Hey, no worries, I've got thick skin! And I thank you for taking the time to write so much about the proper starting routine for the XRR. :cheers: Anyways, it turns out that the starting routine that you mention is the exact same routine that I use: pull in decomp, cycle the motor a few times, let out the decomp, cycle until you find the hard spot, pull in decomp and push the kicker just a hair further, and kick, all the the way down to the foot peg. It's been cold up here in these parts; about 3 degrees celcius when I ride to work in the morning. That said, I might have a look at the idle setting, although it seems to idle at an acceptible RPM. Did I mention earlier that the bike starts up super easy when warm? Rides absolutely wonderful too. LOTS of power. The guy that sold me the bike also included the specs on the jets that he put in the carb. I'll try to find them and then post them here. Hey, enjoy that warm weather you lucky SOB! Take care! JT
Interesting, I never thought to yell anything at the bike that wasn't a profanity. I'll have to try it sometime.
Fox, the bike changed altitude when you bought it, say over ~500 meters? Not impossible, just asking. If so you'll know you have to re-jet - that's the main but also, to a lesser extent, the idle-circuit too. Here's some common wisdom. On most (I almost said any, but I haven't seen them all) carbs the mixture-screw (the quality-screw that is, not the quantity-screw - but this carb doesn't have one) is set anywhere in a 3-turn range from closed - mind, full turns. As this indicates an average setting of 1.5 turn you should aim for this, let's call it the sweet spot, and indeed this is often indicated in manuals: 3 half turns! Because I am anal I will not allow more than a half-turn off that mark, unless it's a temporary setting (change of altitude say). Bear in mind that this screw is the only variable of a system consisting of a fuel-jet (idle jet) plus an air-jet which doses the air mixed with this fuel into a spray. Both jets are fixed but changeable to another size.... which means if I feel I'm too far off the "1.5 turns" I change the jets accordingly. Yes, I'll admit that the latter is a bit of 'feel', or experience, but right I will get it, and you should too. 0.5 and 2.5 turns is way too far off in my books, never mind what others (will) say, and if yours is set thereabouts then you know what you'll have to do. Good to know you've got a thick skin, because I've another thick question: you have seen the altitude-dependent jetting-table floating on the net somewhere? If memory serves me well some Tim compiled it, and it is quite close if not spot on. Find it & check against what you have?
Rather than editing I add to my above post. I hunch Fox's bike is set too rich, as this is always the easiest to do. Even with correct jetting of the idle system it's very easy to adjust completely wrong, so in addition to the above, here's what you should do to get thing as correct as you're able to: Idle the (already warm!) engine, and turn the slide-screw (the slide stopper) down until it almost dies. Then turn the mixture screw in or out until it almost dies even more - the trick is of course to keep it alive. Do this both ways (in & out), and determine what is the \middle' of these two settings.. and set it there. Chances are that the revs will increase now, so re-adjust down (with the stopper-screw of course) until it almost dies again. Repeat above. If this gives you the magic 1.5 turns from closed then the idling circuit is OK. If too far off you better change jets. Ah yes, eventually you adjust the stopper-screw up a bit to obtain the correct idling rev's - which you determine by ear rather than revcounter. Know that plenty of owner's manuals prescribe ludicrously high idling revs, I assume to allow dorks to drive/ride off too.
I have my comp stack all apart and was looking at the Borynack fork files, the part im having a question with is the two washers at the very bottom of the stack 18mm x .5mm. do these get reinstalled? if you look at the word document he photos them side by side not in line with the other shims. http://www.borynack.com/xr650r/HondaXR650Rforks.doc the first pic in that document after it says "brain surgery" in red. https://picasaweb.google.com/116293529386295452420/March14201202#5719881608594977282 Anyone have a clue on this? whether or not to reinstall the 2 18mm x .5mm washers or just start out with the 11mm x .10 mm washer?
Now that I'm adding farkles, my pig has gotten proud and takes offense when shouted at, particularly when addressed with the prefiix "m.f..ing," followed by any of the following: cob roller, hog, piggy, piglet, porker, porky, sow or swine. I've modified my starting sequence accordingly...
'03 CR250 forks resprung for a fat piggy. Eming clamps. Prolly misspelt cause we're getting "salty" at he Salty Dog in Maggie NC after crossing over the Smokeys today. I'll prolly do a build write up but not tonight!!!
Document for me doesn't show pictures and I forget what I did. There is some removal of spacers on the forks or shock. Just can't remember. I believe it was the shock though to allow for threads on the damper rod. Can you post a picture of your stack and point out the spacers?
My bike is nicknamed after a female dog because everytime it is hesitant to start I yell out "Start bitch!". At one point my friend was having a discussion about naming bikes and when I said I don't name my vehicles my friend told me that I already had a name for it because I am always yelling at it. I guess the name stuck. Another question for the guy with starting issues. Are you sure you are turning the choke the right direction? They are a bit backwards from most bikes. Down is open, up is closed.
This might sound odd, but my understanding of Mikuni carbs is that the choke circuit does not function unless the slide is almost bottomed out in the barrel. I think the the stock Keihin carb works the same. If I am having trouble getting the bike to start when very cold I back the idle screw off and give it full choke. It usually starts within 4 or 5 kicks. If I don't do this it won't always start. The reason they work this way has to do with creating a vacuum ahead of the slide and pulling fuel through the enrichening circuit. If the slide is set too high not enough vacuum is created and the mix stays too lean. Someone correct me if I am wrong. I used to be a decent Mikuni tuner on 2-smokes and it seems to work on the XRR as well. Joe
Me, usually after yelling at it calling any generic bike a bitch for not starting, is followed by about ten minutes of kicking while apologetic begging, which ultimately saves me from pushing it home. Your results may vary!
I never touch my idle on the TM-40. Choke only when quite cold. Normally two pumps of the pumper gets it fired up.
Mikunis have an enrichener whereas the stock Kehin has a real choke (obstructs the carb throat) They operate completely different. I can't comment on idle screw position, both my Kehin and the TM40 seems to react normally to being choked, when the motor is cold they both require the choke. I read some stuff on the xr400 forum about this (adj the idle for cold starts) but I have an xr400 also and it needs choked when cold. I have to think the mix is rich if no choke is required cold, ESP since my xr usally starts first kick choked cold. Many bikes are running around jetted fat on the pilot circuit and the owners don't realize it. Fuel mileage when doing an easy DS ride is a pretty good indicator, 45mpg is fairly typical and 50 isn't unheard of. Each machine is slightly different, results may vary
I can't remember and my notes are in my tool box, but try this http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/80969-anybody-do-your-own-suspension-and-care-to-share-info/
