Anyone ever put a 12v regulator on their XR350R? Trying to dual sport one I picked up last week. I think I need to connect the regulator to the blue wire coming off the stator and ground the other side. Am I on the right track?
Dont know, maybe this will help http://www.4strokes.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=20484 http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/745572-xr350-popping-bulbs/
I converted a xr350r to use a 12 AC regulator. yes, it goes between the lighting coil output and ground. sorry, I don't know the wire color off the top of my head, but there is a CDI output (black/red) and the other is the lighting coil. it's a shunt regulator, so the non-ground and the ground sides go to the lights. if you need a battery, then you will need a rectifier/regulator, which will be wired differently. one side will go to the lighting coil output and ground, and the other will be battery plus and minus. a thermal blinker will work with AC, I don't think the electronic kind will work with anything but DC. the horn will sound different on AC, than DC. if you plan to use LED lights you will likely want DC.
Here is my 1985 XR350R. It is completely bone stock except for the rox risers, protaper YZ high bars and HDB hand guards.
I just picked up an 83 XR350 in decent shape and have the carbs off taking a pine sol bath, just cleaned out the tank and trying to rid the intake manifold/cylinder of some corrosion and then I have to pull off a kill switch from one of my other XR's so I can see if this thing is gonna fire or not. I have a question if you don't mind, it seems like this bike doesnt have much compression I can push the kickstarter down with my hand its easier than my XR200. It is no where close to the compression my XL600R had is this normal?
another question and hoping for an answer, I just took a kill switch off a 94 xr100 and was gonna wire it up but didn't kniw where to connect it to all the wires and colors are different on the xr350 any thoughts? there is a black/white wire behind the flyscreen and a couple green ones and a white under the tank
Use a compression gauge 160 to 180 IIRC, I can barely push it by hand.... unless I remove the spark plug. Finally rejetted mine last week, it is running much colder, droppped from 248 to 204 in 65 degrees weather... The usual post suggest 48 slow jet and 135 main, and 110 on the secondary carb. I used 50 slow jet, and [correction I wrote initially 128, but it is 132] main leaving the 112 on the secondary carb. Will try to use a 48 on the slow jet latter for tease. Start first kick in the morning and first kick anytime when hot... for riding in the 4 to 6000' range. Slow jet or pilot jet ref : KEIHIN SLOW JET N424-74C and the main jet 99101-357- Got them from PJMotorsports.com
I picked up a 1985 XR350R a week or two ago, I've been tinkering with it off and on as time allows. So far I have sealed up a leaky carb intake and install a new air filter, checked the oil (it was low), and soaked the chain in diesel to get it cleaned up. There is still a lot to do, but its a start. It seems to run fine, but it has a "tick" like the valves need adjusted. So I removed the covers on the inspection holes on the left side and to my surprise....oil started running out of the large inspection hole. Unless there is something different about this bike that I'm not aware of there shouldn't be any oil in there. Its a little confusing, the flywheel/stator must have been submerged in a oil bath, if that's the case....how could this bike run like that? Am I missing something? :huh My first thought is a bad crank seal....
its a 4 stoke, no crank seal, its supposed to be like that. the level i think is high, its a dry sump on the 85 check it just after shut down
Busted......... I spend too much time wrenching on the 2-smokes. Thanks for the info... I thought I was in big trouble. Good to hear I was just stupid.
Theres a valve in the oil pump that stops the oil from flowing back into the engine from the oil tank, might be time to replace yours.
Thanks for the "heads up", something else to check...as of now, I'm pretty sure I overfilled with oil. I need to change the oil & filter and then refill with the correct amount to see if I have the same problem. I adjusted the valves last night (exhaust side were a little tight, intake were a little loose) and started the bike up, and there is still more noise from the top end than i would like to hear. The best thing would be to pull the engine and tear it down....but it starts and runs great....just a little rattle/tick.
anyone have any parts lying around for one? I need the part that goes over the carb spacer that the carbs bolt to before I can even see if this beast will run
Hi all, Last weekend I got my hands on an '85 XR350 with single carb in fair condition. These are really hard to find now. We fell in love and I brought her home for $500. Back in 1986 I dated an '83 XR350, that was my first real dirt bike when I turned 18. At the time that bike was my dream. Sweet memories! So my aim is to restore this one back into original state! It's gonna take some time as parts are hard to find. Merely a winter project. The engine runs but makes a clonking noise when idling. When revving a little higher rpm this dissapears. Could that be the small-end bearing, the primary chain or the valves?? So I will have to pull the engine and open it. Repair all, replace all worn parts. Repaint the engine and frame. Is there a RAL code for the red flash Honda paint?? The speedo is missing, all bearings are way past worn out, fthe ront brake is jamming and the suspension is cooked... well, what suspension? But hey, the DID gold rims are straight, the seat has no holes, the exhaust is not dented, the bike is plated and I'm gonna have fun with this project!
Nice bike !! I was just looking at mine earlier and making plans (my '85 will be my winter project too) and I was thinking how great it would look with the gold wheels. My front brake is having the same issue, i thought my problem might be with the braided line the PO installed (doesn't look as if it was made for this bike). I can spread the pads and it frees up but once I squeeze the front brake its like the pressure doesn't release completely.
I had this problem on a 250L, the master cylinder had some goop around the piston. A good cleaning and a $16 rebuild kit and it works OK now.
