Any Honda Dominator NX650 owners out there ?

I can check for sure, but I seem to recall off the top of my head that they are 6mm thread (with a standard 1.0mm thread pitch) and about 12mm-ish in length. You can get the flange-headed bolts at your local O'Reilly Auto, AutoZone, or similar.

I just drained from the engine.

My PDF of the Honda manual says 2 quarts if draining, 2.43 quarts if the engine is disassembled.

If it has not been done for a while, there are also a couple of oil filter screens to be cleaned out along with the standard oil filter.

Or am I thnking of somthing else?

Thanks!

Brad,
Does your rack mount to the inside like this?

I'm wondering if it should be run to the outside?

I believe this was the problem! very poor flow, I have it soaking now, will give it a shot in the morning! Thanks a ton

Hi MikeJohn;

IF you're draining the oil, I reckon you're doing a change. In this case, you need to run the engine till it's warm then switch it off, remove the dipstick then remove the oil drain plug in the frame (near the top of your bashplate on the downtube). THere should be a good quantity of fairly dark oil in there! ONce that's drained, the engine plug is over near your gear selector and that should also be drained. The three bolts on the right hand case just below the cylinder hide your oil filter. Someone else mentioned oil screens, I've checked these out on my bike and never had any gunk in them, plus you have to remove the right crankcase ($30 gasket) so it's up to you.

MY manual recommends kicking the kick starter a couple of times to remove all excess oil - make sure your kill switch is off! I did it with my wife's NX but she has no kick starter, I used the electric starter and oil came flying out of the drain hole onto the floor! :huh

My manual reckons 1.8 litres or something to go back in, but you should put a bit over 1 litre (or quart, or whatever!) in first, run the bike a little and then top it up to the proper level on the dipstick.

Hope this helps and enjoy your NX

i bought the bike off of eBay. i don't think the guy took care of it so i am going to go thru it and give it a good going over, the cases seems to have a lot of oxidizing, any good way to clean that off?

What manual is that? :eek1

The problem with this is you will be pumping the oil out of the oil pump. This is not good because sometimes these pumps have problems refilling.

Pablo83 - I can see how that would be a problem! You'd hope that if your oil pump was working well it wouldn't be an issue, but...

Now I feel like a dick: it says that in my Clymer 85 XL250R manual , not the 88-89 NX650 shop manual I've got ! They're both old RFVC engines though, so I wouldn't have thought they'd be that different...

MikeJohn, I've seen a thread recently where a guy did up an old army xt600, and he cleaned up his bike using wire brushes, degreaser, steel wool, whatever did the job. I think he may have used alubrite on his cases. He doesn't really say but I'm sure you could ask him.
http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=12344496&postcount=29

Also, call me a weirdo, but I have used toothpaste to clean cases before, with a fine steel wool. It needs to be rinsed well after but it's very slightly abrasive and I think it did a reasonable job on my '74 KS125! Also has the advantage of being cheap.

There's a good chance the issue has to do with the check valve in the oil pump. Maybe the 250 does not have the check valve.

Honda has published some instructions for priming the oil pump which requires removing the clutch and oil pump. This is a lot of work for an already assembled engine. I'd suggest cracking open one of the oil bolts on the external line to the head to make sure you are getting oil flow.

I need to replace both sets of my turn signals(88 NX650)? Any alternatives to the OEM's?
Thanks

Aren't the RFVC 250s a wet sump design?

I think the XL250s and XL350s were all wet sumps.

I also think the early XR250s and XR350s RFVC were wet sumps.

The 85 XR350 was dry sump and I tend to agree that Honda made a royal mistake by only offering this bike for one year.

I don't know when the XR250s became dry sumps. Was it also in 85?

I think if the XR250 went dry sump, it wasn't before the 1996 revamp. I had a '94 XR250L for a while and it had a dipstick on the engine.

I skipped from an 84 XL350 to some other bikes and then the 96 XR400. Did Honda change the XR250 in 1996 with the intro of the XR400?

So much for the 'poke & hope' method. Should have known the 1/2" shorter shock would make a difference, didn't think this much. Got NX#2 off the lift today. With bike sag, seat height 30.5, compared to 35.5 on stock NX#1. Unladen seat height only 32". So on to plan B, e bay shopping for a longer shock.

Here are the numbers I got plugging springs into the rate formula site.

SPRING WINDS COIL OD WIRE OD RATE

NX650 5.67 3.21" .519" 943.96#/in
XR200R 7.33 3.15" .479" 541.78#/in
XR600R 6.33 3.38" .524" 738.44#/in

After messing around with that formula site a while, the 'active coil' article made a bunch more sense. Thanks Paul.

I'll post up some more info when I get more parts.

M

Thought this post needed some new blood so here are some pics of my bike.

We never brought these into South Africa so this was what we call a grey import.

Pro-taper bars, hand guards, Custom screen(I built the screen from perspex)

Very sweet looking ride, wish i could get started on my NX project, but i got to do my brother's NT Hawk first.
If i might ask this list, i am thinking of doing a Halo theme on my NX, any suggestion as to what color for the frame, and what kind of camo for the tank and body , i thought about urban digital.