My r90 restoration.

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I'm only 'bottomless' because there's nothing in that cavity where my brain should be.

Besides the airhead love continues ... someone here is donating a pair of nikasil R100 jugs and pistons to the continuing 'Greta' revitalization ... What goes around comes around!

This place rocks.

Oh hey guys,

Haven't updated in a while but there are new things! I ordered some stock G/S bars to try out the scrambler look for a little while (to match the k60 tires.) Also ordered some new rubber bits and LED tail light and LED gauge lights.
Got it all at a great discount at eurotech motorsports.
Lastly, I park the bike in a very cramped shed (r1200gs, r90, r75 /5 and husky wr250) and my brothers GS happened to topple over on my bike, knocking it onto the r75. The tank slammed the valve covers and left a massive dent and bent my turn signal bracket on the back.
End of the story is a get my tank fully restored for free. Might have them do my fenders (I'll pay that out of pocket) to match. If ya'll didn't know...I never did paint on my bike (except frame) because I'm not huge on shiny paint jobs..but hey, if it's free...I'll take it.

You going with the gloss black? When are you having it done? Mind if I throw a couple of fenders and a headlight dome in with them? I'll pay of course ... Getting it done at APEX?

I'm getting it done with Dave Pfieffer, as recommended by Wes at Apex.
I don't know the complete details and how insurance will handle it but if it comes back nice, I'll throw him my fenders and side covers too and you and I can go in together or something.
He does pin striping as well for them and is used to doing BMW stuff. I'll be going with the stock colors

Crowded parking can be a bitch. I have to push several bikes out to work on anything in my garage.

A few years back we had the "International Incident", a friend's Ducati E900 toppled off it's sidestand, falling into another friend's R100GS, which fell against my Norton, which landed on a CB750. Only minor damage, a few scratches, etc, but all the bikes had lot's of "experience" anyway.

We are going to remember this. You won't get off too easy either.

Charlie

Progressive is cutting me a personal check for $850 after the AWESOME adjuster came out to check the bike.
Think that's enough to get all the paint and tank repair done on my bike?

Yay, it's time to drag this thread out of the grave with questions!
I've been riding the hell out of the r90 this year so everything is dialed in pretty well with the exception of a few things.
My r90 refuses to start unless it's on full choke. I seem to recall it didn't really need choke on even a mildly warm day prior to rebuild. Any thoughts on this or do some bikes just always prefer choke?

My r90 also refuses to start unless I give it some throttle upon cranking. Are they all this way or is there a way to improve that?

My front brake squeaks bad. I don't think I've set it up wrong and the wheel spins freely without really scraping the pads when on the center stand. Anything that can be checked for that?

On very, very rare occasions, the throttle will hang at 2k when I come to a stop...very rare. I assume it's just a throttle cable sticking but jiggling the cables at the carb or anywhere doesn't really do anything. Putting it in gear and letting the clutch out slowly brings it back down to idle and fixes it.

I think that's all I have for now. She sure is treating me well though!

This can be sticking ignition advance weights. I've also had one of my butterfly plates come a little loose in the shaft and it moved a little off center so it wouldn't seal well when the throttle would close. A quick chop and release of the throttle would center it again return it to idle temporarily.

Boyer electronic ignition

Make sure the carbs are adjusted and synched when the engine is hot.

And yes, it's normal when it's jetted and tuned right to need choke on start up. And mine all need a blip of the throttle to get em going.

Try cleaning the pads and discs to eliminate the squeal. Especially clean out the holes in the disc.

Holes!? Man that's a luxury.

I guess I should sync the carbs at running temps. I usually crank it, get a steady idle at 900-1000 (I like it in that range) then adjust them. That may be what's getting me in trouble.

If you're just syncing your cables (off idle), then it doesn't really matter what temps you're at. For setting idle speed and mixture it needs to be up to temp.

Also, "running temp" does not mean adjust them after letting it idle for 5 minutes. Running temp means go take it for a ride for at least 20 minutes or so. Don't just idle it.

Haha, I definitely know that one. It also helps to run it for a while then put some shop fans on those cylinders while your idle and adjusting the things.

Also, just to clarify..I don't need to like full throttle gun it when starting, it is pretty much a blip. If anything, what you're saying is reassuring that mine isn't the only one that needs choke and throttle to start up.

Any recommendations on what to clean the pads and disk with? Also, a mirror polished shiny disk should not be the case, right? My disk seems to be shinier than a mirror (the pads are new.)

If you DON'T need choke to start then you're running way rich. Sounds like you're fine

As for your brakes, you just need to break the glaze on them. Rough up both the discs and the pads with some medium grit, 150 or so, sand paper and they should bed in better and stop squealing. Any "unsightly" scratching on the discs will get wiped away before too long.

Crud and oils are swept into the holes, then when the disc heats up under braking, that stuff can seep back onto the disc. I've used a drill bit (held in the hand) same size as the holes to clean them out, or a circular wire brush.

I think he actually has the solid undrilled rotors.

Yep ... a '74.

Somebody stole your holes?