the DR650 thread

There are quite a few tires that are only liked as rears, but not fronts...

D606- Many don't like the front in gravel, sand, or mud.

K270- Many don't like the front while leaned on pavement.

K760- Many don't like the front on any surface.

K761- Front wears funny.

I'll add my experience:

IRC GP-110- Quietest on pavement, not too good in sand at all, a little squirrely on pavement

Shinko 244- Offroad grip not as impressive as it looks, noisy as a knobby onroad, not confidence inspiring in corners

Michelin T63- Noisy onroad, good grip and feel onroad and off, wears in 3k miles but is cheap so it's my first choice

Haven't tried 606 or Kendas yet

My experience with the Shinko 244 was it was fine for the price. Cheap as heck. Mounted it in Cresent City California when the volcanic rock in Ore and Wash ate the T63 up.
The Shinko lasted well and did a good job. The problem was removing it. It was a real bitch to break the bead. I ride with a 3 time ISDE rider and he couldn't even break that bead. I think if I had a puncture out in the woods I'd be riding it flat.


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I just mounted 244's to my DR. The rear was a bit stiff (Not nearly as stiff as the OEM BT20 rear on my ST1300, tho) and didn't really loosen up much with the old leave it out in the sun for hours trick. The front, by comparison, fairly fell on the rim.

The trick for any tire out on the trail is to use the kickstand of another bike to break the bead, I've never had that technique fail. The trick is the leverage and letting the weight of the bike do all the work. Even my wife's little XT225 has more than enough weight to break the toughest bead.

If you are on your own, you just have to get creative, but I have used logs and sticks and rocks to good effect!


Tim

Kick stand, oh I know that trick and. Bruce know every trick in the book as ISDE riders are timed on it. Try my H3 to break it. Lol
Seriously. Maybe it was a flukey tire.


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Make sure you clean the rim really well next time you have the tire off. I know that my experience isn't normal because I go through tires pretty fast. When I got my bike, the tire had been on there for quite some time (years!) and the rim had never been cleaned, it took about 10 minutes of working around the tire using my Vulcan 1500 kickstand and tire irons to break it loose. There was some crusty dried funk around the bead of the tire and on the rim, effectively welding it on there! Since wire-wheeling the inner rim and using proper tire lube when changing/repairing, all changes since then have been easy.


Tim

Just joining in here. Just picked up a low mileage, barely used (9300 miles) 2003 DR650 that's been somewhat modified with Racetech suspension bits and FMF Q4 exhaust. Seems to run ok except at higher RPMs (not sure which because there's no tach) - I wonder if the jetting on the carb is off.

Haven't pulled the seat to see about intake mods yet but will do soon.

Sure is different than the K1300

This is something DR riders should pay attention to! If an ISDE guy can't break the bead ... I doubt anyone can. I've posted about this sort of problem before ... but I would not have guessed that the Shinko 244 would be a tough tire to break down. But I'll take Docking Pilot's word on this!

I had tremendous problems breaking the bead on my Avon Distanzias ... in one case, rode it FLAT 50 miles on pavement and it NEVER broke the bead. Took Two guys and a proper bead breaker to do it. :eek1 What a PITA. (We used a giant C clamp that a buddy packs)

Some sort of decent Bead Breaker should be carried ... and one that's been tested, so you know you can do it Solo. With flat tires, friends around are always appreciated. ... and that is why I rode 50 miles on my flat, destroyed the tube (Valve stem pulled out). But with friends drinking beer and BS'ing ... the whole episode became a Party.

My experience as well. I hardly ever have to use a bead breaker.

You've obviously not tried to break down a tubeless Avon Distanzia! It laughed at the side stand trick. Not even close! Even with the TIRE crushed FLAT by the side stand, ... the BEAD would NOT budge. You need several contact points, little wood blocks and a few other tricks. I have an easier time breaking the bead on my 1050 Tiger rear ... a 180 X 17 tire than I do on the Distanzia on the DR's rim.

The side stand trick works perfectly on most any dirt bike or 50/50 tire. Generally much softer side wall. But ... apparently the Shinko 244 is stiffer than many of us thought! :eek1

Lol !
Well I'm hoping it was just that particular tire.


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I changed my 244 3 times (punctures), popping the bead by walking around it with jandals on. The 4th time however...
Copious WD40, centre stand of the DR, 90kg standing on the footpeg, pushing up on the rafter, didn't break the bead.

Now several years later, that same tyre is back on the DR and has to come off this weekend.
Looking forward to it...

The counterpoint to that is that a tyre like that could be ridden flat a long way...

Congrats! What do you mean by "except at higher rpms"? Can you describe it to us? Does it have a BST carb or something else? Airbox mods or anything?

Let us not forget the Deathwings that come on the bike from factory!

They are good for mosquito farms, dog chew toys, cushion to lay engine blocks on, and landfill!

Just don't put them on a bike and they are great!!

Believe me, that thought came to mind. But with my creative friends (some who are professional mechanics) success was never in doubt. Child's Play for this crew.

Also, we were working in a Hotel parking lot 250 miles from home ... at 9 PM on a Sunday night! :eek1 ALL bike shops are closed on Mondays in the USA.

The Distanzia is not worthless! You can ride it flat easily at 50 mph indefinitely! Now you guys understand why I run Slime or Ride On in my tires! Can often get you home or turn a all out puncture into a slow leak.

Any explanation as to why one 244 is easy peasy to break down and another is next to impossible? I'm stumped on this one.

I understand about tires that have been on the rim for a year or two ... but with a 244 that's only been on a few months ... what gives?

Not good off road, true enough! BUT ... IMHO ...
Trail Wings are OK road tires, wet roads too. The rear wears out instantly and is useless off road, but sticky on road while it lasts. (about 2000 to 3000 mi), depending.

The front, for me, worked as well as similar style tires out there, like the 705, Anakee or Distanzia. None are very good off road. OK on Fire roads and such.

I've used the T-Wing front back to back with the others. Nothing wrong with the front Trail Wing. I got 9,000 miles out of a front Trail Wing, but it was badly cupped at 8000 miles. I gave it away in Mexico. If they were cheaper, I'd still use them.

if you aussie guys could share this around i would appreciate it heaps.
someone stole my brand new dr650

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?....492855629376.261298.527244376&type=1&theater