Tool Box Idea for the KTM LC4

How did you deal with the oem toolbox/charcoal cannister mounting tabs?

Don't know is that is a custom subframe, but was the abs tube just butted against them (shifting the tube inwards) or were the tabs bent/removed?

Thanks

for a second I thought you were asking me duc, but I now understand you want acadacca (sic) to respond.

but since you brought this thread UP, I am looking to buy some adel clamps (hose clamps) to put around the frame and match with the stock tabs so that Loaded can once again sleep soundly at night not having to worry about me.

pics and details to follow

Just found another thread where accaxxxxx indicates his subframe is a alu one lacking the tabs.

Trying to come up with a decent toolbox solution that doens't requre anything more than handtools and a 12" sliding compound mitre saw.

We are still selling old home in Ontario and are living hunting cabin style at our new place Nova Scotia until 1st home sells. 99.9% of my tools, complete woodworking shop, etc are all at old home (18hr drive each way).

Can dremel (inventor should get sainthood) off tabs, but always hate doing things like that.

Electrode holder an option, but need a way to counter the effect of all that leverage - and being 14" long it just screams 'open me" to any yooth walking along with the ass of his pants dragging on the pavement.

KTM/DualStar toolbox looks unreliable, easy to piler from and too small - not to mention fucking costly for what it is.

What I THINK I've come up with:

1. dirt-bike-gear.com bag on top of rear fender instead of rear rack with an internal bag. would allow decent storage for odds and sods, more costly stuff taht could be taken with you at coffee stops etc - but low enough that my 30" inseam could swing over it.

2. Maybe a much smaller dbg.com bag UNDER rear fender (using same mounting bolts as top bag) for storing a spare tube (nice cubby under that rear fender).

2A. Two tire irons, inside an old inner tube or a cycoactive holder pipe-clamped to the frame cross member in front of the rad. Won't need to get at them often and a screwdiver or dime will get them off, yet out of view.

3. Some form of ABS tube with removable caps at BOTH ends where charcoal crap is. The outer cap would have a 6mmx1.0 hole threaded in it so once cap screwed in place, a hex bolt could be threaded into the lid to make it just that more difficult for some ashat to pilfer crap. I'd just attach a 5mm or some such smaller hex key to my key ring to get the 'locking' bolt out.

Who knows, whole plan could change in 1 hr - or when a gag up the $$$$ for the KTM-Sommer bashplate/toolboxes.

you have thugs in Nova Scotia? :huh

anyways, the dual star box is just the ktm box, with their usual stoopid markup - screw them on stuff like that!

the rear fender bag is a good idea; also the front fender bag is good too. cycoactive has these. moose makes them as well.

bag under the rear fender? how high does the tire swing? :eek1

some good ideas duc IMO. i am also interested in finding one of the SXC side plastics (they flare like the left side) to make more room for the toolbox ideas. Probably are not much dough either.

'thugs in N.S.' ???

Thinking a small dirt-bike-gear bike (6'Lx4"Wx2"H) might tuck under into the recess under the rear rack - just have bolts from top bag grough into bottom bag. If rear tire gets that high - any tool box would be long gone anyway....

Fender bags great on dirt rides where always near bike, but for daily riding, to/from work, etc - think they'd be just too exposed.

Wasn't ready to post this stuff as I have not completed my research for an upgrade to the mounting system of the tool tube (TM)

Anyways, I was taking off the rear quarter panel to make some measurements, and when I loosened the nut on the front of the panel this fell out:



seems a pretty healthy sized rock had jammed between the panel and the frame... too bad its that serpentine rock w/ chrysolith asbestos... :eek1 I'll wrap it up and give it to a geologist friend of mine.

then I removed the bolt that reformed duckflogger is always complaining about and when I pulled it out it looked like this:



note the stuff on the end, they are metal shards as if this bolt were magnetized... hm, maybe that is why its always so sticky... suggestions?

So I finally got to the tool tube (TM) to do my measurements and wanted to post this shot of the zip tie for y'all:



That's all for now; stay tuned for what I hope to be a solution to the crappy KTM welded on tabs...

know how the bolt could become even remotely magnetized.

More likely residue for that @#$T threadlock they use from the factory picked up shavings from inside the nut. May wat to runa 6mmx1.0 tap thru there before reinstalling - threads might be getting wonky.

Have replaced all mine with SS hex bolts. Tool rack off the other day in prep for a tail bag and whole enchilada was off pain free, in 5 mins flat.

It's amazing how much better a virgin bolt looks after you remove it from the bike for the first time and run a small brass wire brush over it. A touch of blue threadlock and away she goes.

very soft bolts + threadlock = BAD

Have decided I'm going to cut off the welded on tabs so I can center any 3" dia tool kit under that section of the subframe. It's not like I'm ever going to put the charcoal cannister back on.

Even if I did, could always just cut it's plastic tabs off and pipe clamp it into place.

but it went back on fine, always has, just a lil' fussy.

if you can wait a bit i have a solution upcoming for those tabs and they might serve you well as an integral part of that solution.

...patience isn't a virture I'm known for (there aren't many....).

My dremel is calling to me. get in the shop and get to work or those tabs are history....

its not a fabrication thing... its a go out and buy 'em pennytech uber-brainfart of mine.

all depends upon availability.

