KLR650 Only Thread......

Left side of the dirt road if you are headed north. I will try and google it. I wandered around up there a few times mostly South of Antonito. Some half buried buses as homes. Spent most of my time lost.

first to second shift,,clunk!,,2nd to 3rd,,click, and all the rest,,click, click click!
Downshift,,click, click, no hangup or clunk downshifting into 2nd,,only up-shifting from first, and only into second gear. What's broke now?

After reading your reply, it seems I remember the 170mm measurement. Is this measured with the forks extended or compressed? With or with out the springs in? What does the lower 190mm do differently than the fuller, 170mm, i.e. harder, softer, faster or slower rebound?
Also, are the valve stems just for bleeding air or does anyone run pressure in them? I remember, way way back when, airing up the forks on an ol IT 175, but I may have been screwing up then, lol.

MeterPig, on what make and model motorcycle did you make this installation?

You, like all of us, are more than welcome to opinions and conclusions. Read the full context of my whole post too, including; "In 50 + years of riding I have never heard of nor seen any documented engine failure of road bikes due to them using the type of oil their factories have recommented. Plenty due to no or low oil. Since this is KLR thread, the factory suggests moly based grease in many engine areas, de-bunking the idea that those 'additives' will cause clutch failure."

The testing referred to was only the impact on the oil and its degredation. No impact on the motor/s were indicated.

I am fully aware of the process of testing oils; I use the process for work equipment wear indicators. Some oils we use are about $60 a gallon!

Sadly, just reading ( 75 hours + in the case of the Oil guy - who might also have spent the night at the holiday-inn? ) articles all about oils does not constitute 'research'. And the conclusions and repeating them endlessly (an internet passtime) from that reading are less likely to be relevant.

We are all free to make our own decisions. I choose to not line the pockets of the oil companies.

Now there is an oil related concern with KLR's. High oil temps - as high as 270 degrees. Another topic for another day.

2005 klr. Came off a 2011 zx6r.

Exactly why I think the oil topic is important for the KLR. I've had my KLR for about 1 1/2 years now, put lots of kms on it, and flog it hard too. First valve adjustment, RH intake cam bearing journal cap was noted to have some galling on it. Running good quality oil, ensuring it doesn't get low (mine is an oil burner), and changing the oil sooner rather than later, all likely helps keep these hard working engines alive. Although good machines these KLRs, there seems to have been a significant number of cylinder head failures (cam bearing journals). While any oil is better than none, given how expensive it is to replace a head (used ones have become quite expensive and hard to find), why cheap out on oil?

Ok, so I get my end caps off and pull out the spacers. Well, suprise suprise!
No progressive springs, like I was told when purchasing the bike, after all. So all this time I have been preparing to replace these seals and studying up on preload spacers and oil levels, I've been focusing on doing it in forks with Progressive springs!
So now I'm wondering how much longer I can safely make the spacers in forks with factory springs and if the oil level is still the same as with progressive. I'm stuck up here at work on this bike till I can get it back together, so, If anyone knows these specs, I would sure appreciate the help.

I would disagree strongly about the 22cent mod. I have an 08 KLR, buddy has an 09. Bikes are/were identical and bone stock except for the 22c modification and removing the idle mixture adjustment plug/cover and setting the mixture to about 2 turns out being done on both bikes. We both had run our bikes for about 2.5 years with the 22c mod only. I decided to buy the KLX needle kit from Eagle Mike and installed it on my 08. We took both bikes out and ran them back to back, both of us switching bikes twice. The KLX needle made a huge, clear difference in how well the 08 ran, both in feel and in actual performance. The 08 (KLX) outran the 09 (22c). We each switched bikes twice to really compare the two bikes to each other. Both of us agreed the KLX needle kit definitely gives the bike a MUCH better feel in overall performance and "driveability" as well as actually outperforming the 22cent mod in a back-to-back drag race between two identical bikes except for the carb mod.

The point here is if you're gonna get into the carb, put in the KLX needle, not the 22c mod. It has a much better impact on the bike than just the 22c mod, an impact that is both demonstrable in performance and in overall "feel" of the bike. (Other than the suspension changes) it's been the #1 thing that's improved my enjoyment of my KLR. Also my fuel mileage has stayed the same over about 3000 miles since I put the KLX needle in, so no real mileage hit over the 22c mod either. (PS: I put a KLX needle kit in my 06 KLR sidecar rig bike after trying it in the 08 with the same results, much improved driveability and "pull").

Clymers - 178-182 from top springs removed, forks fully compressed.
Level is subjective. Many go as low (high) as 150. The less air volume above the oil provides greater (faster) progressive compression of the air.

Shouldn't matter if you have progressive or straight.

Stock spacer is l o n g compared to progressive (2"). Just measure it and add an inch for the new spacer for a little additional pre-load and try it out.

Congratulations on your success with the KLX needle, ADW! I'm surprised an aftermarket needle would have a profound effect in a drag race.

I do not dispute your results; again, I congratulate you on them.

I find the results surprising, because: In a drag race, the throttle runs essentially at wide-open configuration for the majority of the race; the needle and the needle jet are not significantly involved in influencing the mixture for the most part; rather, the main jet dominates.

From, "Care And Feeding of the CVK40:"



How did the two bikes perform against each other when "identical," i.e., before the KLX needle was installed in the '08?

What was the margin-of-victory, i.e., distance between the bikes, at the end of the quarter mile?

Final question: What needle clip position did you use?

Thanks for sharing your experience.

Rider ability will play a FAR greater role than any differences between a DR and a KLR.

Also, do both have stock main jets? I ask because I seem to recall recommendations for a smaller main with a KLX needle.

Ordered an Anakee3 to try out for the rear of my KLR on a ride from east coast to west, and iron butt 1000 on the way out.

T63 on the front

You can say that again

I Did it, I did it!!!


I successfully removed both forks! without shearing any bolts or fucking anything up. Im stoked. Hopefully no issues arise when I take em to get the new seals installed.

Then... Putting it all back together. Again, with no issues... That will be the real victory. Im stoked.

I think I have finally read every post on this thread. Good time since I pick up my new to me '91 KLR this weekend! I haven't been offroad besides a dirt driveway, or because of construction, on my FJR since around '05.

holt shit. That's inspiring. I've thought about it since I spend so much time on here. How long did it take you?

Excellent question, I think I started reading it a few weeks ago.