Simplex or Duplex cam chain? On the RS (duplex chain) the key is at 9.00 o'clock to put the mark at 6.00 o'clock . Look harder. Couldn't find Gus's old crank sprocket quickly, but will look again tomorrow. Synchronicity again. I'm about to restart work getting the RS up & running (so that I can sell it) . I'm thinking it will be too hard on my back to ride now
Don't need timing marks, just make sure the valves or cam followers are rocking when the other cylinder is at tdc. One tooth is a long way out so it should be pretty obvious. Unless airheads are speshal.
I'm pretty sure I read somewhere recently that one tooth out isn't too far out - may be mistaken tho. I was going to put the bottom end on first & do the barrels etc last. maybe I'll look tomorrow. I can't believe you have to sell the RS Steve. How long have you had it? It must be part of the family by now.
Only had it 23 years...Don't have to sell it, but just don't think I'll use it, & have other things the money invested there would be better spent on. But I could change my mind. It's happened before.
cam.... crank has half the teeth 2:1 ratio... so one tooth on the crank would be 18* Devide 360 by the number of teeth = degrees per tooth...
Cheers. Hows the workshop - had a looksie lately? If you want I can take a trailer over & bring a few things over - like the lather, milling machine...
Tell yer what if yer can get those dam things on a trailer... yer can bring them down here.... I will have a chocy fish waiting for yer... .
Started on the engine reassembly bright & early today. i got the kero out & cleaned up what I could with it. I ummed & ahhed about getting it soda blasted etc but realised everything around here rusts if it is outside did what I needed to do. Got the scraper out & got rid of the gasket goo off everything too Started with the crank. Slid it in after filing off the burred end. It must have happened when the bike shop pulled the crank bearing cover. The crank bearing cover was bloody tight to reinstall. I had already got it started before I thought of applying heat to the casing first. I began tentatively tapping it with my rubber hammer then ended up with some selective whacks with my big hammer & a drift. It seated nicely. Remember me talking about the timing marks on the crank sprocket? Well after comparing Berlinas & Schmidts sprockets I could just make out a very shallow mark on Berlinas sprocket. After comparing the state of berlinas sprocket against Schmidts I decided to reuse Schmidts old timing chain & sprocket. It may be worn but prob not as bad. I heated the sprocket & tapped on gently then did the same with the sprocket bearing. Slid the cam in & torqued it all up at the front. I spun the engine around 180 degrees & began working on its arse. I pulled out the rear seal and replaced it with new. I also replaced the oil pump o rings while I was in there. I was unsure where the timing mark should go on the flywheel as there were no marks from removal. I thought about it for a while & decided to leave fitting the flywheel (or clutch carrier as it's more appropriately known) till I had the pistons in & could find out where TDC was. After what seemed like hours I finally got the master link in the timing chain It is in backwards - that's what I do. I then had a look at the conrods & fitted those Put a fresh set of rings on the pistons & slid them in the barrels. So here it sits ready for the gudgeon pins & heads. Quite a good days work I think.
Looked a very productive day. Far more than I got done. I put some oil into the engine, & got the pistons freed up. But was more than satisfied with that. Did you ever get the stud properly fixed?
Hmm that stud came back into play at the end of today. I have pretty much finished buttoning up the engine today. I fitted the new clutch plate, new oil filter, alt brushes etc. It is pretty time consuming putting all the lil things back on esp when some things are overlooked ie. after putting the alternator back on I noticed the rear brush spring was one rotation off so there was no tension on it. Cleaning up the old oxidation & oil/ mud etc is ongoing. One rocker cover wouldn't go on right so I had a peek & that repaired stud is sticking out too proud & hitting the cover. When I torqued up the head it began pulling the stud outwards so am unsure what s happening there - In hindsight I should have got a longer stud & put a nut on the inside of the case. Oh well we'll see if it causes a problem later on. It is actually quite satisfying getting to this stage. I will be able to get the frame down from the rafters & start detabbing it.I have to get an idea of what is going to be left bolted on. The parts shelf was looking empty so I got the big box of parts out & laid them out to reassess what is the next item for cleaning. Most of the parts look fairly usable which is good. The carbs need a good clean inside but luckily I have a few bits & pieces spare from motobins It looks like the master cylinder has been leaking fluid while in storage that has hardened into lil white crystal like lumps. Anyone had experience with that happening? Any hints on cleaning it off. I ran out of brake cleaner working on the clutch. Actually wouldn't water work- its hydroscopc isn't it? Mind you when I washed a rubber seal on my MTB brake clyinder with water it swelled completely out of shape. Did anyone spot the new tank on the ground? Nice new clutch all lined up too Mmmmm I decided to spend less time in the airheads forum stratching scabs & had a looksie in at pipeburn. man I love it when I see a bike that doesnt require looking after http://www.pipeburn.com/home/2013/8/29/75-honda-cb360t-cowboy.html
right bike but wrong time - expensive time of the year - 3 birthdays in a week & quiet on the work front - Thanks for the link.