I NEED to know how to change my chain and sprockets, urgently that is. On my way from Grand canyon to wards Vegas on the north side. Is there any body out there who can help or are there any good shops around. I have a new chain and sprockets and a DID tool but I have not changed a chain where you have to rivet it. How hard do you press the rivet? Will the KTM tool kit do the job? One nervous rattis PS How is the KTM place in Vegas?
It's not hard if you've got the proper tools. I had to get a beefy MotionPro riveting tool to get it done but a person who knows what they're doing could probably get by with less. Chain and Sprocket Index Chain and Sprocket Replacement
With the sealed chain, it's important to get the spacing right on the link that you rivet in place. You want the width of the finished riveted part to match the width of comparable chain parts. That assures that you have the right amount of compression on the O-rings that go over the posts on the riveted link. Too tight and you can damage the O-rings. Too loose and you don't get a seal on the O-rings. Best done in a decent bike shop, and they should use a caliper to check the width. Changing out the rear sprocket and getting good torque back on the nuts is hard to do without a vise (50Nm). Again, you find that in a proper shop. Torque on the engine sprocket is 100Nm, which means you need a proper torque wrench. Again, found in a proper shop. There are different ways of getting the sprockets lined up properly. The guy that works on my bike uses a caliper on each side of the swingarm to make sure that the adjuster screws are the same distance. Another way is to use a chain laser (available on eBay). The other way is to eyeball it. But, sprocket alignment is important for proper wear.
I had one installed on my bike and a couple of days later it was gone. There is too much force in this chain to have it brake. Cheers.
The techs I go to refused to order clip-style masters for this bike for that reason. I'm sure some use them effectively, but the clear advice give to me was to just get the mushroom type and carry the tools on the trail.
I understand the preference for a rivet master link but I've been using a clip type with the addition of safety wire & RTV silicone for thousands of miles. I check it every day. I made the suggestion thinking the OP might find it easier to install a new chain with a clip and change it later if need be when he had access to the proper tool. Richard
don't forget to bust the counter shaft sprocket nut loose PRIOR to removing the chain..... You might need the rear brake to help hold things still to get the nut off, 31 or 32mm socket (??) , same size as the rear axle nut (?? again) can't remember off hand If you don't have a chain peening tool, you can use the old school (crude but effective), two hammer method to peen the pins.
I was NOT impressed by the shop in Vegas. I am not impressed by the masterlink, which made me lose my chain while riding it. Obviously the pre-owner had put it on the wrong way. On the other hand, the rivet link, I think, has been put on too tight. There is no o-ring on the one side and i think it is stiffer. Safety-wire sounds interesting...
