Its not supriseing because people didn't sue at the drop of a hat back then. Now all the manufacturers want to cover their ass so they make the speedos read fast. Its not a technology issue, its a liability issue. Obviously BMW has a sensitive legal deparment.
I need a stock seat for my wife's 1994 DR350SE. Color not so important as it will only be used for pure offroad days when her Corbinisnt practical. I would prefer one with a good cover on it, but for the right price will consider anything.... Thanks!
I feel like an idiot, but I need some help. I tried to search the thread but for some reason it would work. Anyway, I've a 2005 DR 650. I've decided to deal with my NSU switch today and read up on the internet how to do it. The options were to either get certain sized bolts, lock tight, and steal wire to solidify the switch or to simply take it out. Being that I'm in Africa and there is neither nice fancy bolts nor lock tight available, I chose to simply take it out. I removed the pressure plate with no problem and got the wire out of the way. The problem is the little button behind the pressure plate. How do I either take it out or bypass it so I can start the bike? Thanks for any help you can give.
Off idle to 1/2 throttle is what I use in the mountains in 1st and second gear, so its quite anoying when I want to use the engines torque over rocks. And stopping every 30minutes to let the bike cool down is even more anoying. I am starting to think I must go back to the oem 79mm piston and a new barrel, but damn, I love the second gear power wheelies on road.
I am looking at buying a DR350 to use as a trail bike and ultimately for a trip down the Continental Divide Trail next summer. There is the odd one that comes up for sale around these parts, so I have me eyes peeled. Anyway, is there a better version to look out for? I understand with the early kick-start ones, there was a street version and a dirt version. From what I have read, it seems there are advantages to getting a dirt version in that they have better suspension, rear disc brakes, among other improvements. The drawback is no turn signals or bits to make it street legal. Is it an involved process to try and equip the bike with these things? Is the kick-start a wise choice or should I be focusing more on an electric start version from later on? The electric start ones generally go for considerably more than the kick start bikes, mostly due to ease of use. As long as things are mostly equal between the two types, I am thinking the money I saved on a kick start model could go a fair way to making any improvements that may be required to get it ready for the CDT.
hey guys. just picked up a 96 DR 350 SE. seller said previous owner had big bore kit installed, so i'm not sure if it's a 385 or a 420something plan on using it as a commuter/weekend trail toy. geared waaay low. i think i'm going back to stock, which was 15/41, right?
Search has not turned up much specific info, though I know it is buried in this giant thread somewhere. Is there a consensus as to best replacement mirrors? Not impressed with the factory mirrors. Ideally, I would like some that fold without tools for trails and crowded garage, but that also stay where you want them when deployed. Thank you in advance. Jon
If you are stopping every 1/2 just because you are seeing 130 on your oil temp. guage, I would seriously think about throwing away the temp. guage! You are safe to 150C -- if you are seeing that for extended periods, then get that oil cooler on there!
This bundle comes from the generator. I have not been able to find the black wire with the male bullet connector on any wiring diagram. I suspect it's a ground, can anyone confirm?
Just picked up a 92 DR350 for $1500. One dollar for every mile on the clock. completely bone stock and damn near pristine. Any ideas on how the ride height adjustment (SHC (Suzuki Height Control) is adjusted?
Its not especially tall, but a couple of inches would have been easier offroad. the infor I had was from a UK site......
Kouba Links. I have them on both my DR's. They do lower the bike but I bought them because they work great to stop the rear wheel from kicking up while going over whoops and larger bumps off road. I have a 36" inseam but my rear shock has been rebuilt. It has a "Progressive Suspension" brand spring which is much stiffer than the stock ball point pen spring The stock spring is ok if you weigh less than 185 pounds or so, after that it's quite weak. The Kouba Links come in 3 lengths. Great product and necessary (IMO) if you cant flat foot the bike. Takes about a 20 minute installation time. http://www.koubalink.com/drinstall.html
I'm pretty sure that is a ground that exists on the street model generator, but not on the dirt model -- so your dirt model harness won't have it. I can verify that in the morning... bedtime now.
Just starting to muck with my new to me '96 SE. Took the old tank off in prep to install Aceris. Took the carb out and will send to Jesse to do the mods (newb here). Replace stock bash plate with Ricochet. Replaced stock handle bars with Tusk. Installed Tusk risers. Replaced battery and footpegs. Still have the hand grips/heaters, windscreen (long distance comfort), bark busters, Uni air filter, cut out air box, replace bearings and a few other odds n sods before I taker er out for the first time (8K on the odo). When I was muckin around I noticed the top knurled shock "ring" was off at the top. Where should it be, tightend down on top of the other knurled ring....? Also my tach does not work, is there fuse for that and/or where should I start to see what's wrong....? Thanks!
A note on that: I had my 91S apart, and missed connecting that black wire. Had no neutral light, never suspected what was amiss. During testing I happened to ground from the neg terminal on the battery to the frame, and there was my neutral light on. Okay... made a jumper, and rode it like that. Fast-forward to when I'm removing the 91 harness to put on the 98 for the magic button job, and I see that black wire unconnected. Not exactly sure the path it follows, but the bike ran with that wire disconnected, just had no neutral light. And it wasn't the blue wire from the neutral switch, either.
Sorry, I sure don't. A bunch of other guys who frequent this thread are much more knowledgeable than I with the DR and carburetion - and you are already getting some replies from them. :> Regards, Gregory Bender
