Did some KLR'ed farkles to the XRR today. Been thinking of an easy, affective way to help support the rear subframe. I got to looking and saw a solution: It might work good. I will defintely help! I did have to mod the bottom of the seat alittle but nothing major Parts list: 2' of 5/32" cable 4 - 1/8" to 3/16" cable clambs 2- 3/16" turn buckles 8" of left over nylon tubing misc hardware
I actually broke my left hand Moose guard the other day. Bent the hell out of it and snapped the end off right at the bolt! Here is another KLR farkle, not sure I like them but they will look alot better after they are blacked out.
I thought I would never destroy my skidplate- and then I did about two months ago. I upgraded just before RMAR to the XR's only Ricochet that looks kinda like yours. It gives me alot more confidence on rough trails but man oh man, it adds noise, something unbelievable - I thought I needed to set my valves after I installed it. I am thinking of adding some Dynamat or something to cut the clatter. I will wait to read your review on the Tusk bark busters, need those bad. Since I know you are hopping up your XRR this might be of interest. I installed the 4" SPAL Fan ($38) last weekend. It works great and still no battery needed on the stock stator! Just installed a $5 Full-Wave Bridge Rectifier (RadioShack model 276-1185) to convert the AC to DC. The fan, my LED rear light, 12V charger, Vapor and light works just fine. Even at idle there is plenty juice to run the fan. I did install a waterproof switch for it so I can turn it on or off if I need. Isnt this a great hobby
I have been looking at the Tusk hand guards with the built in LED turn signals. they look like they are pretty good units What is the part number on that axle wrench?
Just discovered I cross threaded my damper rod in my shock when I re-vavled it some 6-7000km's ago. Pretty peed to discover that, but at the same time I'm extremely excited it held the entire time! That could have been a hell of a ride depending on when it let go... Sooo. Anybody have a used shock? Condition doesn't matter other then the rod is not pitted and not bent. I'll be replacing the damper assembly with my own and the piston/seal head and installing in my shock body. No need for a spring either. Looking for as cheap as I can get. Sunk a few grand into this bike in the last month and hurting now What not to do when re-valving suspension.... I feel like such an idiot.
Looking to order up a stage 1 hotcams for my sumo BRP... Anything else i should think about changing out while the motor is that far apart? I was thinking the rear cam chain guide, the CCT, and the cam itself of course. New cam bearings? (does the cam come with them?)
I really don't understand how this system can help the rear subframe. the fixing point are always the same.. the long bolt trough the frame. where the iron cables turn around with rubber tubing..
I would do the chain itself for sure. Don't know about the bearings -- post up when you figure it out, I might do a stage 1 myself.
Cool, looks like I'm in with the Rox risers! I was checking out your RR's(Death Valley)-Awesome! great video and music. Jimmy
I thought about painting the outside of the skid plate black. My son has discovered a paint (ceramic for auto brake calipers) that is nearly indestructible.....far, far stronger and tougher than the bed liner stuff. Anyway, I thought that might give it a good look and cut down on the "dinging sounds" from rocks to the aluminum. The Tusk handguards are very impressively built. I have them installed and am very pleased. (note that you have to purchase the $16.99 big bar adapter if you have a 1 1/4.) They are $72 with the adapter.....far less than the $125 I paid for the Acerbis gaurds I purchased last year for my NX. Install on these guards was identical to the Acerbis. You have to wrestle them a little, but once screwed down.....they are solid as an anvil. I like the idea of a fan.....but even at RMAR and the Big Dog, I never over-heated. I suppose it will happen at some point and I will wish I had a fan. I am interested in the fan install (pics please!!!). Sounds like it might be a great winter project for the me and the BRP. Although.....I think I am going to add some windings to my stator over the winter and install a much, much brighter headlight solution....a rally type setup. Hobby....?????.....My wife calls this a "Bank Account Drain"!!!!! By the way, I gave my son the ProTaper (CR Bend) to put on his YZ426. I ordered and have installed a Tusk, Chub (Fat, Taper Bar, 1 1/4) that has the "ATV Bend" and raises the bar by another inch. At 6'4".....I am much happier with the riding position. (I also have 2" Rox Risers)
I am running 2" ROX Risers with ATV High Bend Bars......with Stock cables. I had to reroute cables.....but it was a piece of cake. I figure my grips are about 3.5-4" taller than stock. Good thing since I am 6"4". I love the riding and standing position.
Sorry for the tangent but I'm brake activating the ole rear this weekend and want to know the ins and outs before everything arrives in the mail. http://www.amazon.com/Goodridge-Banjo-Built-Pressure-Switch/dp/B000GZOM94 http://www.electricalconnection.com/other-lighting/tsk-std.htm There's the two things I'll be doing it with. I found these BD instructions to provide a general guideline.. http://www.bajadesigns.com/2005 Web Site/PDF Files/Manuals Leonelli/XR650R Quick Release.pdf Can anyone offer any advice beyond this? Any tools I need to be sure and have around before doing this? Does this belong in the electrical thread?
This is nearly the same setup that I have. My cables are routed the same way. The SF's weak point is were the solid "rod" is welded into the end of the tubing at the front mounting point where the long bolt goes thru. This "clamps" the SF and keeps it from vibrating too much and lessens the leverage that the luggage has on the SF. I see what you are saying too but the key here is that where I have the cable looped stays attached to the frame when the SF fails. Make sence?