Versys owners checkin

If you need better photos just let me know... here's ones of me riding Tail of the Dragon.. killboy.com photo. Never had so much paparazzi when riding..

New here 2012 Versys

TMI

Plasti dip 2011 versys with 2500miles.
over 400 miles and 10 hours of riding this past weekend!

Anybody have a spare turn signal switch housing they want to sell?

The one on the left side of the handlebar w/a pass switch, turn sig sw, hi-lo, hazard sw


46091B 46091-0120 HOUSING-ASSY-CONTROL,LH 1

Hi all,

I just acquired a 2011 Versys with a whopping 230 miles on the clock which means the first oil change will be next weekend and between now and then I'd like to lube the chain too.

For simple chain stuff on my KLR and KLX I just roll the bike onto the side stand and jam a log or floor jack under the footpeg on the other side. Is the Versys sidestand strong enough for this?

Can I jack up the bike under the exhaust or do I need some kind of paddock stand and spools on the bike?

Can I use full Synthetic oil for the first oil change?

Are any special tools needed to replace the oil filter?

What is the engine break in procedure?

Thanks in advance!

I don't know about the strength of the sidestand and pegs but I use a stand similar to this to clean and lube the chain:
http://www.harborfreight.com/motorcycle-wheel-cleaning-stand-98800.html

I use mineral oil until break-in is done. Regardless of whether it's "better" for the engine or not, it's cheaper and I change it a lot during break-in.

I've got a filter socket thing that fits the OEM filter, it makes things a lot easier - no punctures, gouges, or tears in the filter. There are aftermarket filters that have a nut-end on it (like the K&N) which may make life easier...

There's lots of advice out there for break-in, but here's what it says in the manual:
"The first 1600km (1000 miles) that the motorcycle is ridden is designated as the break-in period. If the motorcycle is not used carefully during this period, you may very well end up with a "broken down" instead of a "broken in" motorcycle after a few thousand kilometers.
The following rules should be observed during the break-in period.
-The table shows maximum recommended engine speed during the break-in period.
Distance Travelled Maximum engine speed
0-800km (0-500 miles) 4000 r/min(rpm)
800-1600km (500-1000 miles) 6000 r/min(rpm)"
(p.51, Kawasaki Versys motorcycle owner's manual, April 2011)

I found the break-in instructions a little odd, since they were the same as the ones given for the KLR650, and 4000RPM works out to about 90kph...

I hope this helps!

I use spools and a Harbor Freight stand. Well worth the investment. No, unless you've got the Kawasaki Special Tool/Jack that lets you jack it under the frame, but above the exhaust, don't.

I typically wait to there's at least 3K on a bike before switching to synth.

You'll need a seriously tight grip to get the OEM filter off. I bought a filter tool that fits that specific size yesterday at AutoZone for about $5.00 to get to the filter on my FZ8 which is a little harder to reach. One of these:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...le-wrench/_/N-25ra?itemIdentifier=153161_0_0_

Best break in procedure ever:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Thanks for the feedback, all. I've ordered spools and a swingarm lift, I'm hoping the local dealer has the OEM filter in stock so I can get the right size adapter to undo it.

Changing the subject, I'm considering getting a chain oiler and if anybody has any experiences with these I'm all ears. The Dutch OSCO "One Second Chain Oiler" appeals. http://www.osco-chainoiler.com/en/

http://www.loobman.co.uk/buy.asp

Loobman love it!
http://www.loobman.co.uk/buy.asp
Sent from the phone in my shoe. Maxwell Smart.

A FRAM PH7317 or equivalent works. Don't need no stinkin' OEM filters

Careful with those cheap filters> I won't use any Fram filters (google filter comparisons) and recently bought a Quaker State equivalent. I compared it to OEM and will be returning it for a refund. The OEM is a very well made filter and the construction difference is obvious.

If you want to save some $$ and you change oil frequently, consider re-using the OEM filter. I usually change oil (non-synthetic) at 3000- 5000 km depending on the type of riding I do (lots of short trips vs longer hauls) and I keep the OEM filter for the second change. 44000 km and never uses oil between changes, still running like new.

We all have our own opinions - and internet lore isn't always correct. Since I change my oil filter at every oil change, the less expensive the better.

Side stand is plenty strong, it can handle the weight.

I use the Bosch 3300

Recommended filters from CalSci website: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html
Recommended filters. All have superior filtering.


About 2.5 inches long.
Purolator Pure One PL14612, about $6.
Mobil M1-108, about $12. Made by Champion.
Bosch 3300, about $6. Made by Champion.
Wal-Mart SuperTech ST6607 Made by Champion.

About 3.25 inches long.
Purolator Pure One PL14610, about $6.
Mobil 1 M1-110, about $10. Made by Champion.
Bosch 3323, about $6. Made By Champion.
WalMart SuperTech ST7317, about $2. Made by Champion.

Just dropped the Versys off for its 1000km check. I've been really enjoying how it handles both in town and on the highway.

Planning to take a trip on it this summer, probably around 8000km if it all works out.

I am looking for crash bars for my 08 Versys. (I know, too late. I already crashed it.)

There are lots of different styles out there. I've only seen two here in the US

SW-Motech and Hepco Becker


I have been drawn to the GIVI ones but they are listed as only fitting the newer model.



But if I'm not mistaken (just ignore my wifes laughter in the background)

The frame is the exact same. Has anyone TRIED to see if it would fit?



There are also some other types that come up on a search


Mastech



Heed

I have the SW Motech bars on my '08 and they are great. I think they cover more important parts of the bike than the other bars do and the mounting system has proven to be very strong for the few times I've put her down in gravel or mud.

Hi RL, I have the SW Motech crash bars and "skid plate" on my Versys. The SWM parts all fit together nicely and installation was straight-forward and relatively simple, as long as you follow the correct sequence. The crash bars and the skid plate share mounting points. Installing the crash bars alone was dead-simple.

I just rode through your neighborhood about a week ago, Hwy 55 and 95 from Boise to Moscow. Beautiful ride, nice country and good roads.

Cheers

I like my SW Moto crashbars.. no issues at all and provide a great place for highway pegs!



Tail of the Dragon....