I think I just left them in the garage. I really have no idea. Actually, I think I gave them to the motorcycle shop in my hometown. Talk to my bro, maybe he can find them for you...if he isn't too busy destroying my Harley and my truck....
Saweet!! I'm good at electronics and can make these and use them for different applications, thanks for sharing this!
Just took my stock bike and threw the 4.7 clarke tank and a seat concepts seat on there. Lovin' the look and feel of her right now!
Anybody who takes on an adventure like you is a hero in my book Don't sweat the armchair quarterbackers and jealous naysayers, you're on the adventure of a life time most folks will never take......and you'll come back a changed person...for the better I bet And dish soap or laundry soap will clean most oils out of your filter.....thats all I've ever used, won't destroy the filter but will get it clean and looking like new with a couple washings/rinsings.
Enjoy that white tank while its still white, pretty soon its going to start turning birdshit yellow from the inside out as the gas stains it......next time get any color but white. I hate the white tank that came on mine, just too cheap at the moment to pay a couple hundred+ bucks to replace a fully functional part, just because its yellowing. That may change soon tho.......
Man, I wish I could get some of my truck parts sold so that I could buy a new clutch kit for the Pig... It's still getting me back and forth to school, but it's definitely slipping when I try to accelerate hard.
Nope, paint will just bubble up from the gas. You can get some tank sealer and that will help. Pretty sure when I can afford it I'm getting a black Clark 4.7 for mine, or a white Acerbis 5.8 (I don't really care what mine looks like anyways).
Ahh well. I was going to eventually try and turn the rest of the bike white. I guess I'll enjoy it while it lasts. Either way I'll be happy to get more mileage out of the tank.
Unfortunately no....but softscrub and a scotchbrite pad can keep the yellowing down if you stay on it before it gets too bad. I have a few tricks I'm going to try on mine, if they work I'll let the forum know......I know its an issue that everybody with a white tank faces eventually Remember, the more slipping, the more clutch material is going to be spreading into your oil. I'd def check the oil screens in the line and case when you change the oil and replace the clutch. You don't want excess clutch material blocking an oil line or passage. Personally I park a machine when the clutch starts to go till I can replace it.
This is the kit i replaced my oem clutch with. the oem clutch only lasted me 40,000 miles. http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...Kit-With-Heavy-Duty-Springs/xr650l+clutch+kit
There's a thread on thumper talk describing how to use dye to recolor a tank. I don't have the link on my phone....
I didn't have good results with this kit. I replaced the stock clutch with this one and it was worse than the worn out original. It stuck really bad when first starting out. I had to jerk the clutch handle a bunch of times, every time to break the clutch pack loose. I tried different oils with only slightly different results. Personally, I would not recommend this one, but would stick to a name brand or OEM.
Dishsoap no gas mineral sprits yes......... dish soap may remove some oil.but you need ALL the oil off to release the dirt trapped into it.... B
Paint will peel right off..... Caswell tank sealer.......line the tank with it and it`ll likely stay white forever.. B
I had one of the Pirelli XCMH, great handling on and off road and good traction on and off road. Good ride.The front would head shake at around 7o MPH or so. POOR wear, I got like 2500 miles using then in a 80 on road 20 off road. As to the old rubber, I have twenty something year old Metzlers on my Husky 400 XCE. If they are not cracked, run em!
Ive heard however, that it should be done before the tank has been used. I don't know. that's what I heard.
