rear sprocket bearing $89.00 !!!! (05 640 Adv)

the avatar is three guys !!! it is from the comedy series Little Britain on BBC America
watch it it is some funny shit
http://www.bbc.co.uk/comedy/littlebritain/characters/bubbles.shtml

Is the above "but it has the same# 6205" coming from your reading of the fiche or from the actual removed OEM bearings. I can only guess the later as the fiche is quite clear on the difference.

As far as I understand it ... the KTM/OEM bearings are made by FAG and -2RSR is just their equivalent of -2RS.

The wheel bearings (Qty: 2) are FAG 6205 2RSRC3. The C3 is important. I believe it specifies the clearance inside the bearing, for a press fit, it's important to get it correct else the bearing could be too tight. It may well be the default though.

The sprocket support bearing is FAG 3205.B.2RSR. The middle B is I believe the contact angle of the races but I think B is the standard. 3205 is the European equivalent of a US 5205.

So a 5205-2RS should fit the sprocket support and 6205-2RS will fit the wheels with the caveat about the C3 internal clearance.

Someone feel free to correct me if I'm incorrect on any of this.

I usually get KBC (korean) wheel bearings which are a good price/quality compramise vs the more expensive Japanese bearings and the maybe dubious Chinese bearings (though I think bearings are such a commodity item these days that the poor Chinese quality is more of a historical artifact). $5 each for a 6205-2RS. The sprocket support 5205-2RS is harder, KBC doesn't make double row and the prices seems to vary wildly depending where you look (CBR has them for $24.00, Japanese KYK brand but their $15.00 price for each 6205 wheel bearing is expensive).

It is amazing that the complete sprocket support (with bearing) is less than the cost of the replacement bearing (via KTM).

Tony

I just looked it up, the 5205 is a Double Row Angular Contact bearing,... Bore 25mm, OD 52 mm, width 20.6 mm.
It has a static load rating of 3,280 lbs, vs 1,750 lbs for a single row (6205)
Bore and OD are the same, width is wider on the 5205 to accomodate the second row of balls.
It was likely spec'd with this as the torque on the sprocket could tear up a single row in a hurry, especially with a floating rubber carrier.
I would get a rubber seal on both sides, if available.
The "C" numbers with respect the the 6000 series of bearings, indicates internal clearance differences. They assort them at the factory as they are measured, as some industry will demand certain clearance.
A C3 is catagorized as "standard" clearance. That number would not be important for this application.

LOL, the answer was in the 3rd post. That's where I got mine a while back for $42.

http://www.stenhouseracing.com/
http://stenhouseracing.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2&zenid=ea0edbea188c243a902671def45cde87

Bentspoke. And this spec (for the 5205-2RS) is functionally the same as the Euro 3205.B.2RSR. I believe I'm correct on the 'B' designation being the standard/default and therefore not particularly important.

I went to a local bearing house and got one for about $35 IIRC. I don't think it was much over $80 or $90 for all of the rear wheel bearings

When you get the new one pop a seal off one side with a small screwdriver and pack the crap out of it with your favorite waterproof grease. That is a dirtbike trick to help seal out the water and crap.

My book shows a A as a Conrad in the 500 series, so that would mean default.
The B is listed as 40deg contact angle. It looks like the A's have a 30 deg contact angle. They may only make most of them one way or the other so those internal dimensions probably do not matter on the user end.
Many comapanies drop or change the first digit, adopting the somewhat universal series number of the second, and bore code of the last 2.
Multiply the last 2 digits times 5, that gives you the bore. That X5 formula works for most bearings in the 5000 and 6000 series. 6003 and below it does not apply.

thanks for the reminder!

yeah! this looks like it will help 'shit' the bearings...


and so does this!

In case this helps anyone else I just replaced mine. I stumbled across Pacific NW Bearing (just down the road from me in Springfield Oregon).


