canisterectomy on 990FI

Aha! So it's a direct fuel injection, more modern tech. My Aprilia RXV550 is also direct fuel injection, and both the RXV and the KTM990 exhibited the snatchy throttle at low RPM's, low throttle positions. A G2 throttle cam helped manage that a lot...

I'm about ready to do the canisterectomy and the sas removal on my 990.
Is there any new information from those who have completed these mods?
Are the resistors proving to be the correct ones?
Tahoacr how is your monitoring going and do you have any sage advice
on tuning etc.
Thanks, MAX

Resistors are working great for me. Same one in both. As far as tuning, been trying to get some dyno time with no success. The Akra map has killed my mpg. It is faster, but I will go back to stock. Even the guys I ride with have mentioned the fuel smell behind me. Thinking power commander would be good.

Resistor works well for me 15KOhms

Where can I order the resistors and plugs to connect them into the electrical
system.
I'm ordering a roll of the gold foil to cover the air box and tank insides, it's
3' x 10' for $261 does anyone want to buy half of it. Check it out in the
So I did the 15 min. idle trick thread .
Thanks MAX

You can get the resistors from Radio Shack. I got the connector from http://eagleday.stores.yahoo.net/ampconnectors.html , but you could certainly do it without that.

Steve,

Thanks for the link. Would you mind posting the part #'s please?

Also, did this work for both ends, SAS and the Valve up front?

Thanks,
Eddy

+1 same questions

Thanks.

Here is a copy of my invoice from Eagle Day:

AMP Connectors: 2-Pole ECK-212 1 14.95
Select Wire Gauge = 0.5-1.0 MM2
Male AMP Junior Power (AWG20-18)
Timer Connector Kit

AMP Connectors: Boots for AMP-CON-BOOT 1 3.95
Select Boot size = Straight
2/3-Pole Junior Timer Amp 37MM/2-pole
Connectors
Subtotal 18.90
Shipping 7.99
Total 26.89

I used this for the canister valve. I still have stock exhaust so I haven't messed with the SAS valve yet.

Thanks Steve

I need to order that stuff up so I can rid myself of that octopus at the next service.

Thanks Steve,
Parts ordered.

Does anyone know the connector type/brand for the SAS end of sensors?

Those who added the resistor(s), how did you secure it inline? Cut and solder, shrink tube?

Hi all,
Thought I would chip in with my experience on a Tiger 955i. I installed a Powercommander III USB and as part of this they sell a device that you plug into the wiring to replace the Lambda sensor. The Tiger is mapped to run lean at about 2,500RPM as a way to get the exhaust emissions low at the testing RPM but this gives the bike a big hiccup in the power output. You just disconnect the Lambda sensor and plug in the Dynojet Oxygen Sensor eliminator kit and tuck it away under the tank. They sell a few different kinds already installed in waterproof plugs. I am unsure which one (if any) will fit the 990 but they only cost US$15. Maybe an option for those not so "do it yourself" with electrics.
Look here:
http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander_iii_usb/powercommander_accessories.aspx

Local Radio Shack only had 10,000 Ohm and 22,000 Ohm 1/4 watt resistors when I went there the other day. Should either of these work?

Hello Team,

I took the advice, collective knowledge and some luck, and figured out the whole process. Following will be the addition of my pictures and how I removed, soldered, assembled, bleed, and put the mighty 990 back together.


For starters, I used the resistors from Radio Shack, and the plug for Eagle Day. Here we go...

The parts list -

Sorry for the huge pic on that last post, now the Eagle Day bits, thanks to Steve...

Ok, here are the steps...

There are lots of questions about capping off the vacuum tubes with caps from Dormans Auto parts and what not. I noticed that the tubes off the throttle bodies were "T'd" into the canister, so I took one tube, and ran it to both throttle bodies. In this pic, you can see the tube doing an "S" to each throttle body. Its quality tube, and will fake any inspectors, at a casual glance as it looks stock, sorta, mostly, kinda stock.

Here is a small snafu for me, attach the front screw holding the wires on the throttle body, when the bodies are outside the air box. The back throtthle body is done when the bodies are in the air box. This is the type of thing that you install, notice, and have to back up a few steps when you see what you've done. How do I know?

I tested the resistor in the front plug, the one off the canister side by "installing" the resistor and checking for the FI light to go out. It did. Remove the resistor and the light comes on. That was good enough for me. In a few pics, I will show the solder portion for those that just like to look at pics...

in this pic, you *might* be able to see the resistor out on one side, and the FI light is triggerred. If you look real close, you'll notice the faster blue color also, well, you probably already did.