BMW G650X Challenge Thread Index

who's rims are those ?????

Standard X-moto rims.

Anyone willing to trade Touratech Aluminum hard case set up for a LEGIT supermoto set up?

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I'm going to give the Fandango a try. I do like the waterproof aspect and the other features.

I believe you will be very happy with your choice... Post some photos with it installed after you get it...

Curious to see how you end up mounting the xtank to the TT subframe. The lack of charcoal canister mount points (which are used by the xtank) has stopped me from going that route.

I'm installing the EarthX ETX18B today to replace my TestCycl original battery (4.6A) that they used to sell (shrink wrapped A123 cells). I foolishly let my GPS discharge the battery overnight and am recharging it but frankly not sure I totally will be able to trust it for a 3 day backcountry camping coming up in 4 days.

It's a couple of years old but mainly because I have a Rekluse clutch and cannot bump start the bike this is a big deal to me. Unlike the old TestCycl, since the EarthX has a balancing circuit (that seems to also be durable), I trust it more so am being proactive. I only use it for cranking, and do not use a lot of accessories that draw amps (no heated gear etc).

As to the highlighted text above, just want to remind others that LiFePO4 does have limitations and drawing a lot of current while you ride is NOT as robust as lead acid batts - their idea of Pb/Eq or lead acid equivalent rating of Ah (Amp Hour) is not really the same and you should understand it.

Here is a very Informative battery thread from an "battery expert". The good news is their "18" model has a lot of reserve capacity but you should still understand if you draw it down as you ride with several amps of accessories... and then park it overnight then you have cut down its ability to crank, especially in cold weather. So how has yours done over the winter - and how many amps do you draw with your heated gear Butters?

I rode numerous times in 30-40 degree weather and never even noticed the slightest issue with cold starts. Snooker is absolutely right about comparing the Lithium batteries to lead acids, the numbers don't exactly jive. But with that said, The EarthX I installed was an "18Ah" battery versus a 10Ah stock battery. Even allowing for some number fudging, it is a significantly higher capacity battery, yet still FAR lighter and somewhat smaller.

Since I used a small windscreen this winter, I never needed to use by heated bib (~30W). But I used my heated grips (~30W) as well as my LED lights and GPS. The voltage never fell below charging level at idle.

So far, I am still very happy. But until it lasts at least 3 years, and really more like 5, it's hard to give an endorsement. But at this point, I would certainly consider another. That said, if there was a Odyssey battery had equal or higher specs than stock I would have gone that route. But the Odyssey that fits actually has pretty meager specs. Although I'm sure the quality is top shelf.

The other thing about the Lithium batteries,m especially in your case Snooker, is you could use your original battery and buy a small (10Ah) lithium battery and store it in your bags. The size and weight would be neglible, as long as you were willing to accept the price.

But my outward experience so far is that it has had no apparent downside, and lots of upside (capacity, size, weight).

I sound like I'm arguing but not... but again separating the Cranking use/spec vs. the steady Ah use/spec, it is awesome at cranking (though it is still not an apples to apples spec when compared to AGM or lead acid).... but the Ah spec is an even worse comparison. And BOTH of these sets of specs have little or no standards (voltage drop, temperature, whatever) to compare LiFePO4 numbers to AGM or lead acid, so be careful.

For example, Earth-X may call it an 18Ah battery but at that LINK I mentioned above he is saying things like this, the way he measured things:

ETX24 labeled as 24 AH he measured at an actual 6.3 AH
ETX36 labeled as 36 AH he measured at an actual 14 AH (it uses a different cell technology).

I'm not sure what his ETX18 claim is exactly... but I'd guess it is closer to the 4.6AH range... and I admit I didn't read much of that thread so who know what his measurements for something like an Odyssey are, for comparison.

The 8 cell A123 pack I use from SyclBatt is labeled as "4.6 AH" and I don't think they tried to publish any "PbEq" marketing type spec. As you mentioned, I actually do have a spare 4 cell "2.3 AH" and on this trip I will be carrying it. Both batteries have high current quick connect leads so if I'm really concerned in the middle of nowhere... I can keep it in my sleeping bag (if cold out) and swap it in the morning quickly if desperate. Ridiculous to do but in this case peace of mind, it is smaller than a pair of socks.

