The Spartan Way - Peloponnese Peninsula on two Africa Twins

So we were looking to drink some coffee, we stopped at Kallithea to fill our bottles with water and asked some guys at a cafenio for "coffee with a view" options. Turns out one of them is a biker as well and took us to the main square overlooking the area. He gave us some tips for the route and paid for our coffees. That's the second day in a row that we get free coffee, it's not about the money but the gesture made us feel very welcome in the area.





The view from the square




Back on the road and we take the route our friendly local suggested, we take a wrong turn (serves me right for not imputing the route to the gps) but the road is great so we make some alterations and decide to head to the temple of Epicurean Apollo. The road leading to the remote temple is marvellous.











Finally at the parking lot of the archaeological site


The temple was so remote that escaped destruction and pillaging throughout the millennia. It is protected by a tent from the harsh elements of the region and is in pretty good state considering it is 2500 years old..

After that we head for Neda, the only Greek river with a female name. Again we make a wrong turn and have to ride 15km back the way we came but the road is so nice, we didn't think much of it.

The road down the Neda waterfalls is dirt with rocks, steep climb and especially the part past the parking in really bad shape. All of this in not important though, as the surrounding nature is breath - taking... It was so good we actually forgot to eat anything for the whole day...







Pure Bliss






Nature is trying to take over the road..




I guess those who didn't come are justifiably "green with envy"




Yeap, that stretch of road had a posted speed limit of 20km/h, it was still pretty fast...










Some roads worth axploring




That's one of the good parts, wouldn't get the camera out on the worst parts..


Finally at the end of the road near the waterfalls (they were still 30mins walk from there so we skipped them)


Ghallas pictures of the same stretch








Interesting road..

We decide to go down to the river and have swim at the waters... The water is dick-shrinkingly cold...

next time you have to visit Pillion and as well Brallos ...

It's getting late so we make a dash to Gialova, the last vilagge before Pylos, where we know we will find an organized camping. It is too late to find a free camping spot (it is actually quite hard to do so at a place you don't know well)..

The road gets more traffic as we get to more touristy areas but it is still great and we have a nice ride south...

\





On this fill, the Africa had less than 5 litres per 100km.. Gotta love that bike...


Some Guy had made a mini Eiffel Tower at Filiatra.. :huh


This is olive tree country...






More Olive trees


Quick stop to get directions to the camp


We setup the tent and got to the village to grab some food, it's a wonder how we both completely forgot we needed to eat something...


Back at the camp we prepared to hit the sack..



Ghallas' Photos:






Ghallas tried to get some night shots



Then we went to the shore and relaxed a bit more... That is Pylos at the back.

I have been to Pilion many times, last one being a month ago, Brallos I ride at least twice a year as well. There are many good places here for a bike tour and the Peloponnese is just one of them.

It's hot...

I'm sweating..

WTF NOT AGAIN!



My idiot friend managed to pick an even worst spot for the tent, this time the sun shines straight on my head by 8.30...

I go take a swim to calm my nerves, and the retard shows up a bit later.. I congratulate him for another perfect tent spot, and then we return to start packing. As we were on an onganized camp ground, there was coffee near-by... I go and get two cold ones and the day seems to be on the right track...

After we pack we take a bath, and at about 12 we hit the road. First on the menu, Pylos and its Venetian castle.







Pylos


















The view from the castle is beautiful




Ghallas collection:

















We hop back on the bikes and move on to our next destination,,, The road we are riding in packed during August but now we find very little traffic, I believe it's best to visit the region early July when the weather is already warm but the masses haven't flocked in yet...

Next on the menu is Methoni, its castle seems much stronger and better preserved... Unfortunately we don't visit it, we have decided that we cannot do and see it all, we will have to re-visit all these places as there are countless sites and road to explore...

Day 3 Route. About 220 km Pylos, Methoni, Koroni, Kalamata, Oitilo, Gytheio. This route is unexpectedly satisfying, I thought it would be boring and with heavy traffic but it was quite the opposite...

Back on the road and we reach Koroni on the east side of the small peninsula. Now there was a surprise for us... Its castle isn't very famous but we loved it and had a great time walking through it. The main reasons are that it is still inhabited by civilians and has a populated monastery, it has ancient Greek, Byzantine, Venetian, Ottoman and modern ruins, has a great view and it's a nice walk...











Here we go!








Small beach..




Long Beach..


The beautiful garden of the monastery




Overlooking the village


The pillars are ancient (5th century BC), the small church is Byzantine and the walls around Venetian...


The road inside the castle


Ghallas' photos:







Yeah, I know, the portrait photos are sideways, I will try to fix it but for now, tilt your head to the right..








Competition






We were so joyous we actually thought that taking a picture of the cemetery with me smiling would be cool...














Koroni left us with great impressions, it seemed like a very calm and traditional village, even though it is a very popular summer destination...

We leave Koroni and head towards Kalamata, the 2nd largest city of Peloponnisos, we are just riding through, our goal it to reach Lakonia, the South-Eastern part.







Cunning side shot...


Past Kalamata the Lakonian architecture is strikingly different, as well as the change of scenes, this is a dry land with little vegetation and seems harsh and isolated...







All those clouds never got threatening, they were just there to give better shots..












The beaches continue to be tempting but we have road to cover...






A lot of stone and tower-like houses are typical here...






On the way to Oitilo


Mordor


Let's eat, shall we?




