Husky TR650 - New Owners Stupid Questions Thread

My first good test of the new Uni-filter foam element. I rode about 1,000 miles with it installed by itself (no pre-filter, as shown previously). Spent a whole day at the Falling Leaf Rally eating dust behind BigDog and another rider on forest roads. Figured that ought to provide a fair test. Let's have a look at the result.

I am pleased to say I have finally found a perfect wrench to attack the airbox door with. Got this skinny, long-neck, 1/4" drive, Star wrench set from Harbor Freight.



Pittsburgh brand, as you can see. Let's me go at it straight on without even using the swivel joint. Fits into the hole nicely…..much better than a socket type.



Now, here's the first looksee at the dirty FOAM filter:





Appears to have done a good job catching dust & dirt. Take a look at the back side:



Very clean……and nothing seemed to get past it.



I gave it the White Glove test inside there, and came up clean!

You can sure see dirt stuck to the perimeter of the front edge on the plastic frame:



Remember, there was clear silicone adhesive around the face edge……from sealing the filter to the frame. Dust appears to have stuck to that material. So, it gave me an idea. I wiped grease around the outer edge of the frame before pushing back into the airbox. Figure that would help catch any dust trying to sneak by the air filter.

I bought two of these filters, so that I could make a fast swap-out. This gives me plenty of casual time to wash & dry the dirty filter. I will say it was more difficult to clean the foam element, than most others since the foam is attached to stiffening frame. You don't want to get too rough with it and tear the foam away from the plastic frame its mounted on.

Consequently, I just worked it carefully in a small bucket of hot water & Dawn dishwashing soap. Its my 2nd favorite cleaner (2nd only to gasoline). Don't use gasoline on this foam, as that usually damages the material and/or ruins the glued mount.

So far, I'm very pleased with this new filter. Its working very well for me.

HF

HF, Have you noticed any performance gains or losses? Does it sound different when you crack the throttle? Did the fuel economy change?

I'm curious to the performance side.

It seems to run very good with this foam filter; though, I can't say its any better than with the stock pleated paper filter.

Remember, I was running the stock paper with the additional foam pre-filter stuffed into the inlet port. So, I came from that reference point to this configuration (above). I do believe its running better....a little stronger.... with the single foam filter versus the double combo before. Probably breathing easier now.

I'd have to do a comparative on a dyno to be certain. My bike still pulls wheelies easily under its own power, in 1st gear, with either configuration.

As far as "sound", I haven't noticed any significant difference. At least none that has been noteworthy. The intake is quite concealed, so I don't hear it sucking air much. My Husaberg, now that's a loud intake. So, I might be biased or conditioned from riding the Berg. The Terra is a very quiet bike on both ends.

Fuel economy seems about the same.

HF

Several months ago, I noticed my cap was missing on the plastic bottle for the radiator fluid expansion - overflow. And I pondered how that happened. I remembered checking the fluid level, adding a bit, and screwing the cap back on firmly. While waiting for a replacement cap from the Motherland, I improvised with a piece of sponge first, then a small rubber plumbers plug second. These served the purpose well enough, until the new threaded cap arrived 6 weeks later (ouch).

With a new cap in hand, I went about the task of debugging the original problem……and soon identified the culprit. The black plastic shroud in front of the expansion bottle is too close to the neck. When I screwed the cap on, I didn't realize it was bottoming out on top of the plastic shroud, way before the threads were cinched tight. It "felt" tight....wouldn't turn anymore. Thought I was done. But in fact the cap was just mid-thread and not sealed. So apparently, it vibrated off (unwinding itself).

You better check yours out carefully and be sure you are not hanging up on the plastic shroud when you screw your cap on.

Here was my simple solution to eliminate this problem forever:



Simply trim away a little bit of the the plastic shroud to provide more clearance for the cap. There is plenty to play with there, so don't be stingy. Take your utility knife and slice a chunk out…..being very careful not to poke the bottle with your knife blade.

This is how the cap should look when properly seated onto the threads. Here, it is tightened down all the way.



The factory probably installed the bottle with cap in place, long before installing the plastic shroud. So, they would not have encountered this problem. You very likely will, if your clearance is like mine, the first time you unscrew that cap for a look inside the bottle.

I've given up trying to read the level thru the site window on that thingy. Can't find it even with a flashlight shining inside the bottle. So, I finally made me a dipstick out of a small wooden dowel rod. I can read the "wet" level very easily that way, and make sure I keep the bottle about one-half full.

HF

@HighFive, you really are an encyclopedia of handy hints and tips! : thumb : clap

Hmmm,

HF, looks like you have green radiator coolant and still struggle to see the level?

Mine is clear, or at least I believe it is. I can't see it on the "gauge" either. When I took the cap off I couldn't tell what the level was, stuck my finger in and it barely wets the tip of my finger. Wondering if this is too low? Not had any boiling or over temp events like a lot of others, and the temp gauge never goes over half way (when I've bothered to look at it). Mind you, I bought the bike in Autumn and haven't ridden on overly warm days, but should I be ringing my shop and letting them know? :huh

Hello,

I´m making the first batch of case savers with 6 spoke design now.
I´m not sure how many I should make because it´s not so cheap for me if I make to many for stock.

