I smashed a 25 oz. beer can flat and wired it between the sidecover and the muffler. It works perfectly. I use Ortlieb bags and throw them over the seat far enough forward not to touch the muffler behind the sidecover.
I used a piece of aluminum door track (or maybe it was a window frame?) added to my Dirt-Bagz racks to make a stand off for my Ortliebs. I've read good things about this one from Giant Loop: http://www.giantloopmoto.com/collections/giant-loop-gear-collection/products/hot-springs-heat-shield Sarah
Thanks for the link Sarah! I just purchased one. This should help to avoid future melting issues with my Ortlieb saddlebags (that I experienced on my recent trip). Mike
Nice I've been looking at those- giant loop things So really all you need is some sort of standoff and all will be well -? How about on the other side to keep things out of the wheel? It's all probably easier than I'm making it out to be. I'm going to go to the surplus store this weekend and see what I can concoct -.i also have some ortlieb bicycle panniers that might some how be adapted though their mounts are all assuming a rack to hang off. Thanks for your help
On my last trip there was a bit of melting (minor) of the protective surface on my Ortlieb bag near where the exhaust tip is exposed beyond the heat shield. The Giant Loop shield should give the bag a bit more room away from the exhaust heat shield and allow air (wind) to pass between the two. I've never had a problem with my saddlebags angling down toward the wheel. Then again - I usually have a tailbag that attaches to both saddles that helps to hold them up. Mike
I'm a porker (5'8" & 250 lbs) and my woods bike is a Super Sherpa. Takes me anywhere. Here I'm at 12,192' elevation. No problem hauling me around. But I can see where a full size frame and somehwhat more modern suspension (think WR250r or KLX250) would be better. Better but not necessary. This one is paid for and takes me everywhere I have the (limited ) skills to ride.
I'm 5' 9", 250lbs and my 2008 XT250 gets me around and does everything I need it to do. It's certainly not a highway cruiser, but then neither am I.
I really like those Sherpas and would love to have one in the stable. You've gotta figure, modern suspension is only as good as the rider... in some ways my wr-r is intimidating since I have a very limited skill set!! The power sure is nice - I only weigh about 165lbs so I get to use all of it for fun! This is my minimalist "tourer" '08 WR250R packed for an overnight camping trip, tent and sleeping supplies only. No stove or food. I feel like I need to eat about as often as this thing needs gas so it kinda works out . I added a small aluminum heat shield over the end of the exhaust so the waterproof rubber bag doesn't make contact with the hot parts and melt. It's working out great so far. I've had the blue bag for years and the straps were rotting away in the basement, so all said and done this setup cost me about $6 (for the heat shield) out the door.
Look into ATV tank bags. I think these were $25-$30 units. The bike had a quick release seat, so I'd just it toss under the seat. The side panels had little rubber bumpers to keep it off the pipe. Bumpers looked very much like this. (crappy web search photo)
You do realize that a Shorai battery is actually only about 6 AH. They are rated at 18 AH equivalent because of their starting current characteristics. Further they have some specific charging requirements and occasionally need to be put on a special charger to equalize the cells. Don't think a solar battery charger would be able to charge it properly. I would recommend you look at a battery with different chemistry than Li-FE.
I have been riding over 20,000 miles with my Shorai LFX09A2-B12 battery which is rated at 9 A/Hr and 135 CCA. This battery reliably and easily starts my Honda XR650L. I have never had to charge my battery since I purchased it; my bike's electrical system has maintained the Shorai battery very well. I do not own a special charger, nor do I need a special charger to "equalize the cells" of the battery. Based upon my experience, I can highly recommend the Shorai batteries without any reservations whatsoever. Spud
This thread helped me decide a 250cc was good enough, I'm finding myself riding this more than my Harley, which puts me a little outa place here in Milwaukee. Can't do a long haul because the Break in periods so long! cant go over 5000 rpm 'til 1000 miles, than only 6000rpm 'til 2000 miles. That puts me at 48mph top speed. This sucks!
I would just run it anyway. It's odd that a 200cc bike has become my main ride, but there it is. The bigger bikes wait for bigger missions.
Last year I was briefly addicted to the powerful torque of my Honda XR650L. I now prefer to ride my Zongshen 200GY-2 on the mountain trails. I think a 200cc-250cc motorcycle is the prefect choice for many of us. Spud
Greetings from Portage! That is quite a break in period. I'd say after 1000 miles, change the oil and drive it like normal, and change the oil again at 2000 miles, then go to normal intervals on the oil changes... Say hi to my sister, if you see her, she lives in Milwaukee too!
You should google the moto man break in method, may get you on the road faster. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Agreed. You need to rev the engine through its range to create pressure and seal the piston rings. Try not to leave it at any rpm for extended periods for first 1000 miles. Wouldn't say ride it hard, but ride it normal and change oil a bit more often for early miles. Say 200, 500, then 1000 then every 2500 or so. Oil is cheap. Have fun, that is a great looking SUMO. We have the CRF230M as the KLX was a bit too tall for my wife.
I'd do it that way too, but if it sounds to harsh... it's really not, the other chiming in about varying rpm running normal (not beating it) but using the full rpm range etc, is the best way. Oil changes, I was under the assumption you already hit 1000 miles... but if you haven't yet change it at 500 then 1000 and after that the usual 2500 ish. I use cheaper oil on the break in because the oil is not worn out, you are merely flushing out the possible debris from break in.