Those are ice studs and work well for that, not so good on the trails. Trail studs are more of a spike. Only issue with removing the studs is I'd expect that tire to wear quickly. Might as well do it though unless you plan on re-using it for next winter.
Well I made it through my overnight trip to the Columbia Icefield - glad I did it, although it was a bit more challenging than I thought it would be. 734 to Nordegg took much longer than I expected; a lot of it was deep/fresh gravel that I just couldn't get the speed up on with the bike fully loaded, had to slow down to 50 kph in some areas, especially blind curves. Where there was a tire line I could get over 100, but overall that leg took 1-2 hours longer than I had figured. Got gas in Nordegg and had a good chat with a "real" Harley rider, cool guy, I was surprised that he liked the 950 Adventure so much. Scenic run in to Jasper National Park, but it was getting pretty cold by the time I got to the Icefield Campground, which was really nice, I got a site right next to the stream. All my gear worked well, even the freeze dried Stroganoff wasn't too bad. Up at 7 am to pack up as the snow was falling, making it a bit harder to get everything to fit compared to in my garage. A bit of ice heading home and I know now I need better heated grips in the 0-4 degree range. Beautiful weather once I got to lower altitudes. Ready for Alaska in 2014! 734 got pretty deserted at times... Riding in to Jasper National Park Made it! Lycan, did you make it all the way through on 532?
Nice pictures! Tip for traveling. If you have to spend time packing things *just* right to make it fit, you either need to improve your system or pack less stuff. It will save a ton of stress in the future.
Seems that this is what I'm looking for. U think a box of 250 pieces will get me through the winter? Only need to do two tires... :-D Besides that, what is the cheapest rear knobbly which is still road legal (my rear is a bit worn, so it might not take a 1/2" stud without dmaaging the tube...), and sort of acceptable quality? My immigration process didn't get me past that yet, neither where to order tires online for a good price or whether there is a good shop for that? I'll mount them myself.
Thanks! Yeah, part of the goal of this trip was to figure out in practice what's necessary and what I really don't need. Cut some things off the list. But a big thing for me is how ready for repairs to be. My first tool kit weighed 17 pounds! I do all my mechanic work myself and like to be able to rebuild major components by the road side. But perhaps that is just not realistic. And things like, is it better to carry two spare tubes, or just a repair kit...all part of the learning process for planning trips.
A tip learned in Mexico, used in Ecuador and Argentina, now brought to you here: Don't bother with carrying tubes or a patch kit. A few wraps of electrical tape will last well over 2 weeks. That's enough time to find a shop to buy a replacement. A roll is smaller than tubes, takes up less space than a patch kit and is useful for other things. Also, don't carry tools in your panniers. Build something for around skid plate. Your subframe will thank you.
Great tips, thanks! I never thought of electrical tape - considering that I never leave home without it anyway, sounds like a perfect temporary solution!
I've had great success with the Mefo Super Explorer. Most tires are done in 1000K on my 990 Adventure, but I can get 7-8K HARD use out of these and they provide good off-road traction. On a smaller bike they'll last forever.
And things like, is it better to carry two spare tubes, or just a repair kit...all part of the learning process for planning trips.[/QUOTE] Depending on the length if the trip and the terrain you'll be on, but I usually carry a spare front tube(can use it for rear as well if necessary) and a patch kit rather than 2 tubes. Extra glue and patches in the kit. Shale and cactuses can punch a tone of holes. And I never air down so as to prevent unnecessary pinch flats. I've had a tube completely shredded and patches or tape alone aren't gonna help at all.
Also, you aint fixing anything on the side of the road that needs parts you don't have. A tool kit should still remain small and relatively light weight. Find tools that are smaller and lighter. You can spend big bucks if you want for titanium stuff, but there are alternatives that are plenty good enough for cheap. (ProPoint makes a slick little ratchet wrench that works to be both a screw driver and socket wrench in one. It's like 20$. Their universal bits, although not ideal for not stripping bolts, are super light and small) Normal bolts shouldn't be an issue. Get combo axle wrench / tire spoon levers. (Motion pro makes ultra light ones I want, but they shipped the wrong ones prior to my trip and I sold to a friend. I just use my steel ones around here but next trip I'll have them.) I've never tried electrical tape, but I had a standard duty tube and patch kit. I used the patch kit numerous times, and once the tube. Electrical tape won't fix a gash in the tube. Last resort is stuffing things in your tire =) Also a front tube fits and works in a rear tire for temp use. For gear, size can be reduced and weight, but I calculated it out to being around 300$/lb savings. Pick how much you want to lose. That being said you shouldn't have more than 60-70 liters of stuff. Ditch the rest. If cooking your own food you might have a bit more. Considering ditching that idea too. Packing light and small is key. You'll hate life if you dont and if you don't you won't realize how nice it is to be packed light. Everything is quicker and easier. Most times you don't need the stuff you didn't bring. For a sleeping pad check out the new NeoAir. Ultra light, ultra warm, and reasonably affordable (especially considering alternatives). It's on my wish list. I used the UL7.5 and froze my ass most nights with a +5 bag. Lessons learnt.