The case saver costs 75,55 Euro without VAT ( ~ 102 USD ) and I can ship it for
9,00 Euro ( ~ 12 USD )

if I can make a lager piece count I have lower costs so I will make 15% discount for preorders

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http://www.bashplates.de/Husqvarna-T...a-650::99.html

Many Thanks Stephan.

Thanks, Stephan......pre-order placed. I want "black" but didn't find a color choice option, so I included a note. Assuming you'll send email when payment is due. Nice looking piece.

Your skid plate looks great, too. I would probably order one of those if I wasn't already setup.

HF

I also ordered one, GREAT GUY! Thanks!

I will be placing an order today too, in black. Nice work, and thanks for making this bit.

Hello,

first of all thank you. I love it to build motorcycle parts without compromises, and it´s great to have a own workshop. However, this would not be possible without guys like you who buy the parts.

So many thanks.

guys who order a case saver will get the 15% discount also for the bash plate.

Very tempting. Time to go calculate the combine cost

Sent from a mobile user

The bash plate costs 142 Euro without VAT and 35 Euro shipping to US

so the combined costs are

bash plate: 142 Euro - 15% = 120,70 Euro

case saver: 75.55 Euro - 15% = 64,22 Euro

shipping to US = 35,00 Euro

total = 219,92 Euro ( ~ 296 USD according to paypal )

I ordered the case saver & bash plate. Price did not indicate the discount. Will you adjust the final price?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Yes, I will refund the 15%. That's no problem with PayPal.
You can also wait with payment and I send a PayPal invoice.

Gesendet von meinem C6603 mit Tapatalk-4

Yes….it sure does.



The Terra has a 140 x 18 rim on the rear wheel. The largest size Dunlop makes for the D606 is 130 x18.

I've heard a few others put one on, so I thought I would give it a try since its my all time favorite dualsport tire. I'm certainly not the first to do this.

I just needed to wear down the Heidenau K60 Scout first. Well, that took a lot of miles. Here is my K60 after removing at 7,500 miles:





I think I could easily have gotten another 1,000 - 2,000 miles of usage from it. The Scout is a terrific long-wearing tire. Smooth & quiet on road, while doing a surprisingly decent job offroad. Its probably the best general purpose tire I've used.

BUT I've been itching to try a more aggressive tire offroad in some nastier terrain. I new there was going to be mud where I was going, so I thought it a good time to give the 606 a go.

Even though its a 130 size, it did finally pop firmly onto the rim seat after filling with about 50 psi of air. Sounded like a tubeless tire snapping into place, it was so loud a bang. I kept the 140 size Michelin Ultra Heavy Duty tube that I was running on the Heidenau. That thing was a beast to stuff inside the 130 size tire. But I got it done and it popped the tire onto the bead with authority!





Its working great, but took a little getting used to after running so many miles on the Heidenau, which is such a stable-feeling tire.

In comparison, the 606 felt a little squirrelly at first. It turns in (leans) to corner much faster than the K60. That was the most surprising sensation. It seemed to feel a bit more stable after about 300 miles of wear-in. Or, I just adjusted to the nimbler feel….I donno.

Out on the trail, I like it a lot, which was expected. The bike responds quicker to peg pressure and lean angles. Its easier to change direction and turn the bike in motion. However, the K60 is better at tracking a straight line thru rough or loose terrain. This is how it feels to me, having ridden them back to back and putting it thru the paces on and offroad. I've been running a Heidenau so long (on my F800 too), that I forgot how much the D606 sings while running down the pavement at speed. The K60 is very quiet for a dualsport tire.

It will be interesting to see what my next tire will be after I wear the 606 out. Expecting only about 4,000 miles max out of the Dunlop. So, its a 2 to 1 wear rate. I bought the D606 at Revzilla for $103. I got my previous K60 from Revzilla for $160. I can predict it will be one of these two, for certain.

I still like the Continental TKC80 on the front of the Terra. Like it very much. The current TKC has about 5,500 miles and still plenty life remaining. It has a nice solid feel for this heavy a bike, and gets good enough traction offroad. Haven't decided if I'll try a D606 out front.

HF

Ran 606's on my KLR...superb traction on/off road, noisy on the freeway, wears uber fast. I ran that bike very agressive (688 bore kit, stage II head, FCR flat slide carb) and those tires took every bit of it. I cannot think of any time I felt like they were going to give out on me. I just wish they lasted longer!

Hi - I reecently had severe damage to my 2013 Terra which broke the instrument cluster. Does anyone know where I can buy a new instrument cluster? The dealer where I bought the bike will not even give me a price or a part number on the part.

That is sad to hear. Eurosport Asheville has been very reasonably priced on parts. Give them a call and talk to Lee.

828-255-6600
www.eurosportasheville.com

Depending on how bad the damage is, you may be in for a long wait. I seem to recall reading that the instrument cluster had parts programmed specifically for each key. If that is the case, you might be waiting for a bit.

Sent from the voices in my head and transcribed by their drinking buddy...

I've been waiting 6 mos on mine. Luckily for me everything but the tach still works. The price is about 800 smackers as I recall.