Quote: What's recommended to clean the old bearings prior to regreasing if they are not replaced? I later found this link that explains quit a bit about that "plastic stuff" http://www.thumperfaq.com/swingarm.htm WOW! That is exactly the information I wanted. Permanent Lubricant..... OK If you say so. :huh I'm comfortable with my decision to go old school, and pack her tight with water proof grease. I'm back together, and torqued now. 47 rear, new seal guard, (third one from new) and a new chain is on. New Gel battery, a little fuel, and actually started
I'm supposed to drive an over loaded E150 Ford van to Western Kansas on Monday morning, but is sounds like I'll be getting another day off.
Hmmm... so are they any good? Dammit. I've dented my DID rim from running too low a pressure in the front tire. Looks like I'm either going to get an Excel rim and re-spoke or maybe a new Warp 9. Thoughts on the above ?
For any of you So Cal guys I noticed there was an IMS 4.7 on the SD CL for $300. Apparently new. Wish it was closer to me.
Run it dented if it isn't too bad dents are gonna happen I would only replace after the rim is thoroughly shot.
<"Run it dented if it isn't too bad dents are gonna happen..." Yeah, I am monitoring spoke tension in the dented areas. Trying to put the bike in good shape for some long runs this summer.
Hey rapid dog, what kind of nav tower do you have? Or if you built it yourself, could we see some more pictures?
What can be done to clean up the area under the seat in order to make more space? There seems to be so little room for new electrics. Anyone have any pics?
Short of cutting off the top of the airbox and making a new floor/top, or wholesale rewiring the bike, not much. What are you trying to fit?
I'm putting a rally fairing on with a GPS mount and some kind of a power connector for the dash, and I'm getting a Juicebox.. I'm pretty sure I can use the battery tender for a vest? I think that'll cover it.
This is a follow up on my seal guard issue at 5k, where I stated my opinion that the OP did not do proper maintenance. Some here disagreed with me. So, let's see if the last pic changes your mind. I got the swingarm and linkage complete off, cleaned everything well, took the bearings apart and lubed them with Maxima blue waterproof grease. The stock bearings had some weird plastic lube sticks in there (there is a name for it) that appeared almost dry, so in went the pick and out came the plastic lube thingy. Once everything was nice and clean, I got ready for reassembly. Than is, until I decided that it would be good to repack the wheel bearings while I have it apart. Surprise!
Just wanted to share a few mods I had done recently. First off, I installed some of these eye bolts where the rear foot pegs used to go. They work great for a tie down point for Giant Loop bags (I use a Mojave and a Coyote on mine). Yes, they can hit your ankles a little, but they do not bother me, especially since I ride in big MX boots (Sidi Flex Force). For reference, I ordered M8x1.25 thread, 13mm thread length. The eye bolt hole inner diameter, while not critical since it's just a nylon strap that passes through, is 20mm. I also mounted a pair of ADV Monster Model 60 LED lights. One of my buddies install his onto the fork reflector bracket that bolts to the lower triple clamp, but I could not get mine to clear my 2.7 gal Safari gas tank, even after flipping the brackets around. So I decided it would be best to bolt them up to my handlebar guards. This will keep the lights up high, allow them to turn with the steering, and also have a good spread apart so oncoming traffic can see them easier. The lights come with a heavy duty bracket ($10 extra for heavy duty over normal), and I just had to drill one hole and supply one bolt/nut per side. Wired these up to a relay/fuse to come and and off with the bike. I have not ridden off road yet with these lights, but when my buddy used them on his WR250R at LAB2V, he said it was incredible. I have used these on my F800GS at night, and I LOVE them. A very bright set of lights indeed.
Nice lights, those look pretty cool and I'm sure they'll be bright as hell. I like the eyebolt idea as well, gonna bank that one. :)
HM, It's called MPL a polylube that could have been left in. Read this article it explains it: http://www.thumperfaq.com/swingarm.htm
Good tips. I have my lights mounted low on the reflector mount. It's less than idea, snags on branches and gets too dirty. Think I'll try the barkbuster mount.
I did see that before I opened her up, but the lube had some dirt in it, the bushings had a little rust pitting, and there was dirt behind the seals, so I dug it out to clean it properly. Solvent and all Thanks for the suggestion though.
Eastern Beaver makes a really nice three circuit loom that with a little finesse fits into our available space nicely. He provides a couple of switched and unswitched Variations. http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/3_Circuit/3_circuit.html QUOTE=UtahFox;20802605]I'm putting a rally fairing on with a GPS mount and some kind of a power connector for the dash, and I'm getting a Juicebox.. I'm pretty sure I can use the battery tender for a vest? I think that'll cover it.[/QUOTE]
Hey guys, I'm looking at doing an exhaust mod before spring. My bike is stock performance wise. I don't really have the money or desire to do a full exhaust,header,chip system I'd just like a decent slip on so my bike doesn't sound like an electric lawn mower. If I throw a slip on and header on my bike and do the flapper mod do I need a new programmer? What if I don't do a flapper mod? What about just a slip on plus flapper mod, would it still need to be programmed? Thanks edit: also has anyone heard of the "Bazzaz Z-FI Fuel Fuel Management System" ? Is it the same as fmf?