Thanks for the update! Looks like I'll be gathering twenty dollar bills for a few weeks to buy this one.
Anyone looking for a OE XL600 cam? I have two for sale over in the flea market. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=811639 I also have other engine parts available. Ask.
Greetings guys, Picked up an '86 XL600R at the swap meet a lil while back, finally getting into it. Right off the bat PO said it needed a stator and a bit of love. Soo $110 and a new stator later and I'm doing some testing, i should point out I haven't invested in a battery yet or dug into the wiring for the lights...figured I wanted to find some spark before spending more $$. From what I understand I should have spark regardless of the presence of a battery or not.. So far: new stator, fixed ignition coil wire, tested wires for continuity with the multimeter (all good). My only problem as of right now is I still have no spark..my test lamp lights up like a Supernova on everything I test thanks to the new stator and I find that I have power going INTO the CDI unit, and out to the pulse generator etc, but NOT from the CDI to the COIL...??? bad CDI, correct?? I've bought another used CDI already, supposedly from a running bike and it checks like my old one, I plan on picking up another tonight just in case these 2 CDIs happen to be bad but is there something else I'm missing???? Someone suggested perhaps my pulsar is bad and not picking up the signal to fire? I'm pretty mechanically gifted but never messed around with many dirtbikes.. Sorry for the lengthy intro, I can post pics after tonight of the project. Any help is greatly appreciated! I can't wait to rideeeeee Tom California
I don't believe the CDI can be tested, apart from using swapnostics with a mate who has another bike in your local area. Another thing to check is the pulse generator, located in the RHS lower casing. From memory it should be 320 ohms resistance for the circuit, also check voltage output when kicking the bike over, should be around the 0.7-1.0 volt. This triggers the CDI to supply spark to the plug. Also have a look at the resistor inside the spark plug cap, or measure the combined resistance from the coil to the spark plug cap, should be around the 9K ohms. The resistor has a value of roughly 5K ohms. HTH
So I thought I'd replace the swing arm chain slider. 4 screws, right? But the thing wraps over the pivot end of the swing arm AND a little piece connecting upper and lower slider sections needs to go through the gap where the swing arm pivot bolt goes. HELP!! Is there an easy way without removing the shock (and air box, etc)? Or is that what I need to do - take shock out then remove swing arm pivot bolt? Any help from someone experienced in such things would be much appreciated.
Don't have to remove air box, unbolt swing arm and shock, move swing arm out until you can replace the slider. .
Thanks a lot. Is shock under tension or can I just take bolt out at top of it where it connects to frame? (Do I need spring compressor?) I mean, will it increase in length when I undo the bolt so that it is hard to reassemble? Edit: With Lookfar's assistance I did it, but caution to others: I bought Ebay slider for $45. It fits, but the screw holes are NOT reinforced with steel washers like the factory one is, so screws don't hold the part as it pulls over the screws when screws are tightened. I'm going to try washers under the factory screws. That will make them stick up above the level of the slider. Hopefully they will not get worn down or pulled out by the chain. If you can find one, get the factory swing arm chain slider. EDIT 7/29/12. Per factory microfiche, the metal reinforcements are an additional item sold separate from the slider. I reused the originals, which popped right out of broken original slider. However, the new aftermarket slider is softer and my initial installation stretched out the holes, so I reinstalled, using the original reinforcements underneath the slider and washers, slightly bigger than head of factory screws, under the head of the screws. Hopefully that will work.
I only removed the shock bolt that attached to the swing arm when I did mine. No it was not under tension. .
Can you clarify this? There isn't supposed to be any power going to the pulse generator. It's a variable reluctor sensor and generates an AC sine wave signal. It is the same principle as GM's HEI ignition pickup and Ford's Duraspark if you've ever played with either. The pulse generator will typically function under tested conditions when the ohms are within spec. They can test and good and function at room temp while going out of spec and causing problems at operating temp. It's not like an automotive inductive coil where the coil (+) has power all the time and the ground leg is controlled via breaker. The capacitive discharge system sends a high voltage pulse to the coil. You would need an oscilloscope to see it; voltmeters are nowhere near fast enough. Did it have any spark before the stator was replaced? Did the old stator fail an ohm test?
BUGGER!!!!!! Got bike back together this arv, only to find that the crossover tube between the two carbies has got a leaking o-ring. Oh well, guess what I am doing tomorrow.....F%&K
In case anyone needs a larger fuel tank, I posted mine in the Fleamarket. If I remember correctly it is 17 liters or approx 4.5 gallons with a locking gas cap.
How about the left crankcase cover. The tab that holds the clutch cable is partially broken on mine. Mine has the gear for the tach on the cam. Do you have to change the valve cover in order to hook one up?
I have the clutch cover with the tab. No, the cams I have don't have the gear. Yes you would as you would need the tach cable mount.
Whew, job done. After being in bits forever waiting for carby parts and other bits 'n pieces, it fired up on the third half-hearted kick. Gotta love the XL6 Just gotta get new muffler now, and I can put all my new bits on......
Nope..Effing thing, spoke too soon. Runs really well, but as soon as I lean it over to put it on the sidestand, it coughs and dies. What to the learned people here think? Float level?
I pull all of the engine mount bolts/brackets when I'm going to remove the carbs. That allows the engine to be rocked forward a little, giving a bit more room to work.