<tt><tt>2x KBC 6205-2RS $3.72 each
</tt></tt><tt><tt>1x SMT 5205-2RS $13.84 each</tt></tt>
<tt><tt>1x seal 32x52x7 B $3.50 each

</tt></tt><tt><tt>shipping: $4.05</tt></tt>: total $<tt><tt>28.83.
</tt></tt>Can't recommend the owner, Steve Stormont enough, answered lots of e-mails. KBC is korean, I've used them on many bikes. SMT is Japanese.

You've installed them and you are good to go? And which bike do you have (model/year... there is some variance)?

I have a 2004 SXC but the wheel in question is a cush 2001 LC4e. Yes
good to go. It's all standard stuff. Plenty of people have used <tt><tt>5205-ZZ
and posted about it, no rocket science. </tt></tt>

Is the sprocket carrier bearing the same OD as the 6205 wheel bearings... 52mm? (bike's not handy to check).

I can't get a 3205 or 5205 here. Can get a 4205 though: 25x52x18. [edit]4205 is wrong, see later post.[/edit]

Ta

The bearing CAN be sourced from bearing suppliers. Here in Australia the bearing suppliers unit is half price of what KTM are asking. Mine collapsed somewhere between 36k and 40k (and took the chain with it ). Not a cheap exercise that one. The bike still rode fine, funnily.

[edit]
WRONG!!! The bearing is actually 25x52x20.6 (angular contact ball bearing, double row, seals on both sides)... likely an SKF "3205 A-2RS1/MT33", should be available, will check on Monday.

The product lists I was reading previously did not include the angular contact bearings.

It is NOT an SKF 4205 ATN9, a deep groove ball bearing double row
[/edit]

So it looks like the first digit of the code can vary depending on the market/supplier, as someone alluded to earlier. In this instance, it could be a 3205, 5205 or 6205 !!!

no!!!!! bearings come pre packed with a sufficient amount of grease. packing in a whole whack more could cause an overheating condition and failure. you may get lucky and heat the bearing up resulting in liquid grease pouring out... but the result will be similar... no grease... you will likely have a failure.

To get good high speed bearings try an independent alternator rebuilder. Even small shops like mine have over 100 #'s in stock. Most cost $3-$8.
I have never seen a wheel bearing # I didn't stock.

http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(q...oductdetails.aspx?sku=80351&source=GoogleBase

or maybe it was thiswill check the specific tube when I get home).

http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(qlqwagawswlktjar4spw3145)/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=1000003632

'02 640 Adventure
Guys, I am an idiot but I pulled my sprocket carrier bearing cause it was running rough, after I knocked it out(propane torch to heat gently), I washed it out after popping the seals and then packed the piss out of it(basically filled it full, left some small room for expansion) with the above grease(I packed every other bearing on the bike with this same grease, swing arm, steering head, all wheel bearings-front and rear wheels, pivot, etc.) I even put some under the front fork trash seals ala Creeper...then I rode the bike to Seattle, shipped it to Russia rode to Mongolia(Gobi desert for two weeks, temps around 110F.) and then to Europe. Around 10K miles was gravel sand dirt.

My sprocket carrier bearing still runs rough, I plan to repack it this winter. For now, still the same grease.
When I left for Seattle miles were 14K, now 35K or more.
You will not liquify this grease, it is designed for disc brakes running hot.
Pop the seals with a pocket knife. Just do it.
b

Ok, an update.

KTM specifies a 3205B-2RSR. The one in my bike is one of those (I think, the top half of the writing is rubbed off) but it also has "6205 RSR" in big letters on the bearing seal.

FAG/INA do a 3205-B-2RSR-TVH. Talking to my SKF chap, he says SKF are replacing all the "B" series with "A"s, only very minor differences between the two. So the SKF equivalent is 3205 A-2RS1, A for Angular contact.


If I was in the USofA I'd just buy them from Stenhouse Racing...

This friggin question won't die, to my mind only FAG makes the correct bearing, I bought a spare to carry just for that reason...when I checked with Colin@Stenhouse he was not selling the FAG bearing.
Maybe he is now.
b