Husaberg 70 Degree Owners Thread!

Mrt10x beat me to it!

Like I said both of mine are coated inside and out. Not a huge deal. No more boiling issues. Just a really hot can before modifications. If I did it gain though I would leave the header uncoated.

Thanks for the quick replies guys.

The ceramic plater did say that due to the improved flow of hot exhaust gases travelling quickly though the header pipe then some extra heat may be felt at the muffler itself if it wasnt free flowing. The muffler on my Australian spec 390 is very free flowing and doesn't get very hot now so I wonder if it is less restricted than the USA model.

He also said that you really don't want different exhaust gas flow rates along a header pipe as it could affect the cylinder scavenging benefit it brings.

Funny I did the opposite. The first time I did my mid pipe only but I wasn't happy with the coat job so during a winter tear down I had the whole thing done inside and out. Then I took the mid pipe and wrapped the last half with header wrap because that section runs right next to the tank. I like this setup way better but I do have a Akro muffler so I didn't see much heat in the muffler. Much less heat around the middle of the bike.



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

How did you guys spin the elbow on? I bought one and when turning the elbow into the subtank, the elbow hits the subtank mound and won't turn a full revolution.

Cut off the first little nipple thingy with a dremel. Still have three left, holds the line just fine.

Had the same WTF moment when I tried to put mine on.

good work cruz. spread the word they are shit and keep the price down in case we want to buy a spare berg.

here's the vid. tried to make it a bit practical and list some of the design flaws with our blue and yellow beasts but anyone on this thread should know it all off by heart....

<iframe width="720" height="480" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/_ITnRifrPoU?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Great vid B1. Thanks

I'm not too good with wiring in general, but I'm going to attack some of the mess that's hidden behind my headlight...

Can anyone give me a quick answer as to what the general wire gauge is for most of it? 16awg? 18awg?

The low power stuff like the indicators is thinner than the other stuff, like the headlight wiring (obviously).

Hi Guys

Just picked up a new 0kms FE 570 in Tasmania.

What run in procedure did you use? Did you 'use it' or 'baby it'?

I am presuming these things must be bench tested so likely has been run at max revs already?

Owners manual says oil/filter change at 1 hour 3 hours then normal 15 hours. Sounds good.

Any advice welcome

Thanks

Callum

Reading this thread is the best advice I have!

I rode mine in easy dual sport mode before banging the rev limiter off road. I would say 3-4 hrs on the road and gravel.

Oil change sounds about right.

Common to do's are.....remove check valve in gas cap, address heat in tank ( ceramic coat mid pipe or line underside of tank), open up stock exhaust silencer or buy new one, use profil sock filter and ethanol eliminator additive, wear the stock tires out and buy a solid set of DS tires and balance them. Sure there is more. All in this thread. I have read it twice now.

Most importantly, ride the hell out of it!

Enjoy,

Joe

Looks like a couple of 70 degree bikes are up for sale over on www.husaberg.org.

hey callum, well done! must have been the last one in the country. re: running in i subscribe to that technique of riding the bike under sustained load immediately, but not full throttle. i'd suggest reading up on it, for me there was enough evidence to suggest it works fine.

just started a new thread here on the known issues and common mods for 70 degree bergs. it should cover the most important stuff to look out for. your bike would still have been shipped with the wrong fuel filters but the correct ones would have been sent with the bike... just make sure the dealer has fitted them.

Thanks for the advice guys.

B1 - yes to my knowledge last new one in Australia. 2009 model 0 kms .
I paid $10500 with bike including Akrapovic muffler (+ on roads).

Was difficult to put a price on it but it has been dry stored and is immaculate - instead of being out on display in the weather. I needed to really twist the dealers arm to sell it to me though. I think he had become rather attached!!(they were $13650 + on roads new in 2009!)

I have swapped out the crappy fuel filter.

Plans for 'The Berg' . Ride it (obviously) Condo 750 next year in April (first timer!) the fly it to Mongolia and Siberia for 'unfinished business'.

