I also have a 3000. I run a flex-shaft attachment on mine. I think it makes fine detail work easier. http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Attachments/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=225-01
I don't know if you have to remove the rear brake pedal to remove the clutch cover. However, I decided it was best to remove the rear brake pedal. P.S. Have fun with the cotter pins. :huh Spud
When having to remove the clutch cover I leave the pedal in place but I remove both the brake pedal and brake light switch springs along with the master cylinder bolts. This way you can depress the pedal to get the clearance you need to remove the clutch cover. Am I going to tell all of you guys ALL of my secrets ???
Thank you, Red. I looked online at AutoZone and O'Reilly, but I can't find that flasher anywhere. Do you remember approximately how much it cost? Spud
I dont... I bought it several years ago when I was fighting with my blinkers. I ended up with several different flashers. I think any turn signal flasher would work.
Thanks Steve. I was thinking about trying that so I didn't have to remove the pins. Anything I need to watch out for when removing that oil line above the filter cover?
Can you link the relay too? This sounds like a great idea. I wanted to run them off of something switched, but worried that the additional draw from the warmers would blow a fuse. The relay sounds perfect.
Thank you, Red. I think this electronic flasher will work well; it only costs $9.49. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NF_HD12_0335211065 I analyzed the DPCO switch cirucuit, with the help of an electrical engineer. The Tusk Heated Grip Kit consumes about 9.0 watts per grip on low setting, with the resistor consuming about 7.2 watts. The high setting consumes about 17.8 watts per grip. Therefore, the low setting generates about 1/2 the heat of the high setting, and wastes 7.2 watts from the resistor. The DPCO switch circuit consumes about 4.42 watts per grip on the low setting, which is about 1/2 the heat generated by the Tusk setup on low heat, and 1/4 the heat generated by the high setting. Therefore, I won't be using the DPCO switch. I think I am going to follow your example, and install an electronic relay. The LED dimmer is very nice, and inexpensive; however, it's just too large for me. :huh Spud
I'm not sure I understand your question. I'll do my best to answer what I think you are asking. If I am way off... let me know. The power to the heater runs through the relay. The relay is also wired to the dash light wire which is only hot when the key is on. If the key is not on, there is no juice flowing to the grip heaters.
You may have to remove the mid pipe bolt to have enough movement for the clutch cover to come off. Remove the top banjo bolt and the pipe will be plenty loose. Be sure to keep track of the copper crush washers and which banjo bolt goes where. IIRC the black banjo bolt is on the bottom. It has a larger hole/passageway.
I think I figured it out. I was not sure which relay to use, but it looks like I can use a 4 pin single pole.
+1 You need to remove the small bolt that holds the oil pipe to the head also. Leave the mid pipe bolt and pull the cover off about 1/2" to get the room to remove the lower banjo bolt completely from under the exhaust. Assemble in reverse of dissasembly. Remove the brake lever to have clear access, clean and grease the petal shaft upon re-assembly. I am sure you have read about the O ring on the oil tube and the crank end seal.
That's a beautiful diagram, Red. I found this heavy-duty, electronic flasher at NAPA; it only costs $9.49. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NF_HD12_0335211065 Spud
Thanks! I'll have a look at the 3000. That was one of the reasons I didn't bite the bullet yet. I had read some not so good reviews on the 4000. Here is the one I got... http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...l-Flasher/_/N-9cjef?itemIdentifier=69839_0_0_ I also have one of those DPCO switches. Hmmm... I'm in the middle of installing them and am having an issue with the way I ran the wiring. I have a PM to ThumpnRed. Ah! I've got mail!
We'll eventually wear you down. Nice work Thumpnred! OK, I just got mine wired up just like you have on the diagram. The issue I have is...the flasher clicks when the switch is on the "lo" setting and is quiet on the "hi" setting. :huh Shouldn't it be the reverse of what's happening? Why is that?
Don't do it. I analyzed the circuits. The DPCO switch circuit consumes about 4.42 watts per grip on the low setting, which is about 1/2 the heat generated by the Tusk setup on low heat, and 1/4 the heat generated by the high setting. Therefore, I won't be using the DPCO switch. I am going to install an electronic relay. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NF_HD12_0335211065 The LED dimmer is very nice, and inexpensive; however, it's just too large for me. :huh Spud
You got it right. The flasher sends power about half the time to the grip heaters when the switch is on the "low" setting. On the "high" setting, the wiring bypasses the flasher and sends full power to the grip heaters. Spud
