BMW G650X Challenge Thread Index

Oil is equivalent to religious, too many answers to simple question.

Large gradients oils, letter W at the first number indicates the word Winter. Ie viscosity at low temperature. The second number indicates the viscosity at 100 degrees Celsius. For example: SAE 10W40. When the engine is cold, this oil is the same viscosity level of SAE 10W when it is cold, but when the engine reaches operating temperature, viscosity will be the same as SAE 40 viscosity oil while at 100 degrees Celsius.
The main advantage of synthetic oils over mineral is long life and resistance to oil. Synthetic oils worn more slowly than mineral oils. In addition, synthetic oils are more resistant to high temperatures. Therefore, motorcycle racing, for example, working at full load, and in some areas come into contact with engine oil temperatures may reach very high values​​, use synthetic oils.

Basically if you use your bike in a warmer country, (like mine , Israel) and you ride in the summer, 15-50 will be probably a bit better, but in normal weather conditions , it is meaningless.
Also , you may want to "warm" the engine when start it, bit more before riding if you choose a 15-50 over 10-40.

Hope I manged to explain it as simple

Hey: I had the same issue, not all the time, maybe half the times I got gas the bike wouldn't start. I tried all sorts of tests and things mentioned here. Like resetting the thottle, checking the key switch and kick stand switch, to no avail. I'm a former service manager at a MC shop.


I changed the battery and the problem went away. I have appx 20,000 miles on the bike.


My 2 cents.

Jack

well my old bmw was 10w40 but bmw changed recomendations to 15w40 and dealer just had 15w50

i will throw it in, better change more often than wrong oil. i will let have few mins warm up before ride away and chaneg more frequently.

15w50 wouldnt bother me just it winter and dam cold at moment. but few weeks time wont be an issue

as you said let it warm up bit longer before ride it

10/40 in mine

I used it all summer ... cause it was hot where i was.

well not too warm here so might pickup some10w40

Could someone tell me the correct way to wire the six wires from a tail tidy into the four available at the plug?

I had a go, but the number plate light flashes with the right indicator everything else is ok.

To be more specific, the numberplate light is on as normal but flashed off as the right indicator flashes on.


Thanks

I spend the holidays' chugging around in the desert with about 560 other riders. About 150 miles into the day I stopped for a minute and when I hit the magic button there as nothing but a click. A quick bump had the bike running again, but the battery voltage was down in the single digits. I decided to slab it the rest of the way into Barstow and watched the voltage climb back into the 13 range. Possibly the combination of low RPM, the cooling fan running constantly and the aux lights being on was more than the charging system could take.

The battery is an Odyssey PC310 from 2008 and it has held a charge well since, so I'm not sure that it has reached the end of its service life. Thoughts??

m

its fu@ked

coming up on 5 years old. Running a fan (55watts - if on all the time) and a headlight (55 watts) would not be enough to drain a battery. My experience is you need to draw 170 watts or more all day to drain the battery on an XC.

Five years on an Odyssey is maybe a little less than you hoped for back in 2008, but if it's been cycled deep, and it sounds like it has, I gotta agree with Walter that it's given its all for you. Off it goes to the battery graveyard and go get yourself a new one.

Socket sizes for front and rear axels?

I think I saw 22mm & 26mm?

Try again. Look at the link on the first page of this thread for the torque spec link.

Thanks. In a photo taken by another rider I noticed that the Touratech fog light (55 watts) was also on. I'll get another battery and an improved switch for that aux light since no matter how or where I mount it, it seems to find it's way into the 'on' position.

m

Looks to be both are 20mm with an 80nm torque spec. Correct?

Hi everybody,
As the title says Caf's rear shock (XCO) has blown (the day we are back on the road after my Ohlins was fixed!).
Does anybody know a shop that would be able to fix it? We cross into Nicaragua today heading north, NYC being the finish.

Cheers
Pete (& Caf)

Hello, fellow X-challengers!

I am looking to upgrade seat on my X-C.
Since I am from Serbia, Renaczo is out of question, and RayZ is too expencive for me, when I calculate shipping and customs.
I have secret passage from Belgrade to Touratech, so I can ship my seat to them, and back, almost free of charge, so I am thinking about Kahedo seat.
Someone have any experience with Kahedo seat on X-C? Is there any difference in shape between low, standard and high option? Biggest problem with standard seat is forward sliding, and I hope to solve that with new seat..?

That is the size of the axle, but if you want to remove them, which I believe was your original question, you will need a 26mm wrench or socket for both front and back.

I will double check when I get home and then edit this post if I am wrong so I don't look like an idiot. :)

Don't quote me, that will screw up the whole thing.

Oh that's tempting!

Thanks AZ and Drone for the pm.

Yep, I just verified it, my 26mm ring spanner fits nicely on both the front and rear axle nuts. I believe some folks buy a KTM nut which is the same thread, but uses a 27mm tool. I think you can get a cool 27mm wrench that is also a tire lever, but I am not sure if I am remembering that correctly.

And all should note that my previous post remains unedited.

yep,


http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/14/71/995/33852/ITEM/Motion-Pro-T6-Tire-Lever.aspx?SiteID=SLI|27mm%20Wrench&WT.MC_ID=10010