Will check out your thread and see what I need to do.

Regards

Callum

That is super low miles for so little mulah!

http://denver.craigslist.org/mcy/3925194886.html

No affiliation...

Old news perhaps, but I just read in an English dual sport mag. that 2014 will be the last of the Bergs. KTM now owns Husky and of course Husaberg - they say they are "reuniting" the brands as Bergs were an offshoot of Husky some time ago. It was the opinion of the author of the article that one of the main reasons for keeping the Husky brand (rather than Berg - assuming you must drop one) was it's reputation in the USA, going back to Steve McQueen and On Any Sunday.

I'm OK with this as the 70* bikes are almost all KTM parts but this won't help our resale values - but I have no intention of selling mine anytime soon.

Hey Guys, those of you w a Safari frt tank how did you route the crossover hoses ? Did you run the r/h one under the throttle body ? Did you route the main line around the c/s sprocket ? Just looking @ options. Thanks, WW

further proof that if you find a comfortable pair of shoes that fits you should buy 8 pair then and there because next year they will change them on you so they no longer fit

Well they arrived and are fitted, only had one short ride on them so far and first impressions are favourable but not perfect

really nicely made, the clutch lever is a perfect 2 fingers for me and pulling the lever back to the bar without crushing my fingers is no problem where they get the 50% reduction in pull is beyond me, if anything it feels slightly heavier than stock. maybe their figures are for a different model, my scales read it as a 10lb pull back to the bar. if i'm bored one day i'll put the stock unit back on and measure that

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/frostyuk/9295281416/" title="IMG00312-20130710-1041 by frostyuk400, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5516/9295281416_94bf7c495e_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="IMG00312-20130710-1041"></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/frostyuk/9295279788/" title="IMG00313-20130715-1913 by frostyuk400, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7347/9295279788_2f42c1b1ab_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="IMG00313-20130715-1913"></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/frostyuk/9295278652/" title="IMG00314-20130715-1913 by frostyuk400, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3771/9295278652_8c9b73e13a_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="IMG00314-20130715-1913"></a>

for the brake lever i reckon thats a finger and a half rather than two, my middle finger is pulling against the "ball" at the end. feels comfortable and no issues braking but will have to get a few more miles under the belt before i make a firm decision on it especially as i've just replaced my front pads.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/frostyuk/9292504343/" title="IMG00310-20130710-0833 by frostyuk400, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5514/9292504343_462a863f30_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="IMG00310-20130710-0833"></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/frostyuk/9292510599/" title="IMG00315-20130715-1914 by frostyuk400, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7291/9292510599_2d77a29cfb_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="IMG00315-20130715-1914"></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/frostyuk/9292509273/" title="IMG00316-20130715-1914 by frostyuk400, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7328/9292509273_7c785b4f9a_n.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="IMG00316-20130715-1914"></a>

Funny that you posted that. Mine came in Saturday.

Mine feel like 2 1/2 fingers. The ball hits the knuckle of my ring finger on the clutch side. I do run my levers angled very low so that may explain a little.

Don't have photos yet but on the factory street legal bikes the clutch lever hits the horn/ turn signal assembly well before full clutch disengagement. I plan to try and fix this by using a longer set screw in the pivot so it pushes the rod in further initially. Can't comment about the pull because my clutch hits the assembly right as it starts to disengage.

FYI, the brake lever does not have any sort of link or lever assembly. It appears to be exactly like the factory brake lever but 3/4 inch shorter and in fancy Anodized black! Wouldn't buy the brake lever unless you just want to match.

Will up date later but not impressed so far.

Frosty, looking further at your photos I see that your lever is pretty far out, away from the bars. With mine adjusted as far as I can the lever is still pretty close. If I continue to tighten the set screw in the pivot it reaches the end of the threads and falls into the space for the rod. Did you have a problem with this? Almost like the screw is too short or they didn't machine enough threads into the pivot.