Knowing that the OEM sending unit is something with a reputation for developing leaks, and, because I'm about to change mine for that very reason, I have a couple of questions for the forum . . . One thread I read about swapping the OEM sender to mechanical sender so they could have a gauge in the dash, rather than the light showed photos of some of these installations using a hose to remote-mount their mechanical sender. Considering the heat and vibration on the back of the front cylinder may contribute to the failure of the OEM, I was curious if anyone had used a hose to re-mount the OEM sender to somewhere less hostile, and, easier to get to? Also, anyone know of any cross for this switch for an automotive application that might be at the local auto parts store? (would love to get this back up an running without waiting on parts)
Hi, I have a mechanical gauge fitted to my 03 950A. Used an OEM oil pressure gauge adapter (part no 60029006000) to connect a hose to a 'Marshell' oil pressure gauge. Looking at this gives you options. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=324319 My sender unit leaked as well. Replaced with one from a Landrover Discovery. Check this out. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=748123 This, I hope will go along way to sorting some problems. Cheers from Oz, Glenn.
Thanks for the references. After a little more digging based on the info I have found this for the U.S. folks: AutoZone carries a Duralast PS177 (by Wells Vehicle Electronics) M10x1, N/C, 3-8.3 PSI $6.99 Looks like it is a stock item at my local store.
MotoTex, I bought the first 950 that I could find, when they came to the USA. There was a little puddle of oil on the showroom floor, under the sending unit, when I bought it and when I sold it. I tried every sealer and technique that I knew of to no avail.Since moving up to the 990........no leaks . So maybe changing it to something else IS the best course of action. Good Luck, Killer Whale KTM
Mine has been doing a Harley imitation, but very creatively, for the nearly two years I've had it. Each time it has been something new. Oil Filter O-ring Oil Tank seal at the filter Gear Switch O-ring Oil Tank Dipstick O-ring (MIA) Oil Pressure Switch Find it, fix it, wait. Aw shit, now what's leaking?! . . . Fortunately, there is the HOW and this forum, so when these things have come along I either already had read about them, or, have easily found the cheat notes after a diligent search. I am hoping that I'm down to the last expected failure point for a while. I'm getting tired of having oil coating all the bottom surfaces for what seems like most of the last 30K miles. Shifter seal and Counter Shaft seal would be the most obvious things to expect next in the battle. I'll keep my fingers crossed after this is patched up. AutoZone didn't have the part on the shelf after all, but it will be here in a day or two. Then I can get the beast back in the wind. As it is a different design, similar to the more recent KTM replacement, I'm guessing it won't give me any grief beyond the remove and replace fiasco. I actually have managed to get it loose using a box end wrench through the hole in the motor mount, but have decided that I really will need to pull the carbs and airbox to do this job right. Is it weird how eventually it seems perfectly normal to have to remove twenty or thirty screws, multiple body panels, tanks, etc. every time I go to do some "little" item of work on it? Just wish I could win the lottery and get a shiny new 1190 next year, for the maintenance access aspect alone.
Anyone here had this unit fail rather than leak. I have just had the oil warning light come on intermittently over the last 200 kms,now on pretty much permanently. As soon as it started i checked the oil level and there was no clacking from the cam chain tensioners, or overheating so I am assuming the oil sensor has gone belly up. No spare here so waiting on US shipment, in the meantime Dakar is coming up and I have a 3000 km ride ahead of me. Oil, filters and water pump recently freshened up. Is there anything else I should check before I ride out?
Thought I’d found the perfect solution, phone UK distributor and Koso don’t even make it yet if ever ??????
Swapped the pressure switch today. Here's a few notes: The Duralast PS177 will require a 27mm socket, instead of the 21mm for the OEM. You will need to back out the long screw on the starter for the socket to fit. When you go to town to get the socket you may have to bring back doughnuts. If you notice the sleeves on the Flex-Jets have melted into a mysterious goo, you might pick up a couple of feet of thin-walled fuel line to replace the sleeves after cleaning all the semi-liquid, semi-crispy sleeve from the adjusters. Gonna ride it to work tomorrow, hope to be lubing only the internal parts for a while.