+1000 Part of the fun of breaking down is getting the thing to a workshop with the few select tools you have got, or just get towed by your mate, and fix the thing with their tools if they let you. Most non-western workshops will think you're some flushed with cash noob, so the surprise on their faces when you get stuck in and dirty is priceless. Plus you can learn a lot in bush mechanics, which is priceless information, and make friends in the process. I like to use socket adapters for use with hex wrenches myself. Saves taking a ratchet. The biggest weight in any leverage tool is the stem so it makes sense to use what you already have. The tire irons with a motionpro adapter is for the torque. Terra X makes dedicated trail tools which are strong and compact. http://terra-x.com.au/ A lighter option for mats are peak elite mats. I prefer vertical baffles. Like exped this company makes the outside ones bigger for both warmth and comfort. http://hyaliteequipment.com/sleeping-pads/view/peak-elite-ac-peac
That, I'm not sure about... It works really well as a temp solution. The only way to know would be to try it. Obviously not a trial on a trip, but a more controlled environment. If I get some time and a box of beer, I'll cut a tube. Let's say a 2" cut, tape it and we'll see if it holds up.
I'm surprised, I thought the UL7 looked good. Crazy how much these things cost, considering what you get. Right now I have a Thermorest for backpacking. It's OK but not super small They certainly have some nice tools! I have a pretty big tool collection, but maybe I should invest in a bike only kit. I actually have quite a bit of bush wrenching experience; it is part of the adventure for sure. I suppose I've had drilled into me the more prepared you are going into a situation, the higher chance for success. Had to fix a busted U joint on a skidder once, in deep mud, driving rain, 100 miles in to a site with open water access only. Got to have a Zen approach to stuff like that! But yeah, time to let go of my 18" flex head 1/2' drive ratchet I guess!
I think I'll try one too...btw you were faster PM'ing than me for the tires, and snagged the loot! You've run these for a while? I think I saw you on your b/w bike last year when I was still riding my XRR. You were flying down the south FTR and I though damn, that is some serious speed on gravel. The rears are good in the loose stuff?
I'm on my second Mefo rear. It's the only one I get any mileage out of. That may have been me. I think I'm the only B/W 990 around with no orange anywhere. That tire is the best durability/traction combo I've found. The 908 is far better grip, but I only managed around 1K on the last one.
This is great advice, but seldom followed. As dual sports become gargantuan Nimitz-class touring bikes, so does the luggage that gets attached to them. Those massive hard cases hanging off each side are just begging to be packed to the rim. I think the way to go on this is to toss the hard luggage and replace it with a Giant Loop bag. That will be my MO when I hit the road for a long multi-month trip.
Look at the R rating of the mat. It matters huge, even in warmer climates. A good mat lasts for a long time. My Thermorest Prolite (which I take on trips when I have room and camp on regularly) is 15 years old and still perfect. I hope to get the NeoAir as it's transformed the light market with keeping a very high R value and remain around 1-1.5lbs and pretty small. My UL7.5 was around 100$ weighs less than a lb, very small rolled up (Size of a Monster can), but has a R value of like .2. It's also got a small leak because of cactus... Same goes for tools. When you work on the bike, note down which tools you used. Better yet, after spring tear down and rebuilt, write down all the tools you used. Then start limited what you won't or can't use on the side of the trail. Then when you have your "must haves", search out smaller and lighter alternatives. Most of my tools fit in half a zip lock bag. This doesn't include extras, spares, etc but all the screw drivers, sockets, wrenches, (except tire irons), thread locker, valve feeler guages (I do it every 4,000kms), extra valve stems, some wire, electric wire, very small retractable razor, etc) Tape Gorilla tape around your front fork tube or frame somewhere and forget the roll. Gorilla tape can't be compared to Duct tape. Leave that crap at home. Limit clothes. Thermal layers can be shirts, use layers, not additional jackets / clothes. Ultralight synthetics or downs make geat layers that pack into the ~ size of a closed fist (those without sausage fingers). Use smaller bottles for toiletries, etc. I've even contemplating leaving underwear at home... that's yet to be tested. Packing can be fun when you have goals of light and small. It takes time to figure things out. Not sure what or if you are packing a computer, but I suggest leaving it at home. I took one on my trip (Macbook Pro) and although I used it quite a bit, it was both expensive (got damaged), space consuming, a constant worry of being stolen, and without need. Cell phones can replace most things computers can do. Memory cards are smaller than computers. Note book (on phone) can be a journal for memories / ride reports once you get back. Wire bike for power. Have GPS and cell phone charger at minimum. Using batteries is wasteful and expensive. Your ultimate goal is to pack light and small, but also to have room for optional stuff like snacks, food, beer, etc. Having a few liters of "give" is a godsent when needed.
