Keihin FCR review on a SE 950

I'm going to play with them again and see if I can get them right. The choke thing had me worried too, 7-8 tries I'd guess yesterday to light it, which probably drained the Shorai enought that 15 minutes later it was dead. If it wasn't so hard to start maybe the battery would have gotten me home?

Do you recall where you had the floats set? When you set the slides did you use a feeler guage or tiny drill bit? I doubt I can do much worse than H2W's JD jet kit mix. Did you happen to post up your settings or a process of how you dialed them in?

Thanks

I have my 39's in and just completed a rally. Early morning temperatures for the 4 days were was about 3 degree celcius = 37f. The altitude was 1340 meters. When I arrived I needed to turn the idle up slightly.

For the coldest morning, two pumps and it farted and died. Another 2, the same. Then I held in the starter and after about 3 seconds the one cylinder started to catch and after about 6 seconds it was running on its own.

Just out of curiosity, I let it run for maybe 10 more seconds then turned it off. It fired right up, no hesitation. I have found that even when slightly warm, it starts instantly.

For the other mornings, I had very little trouble starting it. I still haven't found a sequence to what works best. I have been experimenting with a combination of a few pumps and prolonged starter motor. The most pumps I gave were 6 and that didn't seem to help much.

My settings for my Adventure with a 08 990 Super Duke engine are;

Elevation @ home = sea level.


Front Cylinder:
Main #140
Pilot # 52
Needle Second groove from the bottom
Pilot Screw 1.25 turns out
Float Height 15mm

Rear Cylinder same as front, but main #142.

Thanks for the settings, I'll be back in the bike this week to adjust/troubleshoot.

9 ºC = 48.2 ºF mornings in south australia were i am.

8 pumps & 3 goes it fires on one cylinder then 2nd cuts in. just normal use on the starter button.

i'm about 35.5 above sea level was 2 1/2 turns out had a flat spot (now 2 turns out seems ok) thinking trying another 1/4 of a turn for curiosity. but waiting for my filter skins to arrive first.

So I finally had a bit of time to work and test this pig. I reset the floats and went a little too far. Now she runs lean on top, . THe few bumps I could hit under braking suggest the stalling MAY be remedied but I need to get more gas in there while not allowing so much it splashes and floods her dead.

Anyone have an actual spec on the float heights for the FCRS on the 950???

And, on top of my off road stalling I have just found my RR has pissed the bed, new Ricks on the way. Wonder how long that has been going bad? Till that arrives not much point in trying to ride her, the battery is stone dead in 15 minutes of riding and if it does stall off road, I'm stuck.

More in a week or so I guess.

Where is the cricket smilie? Close enough!

I went back in and went from 16mm float height measured from the bowl sealing surface to the point the needle closes. It had been at 16mm-ish where I had the upper RPM lean out. It hits the limiter again with full power. I charged the battery and only did a few runs up the street spinning the Teraflex! :eek1 Back on the charger again!

Now I must wait for the RR to get it in the woods and check for the stalling, fingers crossed!

specs say 9mm

I wish I had measured them as delivered now!

I'm pretty sure they were close to 9mm before and they were stalling like crazy diving into corners off road. They were definetly higher than they are now. I now know 16mm is too low. If it doesn't stall at 12, it'll stay there. I'll move 1mm at a time now if I have to go to less fuel again.

Thanks!

I'm just getting mine on now but one thing I found after setting the floats per spec is my rear cylinder wasn't getting fuel from the accelerator pump. They went back to Sudco twice and they reported no problems but finally suggested that I tweak the rear float level. I didn't measure it but I just set it for a higher level and now finally I have both pumps working in tandem and it's starting easier.

Wondering if maybe others are having a similar issue since I'm hearing a lot of "It started running on one cylinder..." about starting. Just a thought.

Gregor

Not an ideal solution but a technique I saw many moons ago. Aerosol can of easy start, a tube into air box of a xr600 with a cap.

I just had her in the woods and did a few dozen brake slides into corners off of fast WOT straights, NO STALLS!!!

Next to cure the off idle lag it has for a few hundred RPMs in the basement and smooth out the hit after it. H2W says a JD kit cures it and I'll do that mod next. For now I figured out how to ride around it, man this thing rips now! I need to get it in the deep SNJ sand!

So, ran her hard in the deep NJ sand today. Not impressed again. I got these to cure the CV stalling in whoops, but, while better, they still get sloppy in deep, nasty whoops while skimming. Everytime it took a hard hit it would drop power causing the bike to drag, start skidding and swapping. Ridden at 60-70% it is fine. Start bottoming the suspension and all bets are off.

Another SE rider with FCRs was having the same symptoms. I have a vac FP, he a facet so that didn't seem to matter.

Street use they rock. At a DS pace they are great, race pace in turns the bike explodes out like a missle but wick it up in whoops and they flubber.

So, anyone using a FPR with FCRs?

I too was surprised when it did it to me the first time. They are better than the CV's but like you say, still do act up.

I'm wondering what the actual cause is? Is it the high G's that cause the floats to sit lower and so stay open thus causing the overly rich running?

It seems to me that whoops cause it to run very rich. I had a guy behind me once who thought my bike had caught fire, when the bike finally stalled flames were coming out the exhausts.

have any of you guys tried lowering the float level??????

cheers, Bill..

don't know much about them but Would the R&D power II bowls help or the Power Pump II ?

have you had a chat with Eddie Sisneros on thumperTalk
http://www.thumpertalk.com/user/5904-eddie-sisneros/
he is a guru for the FCR's & in the past found him very helpful. it never hurts to ask.

My floats are as low as I dare to run them at this point. I'm thinking the slant and depth of the bowls is the cause too. My MX FCRs never miss a beat.

I wonder if there is a way to build a spring loaded needle and seat...kinda like the Holley Carbs when used for off-road

http://www.holley.com/6-513.asp

I think it needs a fully baffled bowl.

Mine is either gonna sell or be retired into DS/street use only. I may have to weld on the passenger pegs to keep myself from trying to race it in the future but I'm really committed to ending my last few semi fast years of racing on a proper small bike.

Maybe you could do a 990 injection swap!

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!

I could never after blasting Crankshaft about his FI exploits!