It's the stop/start button. Pull the switch assy off of the bars and hose the switch with electrical contact cleaner and cycle the switch back 'n forth. Does your bike live outside?
Do you have OEM drive chain guides? Some of the after market chain guides use a hard plastic guides that last forever but are noisy. made mine:
I have yet to check the valves, definitely has oil. I am running the cheap 86 ethanol junk...... I have run higher octane, but that didn't seem to change the rattle. The rattle has continued with a new chain and sprocket setup, but does happen any other time except as described originally.... I am running an XRs only chain guide, but it rattled when I didn't have a chain guide on at all..... Oh yeah, I forgot about your setup for a skid plate. Maybe I can find some time to fab one up.
Most common failure points: CDI Kill switch needs cleaning/relube Pulse Generator (i`d go there next) Igntion coil Ground under the seat corroded/dirty Ground at starter end Sidestand Switch I`d definately clean the kill switch if you haven`t already and then replace the PG generator.. B
It's nothing more than a plain old stock 2000 XRL at this point but I figured I would post up anyway to officially "sign in" Like a lot of people, I have big plans for the bike over the winter months. In the mean time I am just fixing bits so it's reliable and functional. I have about 500 miles on it since I purchased it and it just keeps getting better.
Thanks for the replies, fellas. I will check out ebay and go from there. I need to redo my front as well; it doesn't feel as strong as it used to. I suppose the 20 year old brake line could be the culprit.
I bought a new 2013 XR650L and was looking for the tool kit... I figured it was stashed in the battery compartment/box because it wasn't in the little red bag on the back of the fender. Do you not get a Tool Kit with a new XR? Not that I'm real upset about not getting one as the tool kits that I've gotten in the past weren't anything special but the larger box end spanners with the flattened tube extension worked to loosen the axle nut. The two piece design wasn't bad.
This pic shows how much it sticks out compared to the side panels... Spraying the switch may not solve the problem. I had to pull the switch completely apart and clean it good to get mine working again. Taking a start/stop switch apart
Don't know if y'all remember or not but earlier last week I was chasing an oil leak. I bought the bike with the leak and the PO said it was the neutral safety swith. I assumed it was and when I needed to change out the chain and sprockets, I figured it would be the perfect time to fix the leak. Since the PO said it was the NSW, I just had that in my head and when I saw the boot on the stator wires torn up, I relayed that here where I was quickly reminded it wasn't the NSW but the stator wire boot. I be-guammed the grommet and boot with permatex ultra grey and hoped it would fix it. Nope,,,,,, but not what you are thinking I bet. Believe it or not, it's the clutch actuator rod thingy that's leaking. Only leaks during high rpm runs like when you're on the hwy. It would leak and fall over the backside {toward the starter} and onto the stator wires then down the side of the case which is why I thought,,,, and I reckon the PO thought it was coming from behind the chain/sprocket cover. I popped some seal sweller in and if that doesn't work, I'll replace the seal. I know ya'll are thinking the seal sweller is snake oil but man,,,,,, I've had good luck on several occasions including a Trans Lab trip where I was on Newfoundland when my countershaft seal started leaking bad, real bad. I used twice the recomended amount of some seal swealer I got from Canadian Tire. With a day or two it stopped the leak completely and it stayed stopped for about two-three months and a few thousand miles. Ironically, I paid someone to "fix" it and they didn't bend the tabs back over the bolt heads to lock them in place. The seal blew out while riding and I didn't notice it till it pumped the engine dry. Wonder I didn't bust my ass with all the oil on the tire. I will say that DL650 engines will run without oil, at least for awhile with no ill results as that was about 20K miles ago! Any who, I took the opportunity to do a battery relocation. I have decided to use heavy duty industrial velcro to hold the CDI on the right side of the airbox behind the side cover {it's a tight fit but a heat gun on the side cover will fix that} and will also be placing the starter solenoid under the same side cover, placing the solenoid on the very edge of the top of the air box. I think the fuse "box" will bolt on the side too. The CDI "should be fine since in addition to the velcro, it will be sandwitched between the airbox and the side panel. If I notice any movement or slippage, I'll use some sheet metal screws to attach a couple of angle aluminium to the bottom and sides to further capture the CDI. Same with the solenoid if it's not as secure as I want. BTW, is that where y'all moved that stuff too? Battery will go on top of the airbox after I ground the airbox inlet lip down. Also ground a ridge down on the underside of the seat. I think that's where most of your placed your battery. Mine's a bit tight because I used a 8 cell Li-Iron instead of the normal 4 cell because I've had bad luck with the recommended size cranking the engine when cold and I ride alot in cold weather {well, as cold as N.E. Ga. gets}. I actually thought about putting the CDI in the airbox but thought against it based on reduced airflow and the constant oily conditions inside there. I know vecro wouldn't work in there, was gonna drill a couple of holes and use a zip-tie, then silicon the holes. But,,,,, don't think I'll worry with that now.