My "brain model" on cold weather is that to warm the LiFePO4 it will have to use some of its "Ah" energy store which depletes it some, before it can then crank. So it needs some storage capacity, but different than AGM or lead.

In your case you really don't have that many accessories (maybe 8 actual Amps) and added to the stock light and items, it is close to being a strain but not too bad.

To quote Colebatch from HERE (and I DON'T know what kind of battery technology he was talking about...):

"The X-Challenge doesn't have enough power to run a 60w headlight and 2 x 55w sidelights. Thats 170 watts of lights ... plus parking lights, ECU ...

I was flattening my battery with 85 watts of heated clothing plus 70 watts of light .. i.e. 155 watts.

Your 1200 GS probably had a 720 watt alternator ... the one on the X-Challenge is theoretically 280 watts ... but thats 280 watts Mamimum, running sustained high revs. My experience is you probably have 140 watts of "useable" power from the alternator... and a standard headlight on high beam is 60 of that. "

I don't take it as arguing and pretty much agree with what you've said.

I couldn't find anything that really showed what the actual capacity would be under various current draws. Clearly, they have ample cranking capacity. But that is actually not a big concern for me, especially with a fuel injected bike (save for a river crossing gone bad). I'm more concerned about how much capacity I have with a lesser draw before I harm the battery or kill it. While I don't have huge electrical demands, the bike isn't putting out much at idle. With that said, even 4.6Ah is probably pretty close to the useable capacity of a 10Ah lead acid battery. That's a bit of an assumption on my part. I thought the capacity would be more, but I think you may be right a draw of a couple amps. (I never could find the actual posts where cy determined those capacities).

It would certainly be nice if we could get the info as easy as you can with lead acid batteries.

The problem I'm finding is that the bike shops can't do the TIG welding, and the welders can't disassemble the parts of the bike necessary to do the welding. I'm going to try and get the welder to come to the bike shop, and they can work together on it. Of course, that's two sets of billable time, but it needs to be done right.

Erik from HotRodWelding also offers TT steel subframes with the tabs already in place.


Just FYI.

You should remove the part to be TIG welded from the bike. If not, there's a possibility of damage to bearings and electronics....been there done that!

Others may have a different view...it's not worth the risk in my opinion.

I'm back! After making the mistake of sell my Xchallenge 3 years ago I finally found one in Fresno and picked it up yesterday. So a big thank you to Clay at Fresno BMW and the GM for letting the bike go. See ya'll out there!

Good for you! I hit Fresno up last year when I was looking for an X. At that time they weren't interested in selling. Got mine in Idaho. Really like it. Enjoy!


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Lately I have been noticing a lot more gas smell when the bike is running. It also seems to stall out. Oddly if it is wicked cold out and has not been running for hours it starts with no stalling. It is not stalling while riding just after starting and smells like it is running ' rich" .

Any ideas? TIA

No canister, and the ignition has been re soldered. No leaks that are visible and no leaks from the gas cap area.

The smell is only noticeable when running, fuel filter? bad plugs?

A little bit of dirt and gravel with Butters and Hedd riding through Northern Virginia horse and wine country.

Nice family portrait :)

Any detailed pics about front fender from bike at center?

I'm sure Hedd would be happy to oblige.

On an unrelated note, has anyone ever had issues with their ABS light not working? My ABS functions (as we found out with a test on the dirt), but the light never comes on, at startup or when trying to turn it off.

Hedd can verify, but I think it is a KTM fender attached with a bracket from schefflemeister. Although I seem to recall the KTM fender is two piece, so maybe it is a different fender. but the bracket is definitely from Stefan's shop (hedd told me today when I was eyeing it!)

here's the link: http://www.bashplates.de/BMW-G-650-...ard-bracket-set-BMW-G650-X-challenge::56.html