XR650R electricity

Also, for the people that don't notice the difference, thanks to guys like Ridefreak, XRider, and Cyclewizard types. There is a big difference between guys like those that understand and teach the science and how-to behind the upgrades, as opposed to those that just have minimal knowledge but deep pockets and buy all of the bolt-ons to get cool looking bikes by just buying all the cool looking parts available. :cheers

Look up a thread by Luke called "Stators Demystified" He's an electrical engineer and has probably forgotten more than I'll ever know

How ya feeling RF ??? getting well mate

Thanks for the explanation RideFreak. Think I'm following you. Was familiar with the terms single and three-phase in reference to industrial tools, but never needed to know more than that they were not cross-compatible, but was told that in some cases they could be re-wired. Then some reading that I did a while ago (maybe on eastern beaver's website?) related to motorcycle stators and regulator/rectifiers suggested that three-phase was inherently more efficient and seems like a lot of three-phase streetbikes use some more modern components like those MOSFET dealios. Made me wonder whether it might be possible to re-wind the stators on our dirtbikes to three-phase. No idea whether that would even be a good idea for any particular reason, was just curious. Could maybe keep the ignition windings on their own circuit, like stock, so as not to be affected by the wacky re-wind? Re-wound the stator for my 650 a while ago using all the helpful info that I found here, along with a few other how-to bits on the internet. Was pretty easy to do, just followed the directions and it turned out great, but really had no idea what I was doing. Riding a KTM 450 now and even with an upgraded stator, the output is nothing to brag about, so would be pretty awesome if there were anything that could be done to make the electrical system more efficient, or to otherwise boost the output.

Sean-O, I'm fine, 'least I think so. I think you're thinking about Xrider .

JG - I'm not sure if the rewind would be possible, might be easier to try to retrofit a street bike stator onto the XR. Unfortunately many have gone away from the crank mounted stators and house it in a separate unit.

hi

I've got an 02 XR250R which, if I've read the service manual correctly, has an AC electrical system. I have installed a Tusk DS lighting kit, which runs off a small battery pack (12 volt 1000mA NiCad batteries in AA size)



so obviously, this is a DC system.

what I'd like to do is tap into the bikes electrical output to keep the battery charged and power the LEDs...

what would be involved in that? would I need to rewind the stator or does it already have DC output thats just not being used?

You can run your LEDs and headlight off an AC system. But your signal lights and battery will have to be a DC system. A stock XR650R has no DC system and needs a rectifier/regulator put on to convert AC to DC. If the kit comes with a battery I would be surprised if they didn't include some kind of rectifier.

no rectifier...very simple kit that does not tie into the existing electrics at all...just the battery powering the led turn signals and brake/tail light, and the horn.

They sell battery-powered tallight and turn signal kits for bicycles at wallyworld that I know at least a few guys have used to get tickets signed off...

How does the battery charge?

on the charger, at home after the ride...

this is what I want to accomplish...actually, I just want to run the lights off the bikes juice...I guess I might not even need the battery, unless the LEDs need a capacitor.

I have been reading this thread all night so far and have learned alot about my electrical system and where I want to go with it, but I have a quick question.

I am going to rewind my stator to a 2 x 125W setup, run one to the BD R/R and the other to the stock regulator. On the DC side I want to run blinkers, tail/stop light, heated grips and a 35W headlight. Now on the AC side I only want to run a 100W light. I want to hook the 100W light into a relay and run it off my hi beam indicator so that the 100w light only comes on when I use the high beams. Will the stock regulator be able to dissipate enough heat that I can leave the 100W light off and not damage the regulator? Or will I have to leave the 100W light on to keep current moving?

Thanks Guys.

All you ever wanted to know about stators

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=189734

ok, that explains it...i was scratching my head trying to figure out how you managed to use a battery on an AC system without a rectifier. Anyway, no need at all for a capacitor. At some point you may want to go with a slightly more powerful battery, depending on your needs. Or, when you're ready, just add a rectifier and you'll never have to worry again about charging the damn battery. It's really, really not a big deal to do. Just re-reading the posts on this thread will teach anyone how to do anything from a simple mod like that to designing and creating your own wiring harness (my current project). Pulling out and replacing all the wiring sounds impressive, but thanks to RideFreak and others, I've found it's not only not difficult, but I feel completely different about my bike now. It's like it's got added personality, customized to me, and I feel like I trust it much more, and could fix anything that might come up. Before, I liked to think of other mods but anything with electrical made me nervous. I just hoped no bad juju would strike with all those mysterious wires. Best time investment I ever spent on ADV was reading ALL the posts on this thread.

Okay, so I've been trying to get things more nailed down before starting to ask questions. But I think it's time for a question or two.

My plan is to rewind my spare stator I bought, with two separate outputs, wattage/windings still in question.

I have a Baja Designs Dual Sport Kit(2 of them actually). My question is about the BD control switch. I plan to run two hi/low beam headlights on one leg of the stator, and the directionals/tail/running lights, horn etc., on the other leg. I suspect all of that power would melt the BD switch assembly, so I'll likely at least need to use relays.

Question 1, Can I use relays from the same switch assembly to run accessories off of two different legs of the stator? As mentioned I have two R/R's, two of everything, though the two switch assemblies are different, old vs. new style.

Question 2, How about if I ran the headlights on AC, I can't run them through the BD low/highbeam switch can I if I'm running the other stuff off DC thru the switch?

Ultimately, I designed and today picked up a pretty sweet billet setup that will allow me to mount the two BD headlights side by side. Just a matter of figuring out what I need to do to wire them up, preferably still using the BD switch assembly.

What's the wattage of the lights you're planning to use? Are you planning to wire the stator for 200 or 250 watts?

I left that info out intentionally so as to hopefully figure out how to wire the switches etc. But since you've asked, The two headlights are the two rectangular BAja Designs Headlights that come with teh dual sport kit. So right now they have 35w low and 35w high each I believe. But I would like to put the 55w low / 60w high or whatever they are bulbs that baja designs sells, put that into each. But if I have to go with the 35w x2 that is fine too.

But what I really want to know is if I can run two different sides of the stator off the same switch assembly if I use relays. Do you know the answer to that specific question? Also can I get away with one leg AC and one leg DC using relays and the same switch, or both need to be DC, or can only use one leg of the stator through the switch assembly?

I asked about the wattage because it's relevant to whether you can power both lights on one leg of the stator or not. I'll assume you're going to wind for a 250 watt output (125 watts each side).

As you know, the BD switch power rating is too low for two headlights - you might get away with it for a while but it will eventually fail. Ridefreak had the idea to use an XRL control since it can handle the power and therefore avoids the complication of having to use a relay at all.

Why not use AC to power the two headlights and DC for the other stator output? That would max out the AC leg but as long as you don't run anything else on AC you should be fine. With this scenario, using the BD switch, you'll only need one relay as long as you're switching both lights high or low at the same time.

Q1 The only thing you need a relay for is the lights, as they draw a lot of current. Tail lights, turn signals, etc., don't require a relay and can be controlled by the BD switch just fine

Q2 If you use a relay tied to the BD switch for your AC headlights, yes you can run DC turn signals, taillight, etc. and control them with the same switch

Great, that's the answer I'm looking for. I wasn't sure if I could run an AC relay from a DC signal. Hmmm much more succinct there than I was last night...

On another note, that seems like a good idea with the street model switch setup. Maybe I'll steal the switches off my old XL600 that no longer gets any love.