Same here. I suspect the dealer just filled far enough to get the gauge to register full. Several miles off the lot the first bar on the guage disappeared. No issue with mileage from second tank on. Right around 70 mpg each fill up. Over 1500 miles now on the odometer. I fill up when the last bar starts flashing. At that point usually takes about 1.4 gallon to fill up.
Might I ask what you owners are paying for this motorcycle out the door? They will certainly be more where I live, and the only Honda dealer on the island is 125 miles away. I am thinking of this bike along with the Yamaha XT250 and TW200, and I see that Suzuki is making the DR200 again also.
8mm to get the front sprocket cover off, 10mm to get the front sprocket off and 10 and 12mm for the chain adjusters. The rear axle itself is 19mm and I believe the lock nut is 22 or 23mm, it's a size I don't have so I use and adjustable. Most of this will have been included in the tool kit, except of course the sockets.
Remove the axle adjuster bolts from the swingarm and give them a good coat of antisieze. Do it now, rather than later or you will pay the price.
I came up with all the sockets/wrenches except for the rear axle nut. Went to the parts store.....they didn't have a 23mm socket but had the 24mm. I brought it home and the 24mm seemed really sloppy on the nut......so I decided it must be a 23 mm. Took it back and ordered the 23mm.....it will be in tomorrow....hmmmm. I may be looking for another 24mm socket now!
My Craftsman 24mm fits right...I've used it changing the front and rear sprocket as well as putting new shoes on my baby...
Fellow CRFL owners... I don't know about you but the one thing I really hated on this bike (and most bikes for that matter) was the ridiculously huge and fugly rear tailight and plate holder assembly. I had to do something about it, so I finally got around to installing the DRC edge2 smoked tailight assembly. This one is actually for the KLX250s because they do not yet have one for our bike and probably wont for a year since they are in Japan... This was not a plug and play install. If you are not mechanically inclined I would highly suggest against trying this install. As a young kid I worked as a metal fabricator, electrician, etc... so this was right up my alley. ... I started by removing all the old crap and then figured out where to drill the new holes in the DRC unit so that everything lined up nicely witht he stock rear fender. I wanted it to look as stock as possible, almost like honda put it there themselves. The above shot gives a good idea of where it lined up best for the finished product. Next I had to buy longer m8 and m6 bolts and then played with washers to angle the plate so that it tucked up tightly under the rear fender. After a lot of trial and error, I liked the position and then moved on to wiring. The below picture shows the wiring and the washers used to shim the plate to that it sit perfectly under the fender. If you decide to do this I would highly suggest soldering and heatshrinking the connections, and DO NOT cut into the bikes main harness!!!! only cut into the small sub harness that is connected to the tailight. If you want to go back to stock it is a simple procedure. After that it is a matter of cleaning up the wiring and then closing in the gaping hole left in the fender liner. For this I used a sheet of .060" black kydex. When heated, kydex becomes extremely pliable and was perfect for making a covering plate. It almost looks stock from a distance. Note: I did trim a little bit of the fender plastic that stuck out jaggedly on the corners to make the kydex cover plate easier to form and less complex. Sorry for the crappy pics but I am no photographer. just trying to show yall that it is possible and how I did it. The rest is just screwing the kydex plate to the fender liner and to the DRC taillight. I also used 3m double sided foam tape to seal it all from water penetration. I also used a strip of .5"x.5" foam door insulation to seal inbetween the fender and the top of the DRC tail light. It will be very hard for water to get into the fender now. The finished product... I think it came out pretty well. Side note: I would highly suggest this DRC tailight as apposed to some of the others on the market. It is a bit more expensive but WAAAAYYYY better quality that acerbis, polini, etc... I have tried them all on past bikes and they are all junk and fall apart quickly. These are available from wheeling cycle supply in WV.
Second that drc kit is awsome used on Wr250r and now crf250l good quality stuff I can only add that if ya go to led front blinkers too like I did your gonna need resistors to make signals work
Thanks. I forgot mention... The blinkers were removed and left off on purpose. I ride in the woods a lot and in pa they are not required if you use hand signals. Less crap to break off and it helps to clean the bike up even more. One more note: 12 o'clock labs makes a sweet integrated led panel for this taillight that is not cheap but is amazing. It does a flutter flash during breaking and also has integrated amber LEDs so that you can have integrated turn signals. Google it.
So you like spending exorbitant prices for marginally better products? Haha just kidding... I like the WR...And yes pellet stoves are the tits. I havnt used oil in 3 years.
The guy who stole my CRFL has posted it on craigslist, information and his phone number here: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=836104
I see AXP of France has the new skid plate for the 250L on it's website now. I like the looks of that plate.....wish I could purchase one here. Any word if they'll be available in the U.S. through some distributors? I sent them a message using the contact form on their website. I'll see if I hear anything back from them.....
Keep us posted if you hear anything back. I'd be interested in getting one if they become available in the U.S.
