They've done quite a few 1100 models, i've even seen RT's with carbs. You lose the oil temp guage due to the fact you don't use the motronic unit when converting to carbs and electronic ignition.
Yeah, listed some stuff. Lots of interest. :eek1 On topic...Poolside has been giving me some help on the ignition ideas. It looks like this will work for my project since I'm stripping all electrics and going back to basics: http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/EnDuraSpark_Electronic_Ignition_System_BMW_R_70_80_p/edl-ign.htm I will have to buy a couple of coils to go with it and the Shorai lithium ion battery doesn't work with this kit...glad I held off on buying a light weight battery. Edit: There is a chance that I'll use the Motronic and hack up the harness as I'm in a time crunch on this project. I have to be up and running in six weeks for testing, then off to Death Valley for a few weeks.
The stock Hall Effect sensor may work with the Euro Moto Electrics ignition controller. This would eliminate the time needed to fabricate a crank hub mounting system for their crank sensor. From looking at the datasheet and pictures it sure looks like the stock Hall Effect sensor will work. It's all about providing appropriate timing signals to the EME controller. In this context, that means two signals. One signal would occur either at TDC, or at the static BTDC advance angle. The other signal precedes the first, and occurs much earlier. Roughly calculated at TDC, minus the maximum advance angle, minus the nominal dwell angle. Anything around 35-45° BTDC will generally do the job. I put in a call to EME, they were interested in the call because they want to expand the applications for their electronic ignition. The fellow I need to talk to is out of the office today, we'll be talking tomorrow. <BR>
If you decide to use the Motronic for spark only, the O2 sensor isn't needed. I like the idea about using the cable splitter pulley to turn the TPS. Maybe connect the two with a short length of very flexible rubber hose. It will allow for any misalignment. If you don't use the Motronic, will you still use the RID? (temp, fuel, time, gear) <BR>
Back in Oakland & wanting to read more wacky larryboy engineering. oser Jim, it was good to talk to you yesterday. I'll plan ahead and let you know when I'm coming back.
Love it! I think the same way larryboy. While I appreciate how reliable an EFI system can be. I absolutely hate how untunable they are. Carbs rule! Very interested in hearing how you address the ignition and fuel delivery. bob
Fantastic!!! Just post here when you find out so everybody can learn with me!! Good to know about the O2 sensor. Ditching the RID, I can count, the fuel pump and sender are going away, look at the sun for the time...usually guess the time within 5 minutes or so, I owned a Buell...don't care about the temp of the engine. I'd rather not use the Motronic stuff if I can get around it. I've got to fast track this build, my last remaining running motorcycle has a starter crapping out.
We're working on firguring out a plan for the igntion and I'm going to weld a bung into the tank on either side at the low point and put a petcock on each side to gravity feed the carbs. The pump is coming out and a block off plate will get made. I'm taking pics and will do a build thread in 'assembly' later when I have more time.
<BR>I spoke with guys at Euro Moto Electric. They are a helpful bunch and certainly know their products. After a few minutes discussion we decided that it seems very possible their ignition box can be fitted to the R11xx bikes. Possibly some slight electrical modifications would be necessary, but they we not sure. They directed me to the designer/builder in Germany. We'll see what happens from there. <BR>
Thanks a ton for your help, Jim!! I got a reply from an email I sent earlier in this week, John is asking Volker to help too. Between all of us we might get some answers.
With the help of Poolside it looks like we're close to knowing what to do with the ignition. I really hope it works out and is close to plug-n-play as I'd like to do several of these bikes over the next few years as 1150GS prices are getting into KLR territory. Started a build thread if ya'll wanna follow along: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=16881318#post16881318
LB, Please let me know if you figure out how to lose the hyd clutch bs and go back to a cable (a la 1100gs). Thanks, Mike
I'm actually trying a small Magura clutch master to save weight, we'll see if it can move enough fluid.
My bitch is with the slave. It's a devil-possessed timebomb, apt to go off when it decides, and a double bitch to fix (personal exp.). I'm really enjoying your build. Mike
Hmm, maybe I will look into what you mentioned? This Magura is meant to pull a cable actuator. I'll look into it and put it in the build thread if it's possible to convert. Thanks for the tip!! Looked at the fiche for both bikes and it doesn't look possible to go back to a cable to me. New clutch slave is $100, I think I'll add one to the road spares kit.
