Any automotive grease will do. I am using Molybium Multi purpose grease on the splines. I change countershaft sprockets for where I am going to be riding and after 230 hours the splines still look like new. So far the riding has been 60% street and 40% dirt, not by choice but time restraints. According to the parts manual the 500 EXC has rubber dampers in the clutch hub, same as my 1967 Triumph Bonneville did so I think a rear wheel cush hub isn't necessary.
I am using a 606 130/19 with a 120 link chain. I use the longer chain for two reasons. First is that it moves the rear wheel farther back on the swing arm which makes the ride a little smoother. Second, the longer chain allows me to switch gearing from 13-49 to 15-49 by just flipping the axle chain adjuster 180 degrees and moving the adjuster screw about 1/8 inch. With the 15-49 combo there is about 7/8 inch clearance between the tire and shock guard.
Read this first: TPS adjustment post 3631 http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=682150&page=243 For an exhaust leak look at where the header pipe connects to the engine header to see if it is loose.
The wear is from Fretting, (Wikipedia): The ASM Handbook on Fatigue and Fracture defines fretting as: "A special wear process that occurs at the contact area between two materials under load and subject to minute relative motion by vibration or some other force." Fretting examples include wear of drive splines on driveshafts. Fretting damage in steel can be identified by the presence of a pitted surface and fine 'red' iron oxide dust reminiscent of cocoa powder. Strictly this debris is not 'rust' as its production requires no water. The particles are much harder than the steel surfaces in contact, so abrasive wear is inevitable; however, particulates are not required to initiate fret. Lubricants are often employed to mitigate fretting because they reduce friction and inhibit oxidation. Grease the splines.
No problem just make sure to identify that it's a 525 driveshaft and not a 350 or 500. The Honda Moly Paste 60 is what is recommended by Honda on the splines of shaft drive street bikes for minimizing wear of the splines. However keep in mind these street bikes also have cush hubs, our dirt bikes do not. Time will tell how effective lubing the splines are but I'll be surprised (or astounded) if its as effective as a cush hub. Hope I'm gonna be astounded. Bengt Phorks thank you for posting the description of fretting, good stuff.
I just spent about 3-4 hours going thru this thread trying to find these 2 posts again. man, this thing is huge! :eek1 Has anyone else removed GT/6? Does anyone have a source for the pins for this connector? I would like to use the 2 positive connections to run some relays for my electronics.
Hi all, Was cruising the KTM website and information for the 2014 500 EXC is up. Not on the USA web site though, go to the UK version here: http://www.ktm.com/gb/enduro/500-exc-eu/highlights.html Boy we americans get boned by KTM when it comes to new stuff, no 1190 yet and no 2014's yet. And, no Six-Days models. European version EXC doesn't look street legal, more like our XC-W. Has it always been this way? From the website: "Spoiler, airbox cover and front fender, including headlight mask and headlight, have all been restyled for 2014" "A new, refined graphic design with clear lines underlines the high demands made of a modern, state-of-the-art offroad motorcycle." "A new handbrake armature has been employed for the 2014 model year, with new remote reservoir, smaller brake piston diameter and a new lever with optimised lever kinematics. As a result and thanks to optimised sintered brake pads (Toyo B169), the performance and application of the front brake have been perceptibly improved again." "The cylinder head is equipped with an overhead camshaft, which has been reduced in weight by approx. 10% for MY 2014." "The lightweight, forged piston with a box-in-box design is equipped with the high-performance piston rings of the 450 SX‑F for MY 2014. The benefits are reduced oil consumption and optimised performance." "So the new frame not only shines with the new colour, it also clearly represents the benchmark in terms of weight and stability." "For the 2014 model year, our engineers have revised the chainguide for the benefit of higher functional reliability, while simultaneously reducing the weight." "Newly developed high-performance fork oil and new seal rings provide improved responsiveness with more constant damping properties." Enjoy.
Hi FTB, have you got the Flexx Bars installed yet? If so did you have any issues with the clutch line running into the pivot area of the center section? I have HDB top clamp and guards as well and have just installed the Flexx Bars. I cannot rotate the clutch lever to a comfortable position as the huge MF fitting on the clutch line hits the bars. This has been discussed WRT the HDB stuff, and i had no problems with the stock bars. I am wondering if anyone looked into a replacement clutch line or any other form of adjusting the angle of the clutch line. I may end up pulling things apart and making a custom fitting or some other arrangement.. Always best to see if someone has a working solution before re-inventing the wheel. Thanks, Richard
I hope they are available soon. I'm curious to when the first 2013 models arrived here in the states? How early did some of you guys get yours in 2012?
There are 2 GT/6 connectors, which one are you referring to? On the diagrams there is a 2 wire connector that doesn't connect to anything on page 242 and a 3 wire connector on page 244. The 3 wire GT/6 connector is for the ignition switch. If you want to remove the ignition key switch there is a ignition switch eliminator plug that replaces the one that is there. With the eliminator plug installed pushing the start button will start the motor and the lights will come on after the engine is running. you may be able to run the relays from the 2 wire connector. S10 is the ign key switch and K10 is the starter relay. If you are looking for KTM connectors and pins here is a link to the ktm connector parts manual. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=21254375&postcount=3854
Thanks! They are really all in the same 6 pin connector. If you look carefully at the drawing, you will see where it identifies which pin number is for which wire and position in the connector. Of course there is a male and female side. One is the GT/6 (the black one in the picture) and the other is the GS/6 (the white one with the heat shrink covering whatever ties the grounds together). I am planning to remove the side (GS/6) that just ties all 3 grounds together at pins 2,4, and 5 and pop the pins out. Then get new pins and use the ones I want for my add on wiring. I was looking for a stock or aftermarket source for the pins. I looked in that catalog and cannot identify which one of those 6 pin connectors is the right one. Just my luck that I picked up my 2013 500EXC last Thursday and today they introduce the 2014. Oh well. It is still a kick ass machine!
Sorry to say cannot offer any input at this point as the bars are bolted up but I cannot climb on board to position the levers and bars properly since the bike is without wheels, forks, or shock and balancing too precarious for me to climb onboard with one arm.
Richard, I run the Flexx bars on my 500, use EE barkbusters/Sicass roost deflectors and the BRP flex mounts to get everything lined up. I did need to bend the barkbusters a bit in a vice but after some alteration I was able to get everything lined up nicely. Clutch side was fine with BRP mount but my brake line used to run over the top of the mount at a strange angle until I installed 15MM bar risers - now everything is routed under like it should be.
I am going to add the BRP mounts as well, I have cut the ends of the HDB guards and am waiting for the mailman. I still need to sort out the clutch, it's rotated as far as it will go, but the lever is still in a bad spot. Next week I will take the clutch line apart and see what I can make to move the line away from the bars
