NLS; Could you kindly point me to the subforum and post number regarding the engine exchange due to clutch failure ? Thanks, Andre
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=877412 ...but I think it is a different issue after all. Anyway keep us posted.
Really... I was assuming that the abs wasnt active until the lights stop flashing after its been ridden the short distance to get the lights to stop flashing. But the level doesnt pulse when the abs kicks in and makes that noise. Makes some sense because the bike has to be on to make the noise. Ill have to read up on that. Must of missed that thread. I trailered it because I didnt know how long the service would take and didnt want to be stuck at the dealer for 2+hrs. Wanted my truck there so I could go get lunch or hit the mall up and check out the honeys. I will keep yall posted
I can't believe how patient you were with all the geniuses that replied to you problems and still are. Good luck with your LC.
Not sure if this is a break in issue or a problem but just wanted to see if my issue is common or not. Just took delivery of my bare bones LC. Love the bike so far (my first GS). I have broken in several sport bikes and never had the idle so erratic when breaking in the motor. The GS when warmed up and idling is a bit erratic meaning that the tach needle is a little jumpy. In my estimation the idle fluctuates around 50-100 rpm at a steady pace. No surging. Is this normal/abnormal or just a break in quirk. ODO = 400+ miles. She also runs fine and smooth when moving. I can accept the fickle idle if its just a boxer idiosyncrasy. Thanks
Haha. There were times I grew quite frustrated. However its over now and I feel it was handled well and the bike has seen about 3000 miles since and is running great except for the switch issue that everyone seems to be having.
:eek1 First thing is it's best to start a bike with a wet clutch in neutral, even more so when it's cold. The lurching forward is the clue, lots of drag with a wet clutch. Also, never strap a telelever bike down from the handelbars, you want to use the lower fork bridge. Let us know what your dealer finds.
. I believe the clutch needs rpms to fully desingage . This is way they are easy to pull. Mine rolls backward easier in gear when running.
I agree on the starting in neutral, but I just randomly started it in gear when made it lurch, which it didnt do before. And it use to roll easy with the clutch pulled in and in gear. Also the friction point isnt in the same spot as it use to be. SO something isnt right. I'll keep ya'll updated. As for transporting the bike; As per the bikes manual, strap the handle bars, then down through the leading link,...
My pedi/mani is tuesday morning so i can look good for the tow truck driver ANYWAYS After work I got home. Itching to ride it. Remembered Bemiiten saying SO I grabbed the keys, hopped on it, put it in gear, clutch in, tried walking it forward. Still dragging. Started it up, lurched forward, noticed that it was really easy to move forward(like mildy assisted from the dragging clutch) and a little resistance to walk it backwards. Then I took it for a 2 mile ride through the neighborhood, lots of gear changes, hard accelerations etc. Got the bike up to operating temps. Got back to my driveway. Shut it off, put it in gear, started it up. No lurch, repeated, no lurch. Everything seemed normal. I dont know if I'm picking apart this bike TOO much and this stuff is normal and I just didnt notice it before the service. I don't wanna waste my time sending it to the dealer and not being able to ride it for 2 weeks over something thats normal that I just too picky about. 99% of the time i always put my bike in Neutral before starting, then just ride off. Just this one time I tried starting it in gear and noticed the lurch,... I'm thinking about calling the dealer, talking to a tech, and see if i really have to send it in. Pick up is on Tuesday. I'll call monday and see what they say. Dealer is 1hr away in good traffic, but 2hr now because of really crappy construction.
I was out today on mine, and went to change from 3rd to 4th whilst doing an overtake, and either I didn't apply enough pressure, or there's a problem with the gearbox, but the bike didn't go into gear, and then there was an almighty crunch before it slipped into 4th:huh Its never happened before, so I'll keep an eye on this. Has anyone else experienced this?
If you let the Rpms drop too much after missing the shift the first time then try to kick it into gear with out bringing the revs back up(i.e. not rev matching), it will make a mighty klunk noise. Always be firm with your shifts and dont limp foot it into gear.
- perhaps your clutch slave is sticking = Resulting in an intermittent fault. - have them bleed the clutch and test from there. - as for the earlier comments , imho : there is no need to start it with the clutch pulled in (unless you're in gear). .
You're probably right, it was at the end of the day, so I was probably thinking about the BBQ and Grey Goose rather than my riding!
