autoTune install

Hey folks, doing a PCV and autoTune install. The PCV install was a snap, directions were pretty clear. The AutoTune is not so straight forward and I have two hang-ups, the unit location and the O2 sensors are much wider.

For the location, I was thinking here but I was wondering where other people have it positioned.


So the O2 sensors are a little larger, I was just going to grind out the little lip on the inside with a dremmel, but I'm wondering if I need to remove the headers completely from the engine. There is going to metal dust and I'm not sure it's a good move. I can get a little bendy magnet in there to gather shavings, but will that be enough, should I be worried about them not blowing out?

Obviously taking off the exhaust changes this from an hour project to something much larger that I'm not sure I want to get into.

If I take the exhaust off completely do I need new gaskets for the header?

Better keep the original narrow band bungs plugged and get the bike to a shop to weld a new bung for the wide band.
Remember also to plug the SAS if you haven't already done so!

Edit...just realized that the thread is the same (no?)...so to dremmel the 'lip' inside the bung I think is a fine proposition....If you are worried about the shavings maybe you can stuff an oiled piece of cloth inside before, which you then remove.

What I did was drilled the stock bungs and the autotune I put in the front of the rear light. The drill bit size was a 5/8 that I used.

stock pipe with cat, not a good idea, after market pipe, no problem. will just blow out.

Take the pipe off, good idea to lube the threads as well! And not to much work either.

Thanks guys, it was late last night when I finished up and I ended up just grinding it out. as it turned out the bung wasn't completely centered so I only had to grind one side, it dropped in nice. I got the magnet in there and retrieved a bunch of shavings. It seems fine, I feel good about it.

The rear O2 sensor I couldn't get at, I need a 22mm O2 sensor socket, the front i just used a box wrench. I'm getting the socket after work, hopefully the rear sensor fits without any grinding... That space is TIGHT

For the location of the AutoTune (I'll post a picture after work) it ended up in the tail light cowl, JUST fit. All the wiring tucks up really nice.

Just an update on what seems to be final and most frustrating step in finishing this project... The rear O2 sensor.

After purchasing and returning an O2 sensor socket and then a sensor wrench, nothing seemed to fit in there. I finally got a good set of boxed crows feet wrenches and the 22mm got it out with an extension. A little heat, PB Blaster and a tap with a hammer got it loose. However now that it's out the new sensor is not quite fitting in, i figured i just needed to grind out the little lip again and it would drop in. As it turns out there is a weld mark in the way, so I need to take the header off the bike. I tried to sneak it out of the rear but it's not happening, I'm going to need to remove the rear wheel and shock... hopefull that will give me enough room to get the header out and grind out the access weld metal on the rear header loop.

What a PITA!

You can barely see the weld lip on the inside of the O2 bung, but it's definitely enough to keep the sensor from threading on properly. It was catching but it wasn't right, I knew it was up against something and if I kept driving it I'm sure I would have fucked up the threads so all and all I'm glad I pulled everything and did it right. So in hindsight I wish I pulled the shock earlier in the process, it would have saved me time in the long run.



success


it was too late for me to finish the job but I will post more photos of the routing of wires and placement of PCV and Autotune. Hopefully this thing is worth it

Ok, the job is done and I thought i would post pictures. Overall I'm very satisfied with how the bike is running now, I wish I did it earlier.

The two big hangups are the rear O2 Sensor and the wire bundle not quite fitting along the right side of the tank, it sticks out just a hair now (not really a big deal). If I had to do it all over I would definitely just remove the rear wheel, remove the shock, remove the rear header and install the O2 sensor when it's not on the bike. It's a little PITA compared to the rest of the instal but now that I've done it I could do it in a couple hours as opposed to the 4 days :)

The autotune and PCV both fit nicely in the rear cowl.


routing through the ride side, pigtailing on one of the blinker hots for power, then routing to the right side frame for ground.


Here is the right side routing, I tried to get as much on the inside of the frame as possible. Red and Purple = PCV, Blue = Autotune ground, Green = O2 sensor routing. The dotted purple line at the top is where the tank needs space.


Here is a closer look


This is the rear O2 sensor, wasn't too happy about it needing to touch the engine, i'm going to have to keep an eye on it and make sure it doesn't cook in the hotter months, so far it's fine.


That's about it, hope this is helpful for anyone looking to install it.

cheers

Looking forward to your tuning results!

Motorcycle consumer news did an autotune install on a KTM twin. I think it may have been a duke. They had quite a bit of install information. You may be able to find it online.

I thought I would report back on the install now that it's a few weeks out. So far I've been 100% satisfied with having done it, especially since I was able to get deals on both the PCV and AutoTune. The bike is just TONS smoother especially at low RPMs, I used to have a 3k RPM hickup and that's completely gone. I think it's important to mention that I don't feel a huge performance boost but just having smoothed it out I feel so much more confident on the bike. Fuel economy is about the same, I haven't been the best about documenting it but I'm filling up the same amount with my normal commute.

So my final recipe ended up being:
2010 PowerTrip 2-1 Wings exhaust map (flashed the ECU with TuneECU)
PCV map zero'd out
AutoTune actively making trims

Good news!
What AFR values are you using?

Good question, I should have mentioned that. 13.2 was what DynoJet recommended.

How'bout fuel mileage, what values are you getting even if pretty much unchanged from previous setup?

MPG is pretty much exactly the same. I was actually about to call up Dyno Jet tech to see if there are suggestions to get better MPG.

Obviously I can't speak for either person but I would suggest soliciting some assistance from Tahoeacr or Cyborg. I am going from memory but they did extensive work with their 990 EFI systems. You might want to read through the thread or seek assistance with an AFR table. I would trust their direct knowledge before I would trust the generic knowledge from Dyno Jet.

You are leaving good mileage on the table (or should I say off the table. pun intended) with a straight 13.2. That is rich for even an air cooled Harley at crusing speeds.

What is your cruising engine speed?
You may try to use AFR=14.7 for small throttle openings (TPS = up to 20%), moderate engine speeds (3 - 5k) and top three gears. Leave everything else at 13.2

+1

I usually cruise at 65-75.

Thanks for the advice I'll have to do some digging on that see if I can find the threads, I'm really just learning on EFI's. I'll give it a shot though, I love the way it's running but the gas usage is pitiful. My Road King used to get at least 45 MPG

Finally getting around to doing this... does this AFI mapping look correct?

I don't know much but that seems like a large difference between the two numbers, shouldn't I tapper the numbers gradually up to 14.7 and then down to the 13.2?