Hey all. Today I bled out my clutch on my Gas Gas with the dregs from a bottle of Magura blood oil I have had around, but I would like to flush it more thoroughly, and the blood oil comes in small bottles. A few searches for alternative turned up some surprising options. Many people said they used 2.5 or 5 weight fork oil and or ATF in their clutches. Anyone have anything to relate on the Gassers related to clutch oil? Thanks
I've tried baby oil in the past, and found it far to viscous, clutch action was very stiff. Did I just get the wrong baby oil?
Try using silicone dot 5.0 brake fluid.Use same fluid in brakes and clutch.Does not absorb moisture like other brake fluid so you need to flush more often so the internal parts do not get corroded.I flush rear brake every 3-4 months front every 6 months. Regular brake fluid absorbs moisture so there is less problem in the short term with internal corrosion.
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/p...tm_medium=Google%2BBase&utm_campaign=Datafeed Thinner than drug store mineral oil. I used to convert my OEM dot 4 fluids to dot 5. worked well. The above mineral oil seems very good too, so started using this on my OEM mineral oil hydro's. (green cap on GG's)
Not sure you have NOT confused me. ATF is for inside the housings (lubes main bearings and clutch & all the gears. I really like using 0w/30 yamahlub in my clutch, but the better riders (like experts masters & up) seem to like ATF because of instantly grabbing clutch. I like a very nice slip-able clutch, I call that progressive, slightly more slip amounts in that area where clutch lever is being let out to engage. ATF can be "slightly" less progressive, aka ON/OFF feeling. Then in the Hydraulic levers, I remove the mineral oil, replace with easier to find DOT 5, I cant say there is much difference other than easy to get DOT5 comparatively, most cycle places carry 5.
Yes, ATF for the Tranny. Just got my bike back from the shop, put in one 20 minute ride, then changed the oil. No idea what they put in, but it was not ATF. You more or less answer my question as to Dot 5 in the clutch. I know it will work, in terms of viscosity etc. You can use water in a pinch, or the special yellow fluid as my friend Buck put it, and my old KTM came home with water in the system several times. (very leaky slave) But how will the Dot 5 treat the seals and lines? If you have been running it for years with no issues, that is good enough for me.
Been running Dot 5 in all the hydraulics since 95.Never had any probs.The big advantage of Dot 5 is that it is made of silicone.Silicone is inert so it will not eat things like regular brake fluid will.Your paint and polished parts will thank you if you ever spill on paint or polished surfaces.It also happens to work very well in these applications.
I dont run ATF anymore, I use 0w/30 Yamalube. This is a lightweight motor oil, which works FINE, might be similar to what another owner used in your bike. The thing about ATF, it is cheap, also that it makes the clutch (IMHO at least) very "quick". I like my clutch to have a little less instant bite, that is why I went with the yamalube
Saw this at my local bike store a few weeks ago and bought it. http://www.spectro-oils.com/mineral-hydraulic-clutch-fluid/ Has anyone here used this?
