the DR650 thread

Looks like Richard Simmons is waiting for something........

I thought a unitard was a unicycle w/ a 17' Excel wheel.......

Lol. It is now. Whatever you do, don't google image "unitard". Trust me, it ain't pretty.

MJ 140
PJ 42.5

Sweet I will check it now.

Thanks ER70S-2

Sweet i will check that and ADV Grifter info.

I will let you all know what it is.

B

A picture is worth a thousand words

This was my first weekend ride with the Lynx. I was working the dirt pile. Took a harder route up and blew my line. That vertical drop looked 8' high. :eek1 Probably 3' maybe 4'. Launched off the bike as the front wheel hit and the bike flopped over. Notice the fresh dirt at the lip and the heated jacket cord stretched out. Those are my entry and exit lines I can be so a goof sometimes but I refuse to quit trying. I scattered the windscreen and broke one HDB mirror. Note to self" fold the mirrors in when off road". My little pinky is still a little sore but no real fowl. I really expected to find cracks in the fairing. None found. Took miles for dirt to quit flying in my face. The lamps were planted in that relatively soft dirt.
The fairing I bought was for a DR400 so I had to modify the dash to attach to my upper tree/clamp. I am a little nervous with the single lower mounting bolt but it has done well.
As far as worried about smacking the fairing on a forward dismount......I hope I never find out. Anything up in front over the bars would not be friendly. I have my GPS mounted up high and it does bother me from a safety aspect. I think the ease of viewing it and keeping my eyes closer to the road is worth the tradeoff.

Aaaaand you just sold me on it. Thanks for the info!

[QUOTE
...of course it vas a 450lb panzervagen vich is vhy I now own ze 300lb DR..[/QUOTE]


A 300 lb DR???????????????. We wish.

A way to improve the wide-ratio gaps is with a carb that lets the DR pull smoother at lower RPMs.

A bold statement from a guy named DockingPilot....


Sorry, man - had to do it.

I am lurking here checking out the big DRs --dig 'em with the 19/17 combo...but that grabbed my attention. The other day, I was talking stanky boots with the salesman at REI...and he suggested to dissolve a handful of generic brand denture cleaner tablets in a bucket of water together with the boots...might help and if not you won't have any plaque on your boots, right?

Hmmmm, never felt I had a need. But if that would be one of the bennies, maybe the CV really does suck and I don't know it yet. :huh
I've always been a short shifter too.

:huh

I just peed a little.

:eek1

Lol. Your excused and well played. I honestly didnt mean to insult anyone. Lol

Sent from my SCH-I800 using Tapatalk

I went out to my dr today to find a load of fork oil dripping on my wheel, tire and floor from the right fork... Guess its time to do the seals. My question is: are the seals simple to replace? I want to do the seals springs and oil, not going to do any valves. Do I have to loosen that large nut on the bottom, or is that not needed for pulling the fork apart? From what I understand, All that I have to do is open the top cap, drain the oil, pull the spring, pull the fork apart, pull old seals, install new seals, put fork back together, new springs, new oil, top cap, and ride.

Please help me! I want to get this done right away as its finally starting to warm up!!! Thanks in advance everybody!

I started to watch that video, but isn't that fork a little more complex than the ones on our dr?

Have you tried cleaning out the seal? I've used a pc of old film negative to hook out debris a couple of times. I am at about the point where I need to change the seals but so far, the film thing is working pretty good. Good luck.

My # 30 fuse on the right hand under side cover is blown and keeps blowing after i think i found an issue i replace with another 30 and try the ignition again. Pop its gone.

I will drop the rise to 2" now. But still cant find the issue.

There is two unconnected plugs under the seat going forward towards the front of the bike right after the the battery chamber pretty much under the filtered air hose that sits at the battery level. I have to move it aside to get to these two connectors. I don't see any possibility how these would of been unplugged by my rise set up.. There is a white connector and a black connector and a green that is looped with connectors on top of it. The green is connected to green but has connectors on the top of it also. but the white nor the black connectors will plug into it. So i don't think these are the issue.

I don't see any open wires or pinches. No kinks against the head stop. Cant sleep going over and over in my mind what the hell did i do...ugggghhh.
I have checked everything you all have told me but will go over it again tomorrow. Thanks for all your help!!
Boulder

In theory if you can pick the seals out you don't need to disasemble conventional forks. But, that's easier said than done. IMO
I don't do that.

The DR forks are real easy to work on as its just the one bolt on the bottom. Providing you have the right tool. You need a 30mm (I think) hex head on a longish extension to hold the internals whilst you undo the bolt.
I just welded a nut onto an old socket.

The first time it seems daunting but go for it, easy as.