Yeah you got it.......I didn’t have the tabs and a lighter sub frame too. <?xml:namespace prefix = v ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" /><v:shapetype id=_x0000_t75 stroked="f" filled="f" path="m@4@5l@4@11@9@11@9@5xe" oreferrelative="t" o:spt="75" coordsize="21600,21600"><v:stroke joinstyle="miter"></v:stroke><v:formulas><v:f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 1 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum 0 0 @1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @2 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 0 1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @6 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @8 21600 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @10 21600 0"></v:f></v:formulas><vath o:connecttype="rect" gradientshapeok="t" o:extrusionok="f"></vath><?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o:lock aspectratio="t" v:ext="edit"></o:lock></v:shapetype><v:shape id=_x0000_i1025 style="WIDTH: 11.25pt; HEIGHT: 11.25pt" alt="" type="#_x0000_t75"><v:imagedata o:href='\\\"http://www.advrider.com/forums/images/smilies/naughty.gif\\\"' src="file:///C:/DOCUME~1/Scott/LOCALS~1/Temp/msoclip1/01/clip_image001.gif"></v:imagedata></v:shape><o></o>

Personally I would cut the fu*kin' tabs off in a New York minute. This box or tube that I made has been bullet proof. Then there’s that satisfaction of something that you made yourself. The KTM box is almost useless for off road conditions.

that's the way to go. just wish I could find a thinner-wall tubing (3" abs wall thickness is over kill - takes up too many square inches and is frakin' heavy)

Still looking but so far unable to find the inner-threaded end cap you seem to have found. Nice things is that you can re-design the tool tube 18x and still be ahed of a commercial product.

You can use a sock to store your tools in the Tool Tube. That way all you have to do is grab the sock out of the tube with all the tools inside.

Well started the process on our 2 bikes. Built two 12" containers out of 3" PVC (thinner wall than ABS, lighter). Painted one black (for '03) and one orange (for '05) with Krylon 'Fusion' plastic paint, lids as well. The orange isn't a bad match.

Had to cut off the tabs on wife's bike and will on mine. Tried pipe-clamping the tube on wife's bike in place 'on top' of existing frame tabs and using one of the tabs as a 3rd attachment point with the stock charcoal cannister clamp (0ne of the two stock charcoal clamps is large enough to pan the 3" tube, one is not). No can do.

To get the pipe strap clamps or 'jubilee' clamps (in UK) tight enough to work properly will distort the tunner walled PVC to distort badly around the existing frame tabs. Had to junk her first PVC unit as result and go with an ABS one built from some spare crap I had laying around until more PVC could be secured.

The tabs also didn't allow me to position the tube how I wanted it (wife's bike is lowered so had to be careful re tire clearance), so out came the dremel.

Wife's bike has fixed cap on 'bottom' end with a small 1/2" hole drilled into the lowest part of the far end cap to allow air pressure to escape -- you can here air coming out of bottom hole when you put hard cap on other end). Right now has rubber end cap secured with SS 'jubilee' clamp (can be lossened with a dime, etc)

May move to hard cap or screw on cap, but trying to make setup look as little like a section of sewer pipe as possible.

Going to remove my frame tabs step 1 when I install my unit.

Agree tabs suck the hind one. Not very impressed with their durability/strength when working with them.

Using two tool rolls with tie cord. Just hold rolls together with rubber bands and extend cords out to top of tube so can pull whole mess out.

all you need are two of these and you are done...

A friend told me: why not just put some line clamps over the whole mess and be done with it? good idea sez me...

so after some measuring, looking at adel clamp specs, and saying well, lets just go look, I went to Home Depot and after asking a few employees who just shrugged I finally found a kid who knew his stuff. These were a $1.25 a pack:


I got the smallest ones they had there, 5/8", but even these were a tad too large. My measurements were (without anything fancy so if anyone has calipers and wants to refine this stuff I'd appreciate it! ) 1/2" tube, 3/4" from the center of the tube to the center of the bolt hole in the crappy tabs, and a 1/4" bolt hole (not important).




Just detach the Tool Tube (TM) and slip the clamps over the frame/tabs; in the case of the forward one you must wiggle it between the frame and the fender, but it went for me.



You can see these are too big, but they will help Loaded sleep at night now

Unless there are any objections I'd say this might be problem solved!

Great idea Meat. You just doubled the factor of safety. Very good idea.

Thanks. Not sure if anyone else bothered to throw some $1 conduit clamps over their tabs.

Here is a merge thread:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88032

That is where I was trying to get a better fit. I found the tabs that fit better; they just need one hole to be ground oval due to the tab not letting them close entirely. Still a cheap fix for a nagging worry.

I like the idea of the stick electrode holder but I haven't been able to source one in Australia. I also enquired about the paint used on it and couldn't find any locally either. Could someone give me some detail on brands or distributors
Cheers

hey birko,

You are looking for a "stick electrode holder" and any good welding supply shop should carry them. The big 'merican manufacturer is Lincoln Electric, but there are others. Did you go to a welding supply shop and they said "huh?"?

The conduit clamps (i.e. adel clamps) are very common, and you will have to find a size that works or you can make work given this application. It wasn't hard - I did it.