that I would love to see on the bike.

Beezer · Mar 24, 2013

I cut into the plastic to make room for the baubels (cut glass diamonds, etc) & foiled all the edges. well when you get all that hot enough to solder it works for a while.... then expansion starts putting hairline cracks the plastic. right from the start I did as much of the soldering as I could before inserting into the plastic & tried to work small bits at a time but can't stop it. I covered some, but it stared to look too crappy..... (not laughing.... thats the signal to go a different way). I think I can do it but will have to start from a different angle. I havn't given up totally yet, but as Tom S noted... the bike show looms & I want it to be in there.

schnutzy · Mar 24, 2013

what did you do for stuff like the valve covers, and other little engine bits to give them a copper appearance?

Beezer · Mar 24, 2013

I got some Caswell stuff & plated the covers.... it's ok but not great. the radiator cover and most of the nuts & bolts that look copper were soaked with a copper sulphate solution you can get at stained glass supply. it actually puts a plating of copper on lead, steel, and even some stainless. it reacts with zinc & cad plating though & turns black. the plating has to go before you get the copper look. I've been burning it off & hitting it with the wire wheel (obviously, do not breathe this stuff) actually, you can just soak it & keep buffing it until the copper takes. then polish it with some Mothers billet polish...

I always tried to use brass hardware when possible but it is getting harder to find... it's all turning to plated steel, and I don't think the plating is even brass because it looks wrong. BTW, there is no metric brass. I converted to SAE where possible & helicoiled the brass dome nuts where metric was required

Texas Aggie · Mar 24, 2013

One word says it all about this project........"cool"!

Regarding the Stain Glass windshield, if that does not work out, perhaps you might consider looking at some old cab forward steam train windshields for inspiration in a different direction.

 [FONT=&quot]http://www.trainweb.org/oldtimetrains/CPR/steam_locomotives/connaught4.jpg[/FONT]
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I thought of the train on the right when I saw your headlight setup photos.

Beezer · Mar 25, 2013

even with a plain windshield it looks very "train" (no pix sorry). thats what I'm going with unless events align and I can do a decent stained glass look

thanks for the interest

Yooper_Bob · Mar 25, 2013

Really cool!

Can't wait to see the finished bike.

kellymac530 · Mar 26, 2013

I have one last idea on the Stained Glass if you do not mind...
I LOVE that idea, so I hate the thought of giving up on it. Maybe later, after this bike show, you could play with a JB weld type of gray epoxy to attach the colored baubles into the plexi/acrilyc/lexan windshield.
That would still give a gray colored, kind of solder look but not require the heat that cracks the wind screen...
Maybe mask up all of the baubels and plexi to keep the JB lines fairly straight, pull the tape before it sets fully hard...play with some test samples?

Not trying to tell you what to do of course, just throwing out a thought. The SG would REALLY finish of that look and give it that POP.

Great job Beez!

Beezer · Mar 26, 2013

first off, thanks for the interest & support. the stained glass isn't totally off the project... just taking a different turn & on the back burner for now. one of the "rules" I set for myself at the beginning of the project is that the construction methods would be by "old" methods... weld (gas when possible), braze, solder, and rivet.... the materials would be from natural sources except when there is no alternative. wood, glass, leather, cork, brass, copper... no plastic, no chrome. when I get time, the plastic starter & horn buttons will be replaced with fossilized mammoth ivory.

thanks guys,,

kellymac530 · Mar 27, 2013

Ok, I see.
Cool goals.
I need to see cloth braided wiring then...NO vinyl coated wires....
Biased ply tires.
6 volt system.
ONLY fossil oil...no synthetics.
Permatex Form-A-Gasket...NO silicones.

I am just harassing your of course....nice job.

Beezer · Mar 28, 2013

.... actually, all the visible wires are cloth covered, including the spark plug wires. I retained the original ignition system & headlight wires but most of what I replaced is vintage (looking) wire. I was surprised that it is relatively cheap and available.

Beezer · Mar 28, 2013

couldn't find anybody to engrave data plates like I wanted them. it's like, if it's not a bowling trophy we can't do it. so.....

I etched them myself, the script matches the speedo & tach:

thats one of two, one for each side of the engine. here it is inked in & mounted on the OEM plate covering where it used to say Honda. I left it a little bit rough... it is after all, a restoration of a 130 year old bike .

this one will go on the top of the triple below the handelbar clamps... used to be a fuse box there

P.S. they are better in person.... I'm cackling like a friggin school girl

P.P.S. etching is the opposite of plating.... reverse the leads

Max Overbore · Apr 9, 2013

Rumor is it's done.... that true? Bike show this weekend... you holdin' out?

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