Adjustable kickstand qwerstion

Aurel and others, what diameter bolt do I need to make this?



I cut my kickstand last night and welded a new pad to make it shorter, but I see now that adjustable is a better option. I should've measured while I had it cut but I didn't.

Look at the piece you cut off

Man, looks like I picked the wrong week to quit sniffing glue. You would think a brilliant engineer like myself would've picked up on that right away.

For the benefit of us lazy FF's out here. Me included.
How about posting up what you measure?
It would be nice to go get all the parts and do the job in a single pass.
I was gonna get a second sidestand to mod... What the Hell. I'll do this one. One less thing to swap when I change between knobbies & street tires.

Well, here ya go you lazy FF.
The correct answer is 3/4" bolt. My welding skills leave much to be desired, but adequate to stick two pieces of metal together. The foot pad is just a 3/4" washer. I'll test drive it a bit before painting to make sure it's good to go.

Thanks!
Your welding no worse than mine. Functional at best for me.
That's what they make grinders for. I'll be using a much bigger washer for the foot. Something about equal to the diameter of the TT plate.

Be aware that if you make the end of the kickstand too heavy, its going to flop down every time you hit a decent bump.

I tried Aurels bike and it didnt take much force at all to push the kickstand down against the spring. He was having a bit of trouble with it at the time - not sure what hes done to fix it.

Ultimately, a big-ass bolt & 2 heavy nuts probably weighs as much as the kickstand itself (its pretty light for what it does). If you keep the threaded section short though, you should be ok.

Here is how I did the same thing a little differently:


The Red Arrows is the Section that was cut out.


Then pressed 2 Nuts inside each tube that was JB welded inside tubes and then over the nuts for added security. Than cut the Bolt to size, about 4 inches (with 1 1/2" Bolt Stock going up into the Tube for added support) .




I did drill a hole on the bottom mount through the nut area and installed a Drift Pin or Cotter pin to prevent it from turning or spinnin off via vibration.

It works great, does not flop around and gives a better lean angle.

Hope this may help.

What size bolt did you use? Looks like 7/16" or so.

I wonder what the inside diameter is of the tubing? If the wall thickness is enough it could be tapped to eliminate one nut and welding too.

Dad,

I think you are correct. It FIRMLY fits inside the ID and this process does not need a welder. There is not enough material to even think about tapping.

Hardest part of this process was getting the Kickstand On and Off!

Subscribed for any updates.

Thanks.

He said 3/4". I bet he means a 3/4" wrench fits it, which would be a
1/2" thread size. I would prefer the FINE Thread in original post #1 over coarse. just sayin

Brown Dog, I used a 3/4" bolt which takes a 1 1/8 to drive it. I think Dad is referring to AdvGa's version which uses a smaller bolt and a recessed nut.

I thought real hard about some sort of press fit bushing that could be tapped internally but couldn't find such at Lowes. I do like that cleaner install like AdvGa's , but I fear that going too small on the bolt will increase chances of bending. His looks like a common carriage bolt which is very low grade stuff...I'd definitely consider getting a Grade 8 bolt in there.

You're right mookymoo, that is a lot of weight out there at the end. I'll keep an eye on it for now with intentions to do a lighter weight version later. I do like the cleaner look of AdvGa's...maybe that will be my next iteration after I see how mine fairs.

The 3/4" would be mucho better. Your right on the carriage bolts as they are
grade 2 like threaded rod = NO good / Very Weak.

I was just at Lowe's looking at bolts. 3/4" is huge heavy.
Here's a thought. Use the 3/4" bolt and drill out the center for weight savings. Turn it into threaded tubing. I have access to a machinest friend that can do the work. I was thinking of the threaded nut for the leg being turned down to fit inside the tube with just enough out to weld into place. Like a threaded bushing.
Seems to me that 1/2" or 5/8" rod would be strong enough as well as long as we don't do the mount/dismount on the stand bit.

Just to confirm what hardware I used, here is the picture along with the Cut Section of the Side Stand for your review:

These parts as shown cost $3.69.
NOTE:
The New 1/2" Stock Bolt material bought Below at the Big Box stores IS TOO SOFT


NOTE:
The New 1/2" Stock Bolt material bought Below at the Big Box stores IS TOO SOFT


Interesting enough, it was even bought from an Orange Store!

AdvGa inspired me to do kickstand V3.0....




That's a 1/2" dia grade 8 bolt, with a 1/2" washer welded to the bottom, then a larger washer welded on top of it. I ground the flats of a 1/2" flanged nut to make round, pressed it into the kickstand, and welded. I ground the welds and the flange down flush. I really don't like the idea of just JB weld holding anything intended to be permanent on anything I own. I've had precisely 0% of all my JB welded parts remain stuck together.

The visible nut on the kickstand is just a jam nut.

Single,

Great idea and setup.

NOTE to OTHERS:
The New 1/2" Stock Bolt material ,mentioned above, bought at the Big Box stores IS TOO SOFT

and they do not offer a 4-6" Stronger High Grade Threaded Stock.

Other than this, the JB Weld properly Installed and Setup overnight has been working fine for over a 1000 miles and if it is heavier, it does not flop around or cause any problems.

Just wanted to update my Kickstand Mod.

1-Had to find about 4" Hardened 1/2 -13 threaded stock at a Specialty Tools & Bolt store.

2- The JB Weld as others suggested did not hold so I had the 1/2 nuts Welded to the Tube Walls. The threaded stock is locked into position with 1/2 nuts.

It is working fine and offering a better angle to get on and off the cycle as well as more flexiblity on parking on uneven areas that was a problem before.




The Top picture shows the lean with the Original Stand and the Bottom picture shows the extra angle with the adjustable stand.


So far, though it may be a little heavier, there is no flopping around and the Kickstand Springs are pretty stout.