Ghallas camera:









It's funny how local youngsters on small bikes feel the need to show off their skills when they see loaded big tourers, This one was going all out to impress us with a noisy rusty pipe...






ONE DOES NOT SIMPLY RIDE INTO MORDOR!






Our restaurant, the owner was a biker and naturally didn't charge us for the coffee after the meal... That's free coffee 3 days in a row!

Finally we reach Gytheio, our destination for the day. We first take a few pics at the small peninsula with the lighthouse...





Yeah, you're ready for the Dakar...


We then continue on the shore with the intention of finding our camp spot. Today though I tell Ghallas that I'd rather we didn't pitch the tent, it seems pointless since everytime I wake up by the sun... Truth be told, when changing location every day, even the 30 minutes it takes to pitch and put down the tent seem too much work, especially if the weather is so good you don't really need it...

Anyway we see this beach with the shipwreck and, more importantly, some caravans on the south side... Let's check it out!




The place was good enough and we decided not to pitch the tent so fully loaded we head back to Gytheio for a drink. On the way back, we decide to see if there was an even better spot to sleep (more quiet) so we ride down some small roads but there are many houses and some expensive hotels near-by so it would be to risky.

We turn the bikes around the small dead-end road and set out. Ghallas is in front as he was behind me entering the dead-end, which was about 50m, dirt. I follow him and half way to the asphalt I feel something pulling on my boot, it keeps on tightening and I realise it's a fishing line, but I believe it will soon break and set me free. I am doing no more than 20 - 25 km/h... Suddenly my foot is free but the back wheel locks up at the same time. I manage to pull the clutch just before it stalls and also manage to stay upright until I come to a stop. I take the side stand down, descend and look at the rear wheel. This is what I see... :eek1




Ghallas comes back after he noticed I wasn't following, and he gives me his pocket knife (mine stayed home as I forgot to put it in the tankbag )


About 15 minutes later the wheel is free again, that was close!



We finally get to Gytheio and wash down some drinks.



We actually stayed until late, then rode back to the shipwreck to turn in...



There we are, like bums, but feeling like kings, we talk a bit more and then get some sleep, I swear one cricket was trying to come into my sleeping bag, or was it my imagination? Anyway sleeping directly under the stars is mystifyingly primitive and somehow offers us city-boys a much needed sense of freedom and closeness to nature...











I love you, I love you, I love you!








The beach is turtle egg-laying ground, there are these structures telling passers-by to watch their step, as the nests are protected by law.


The wreck was a nice touch to say the least...

Last day is upon us, but before we reach Athens, we had some more sight-seeing to do....

The route today is about 430km, with us getting lost but finding a great road we would have missed if not for our stupidity...

Next morning there is no snooze button...





Once up, the place is serene and beautiful.. The morning swim is so refreshing...









There is also coffee at the beach bar!



We take our time repacking and still we manage to have everything ready at 10.30, our personal best for the trip!



Then back on the road!

We take the main road till Sparta, and then get back on the secondary roads towards Megalopolis...

THIS IS SPARTA!




Getting better...


And Better...


Even more so...




These guys have a great view from their balconies...






Back on the road, it was full of pebbles, I almost lost the front at a turn...






This area was also struck by the 2007 fires...


We reach Karitaina, the villages of this area are very well looked after and a lot of money has been poured into them... The source of the funding comes from certain past ministers who were from the area are linked to this... No matter the situation, these villages are clean, organized, wealthy and worth a visit...






Then we get lost again. I know, it's ridiculous, but today we had no gps, since mine decided to go on strike, complaining about the battery even when plugged in... We end up in dirt roads, with no signs, knowing that Stemnitsa, our next destination is less than 15km away, but we can't reach it... Finally we reach another dead-end with a lovely monastery, and there is only one more road to try, we have been many hours on the saddle under the sun and I got a bit nervous.. The scenery kept me calm nonetheless...







Beautiful stone bridge in the middle of nowhere...


The monastery, the road ends here, again.


Ghallas pics:




Works past Megalopolis








Where the hell are we?

Great report mate!

I made the same trip back in 2004...

Keep this up!

Lefteris

So after a bit of double driving we take the last option and ride on, the road goes through some very narrow parts (a passenger car would barely fit), and we somehow end up on a twisty road which says it will lead to Stemnitsa after 11km.



Local highway, it's not very obvious but it was really steep...


We came through that bridge, it is barely a car's width.


Then we start to climb...




And climb...








And climb....


Some parts were messy..






Keep on climbing...




A little bit more... The view and the road are amazing..


And finally reach Stemnitsa... Another great looking, clean village..




Good stuff...




We then head to Dimitsana, a well known village with rich history, especially during the 1821 independence wars.. We decide to eat here...






The village is very traditional and a walk at the small alleys is rewarding..


The view form the restaurant..


Guess what, the owner was a biker (enduro, cross) and dessert and coffees were on the house... This concludes a streak of 4 free coffees for 4 consecutive days!!


"Screw you, I have 25 more days of vacations.."


Ghallas photos:

Thanks Lefteri! Your thread is also top notch! Κανονικά έπρεπε να μας πληρώνει ο ΕΟΤ...

The end of the ride was near, but there were some more surprises before the inevitable return...

The restaurant owner suggested we returned to Tripoli through Chrysovitsa, stating that it was a great scenic route, we took his advice, thankfully....

Just before that, we visited the "open air water power museum", which shows how water was used to do various noble things, such as produce gun powder..



"PlatAnic Love".. That tree is a "Platanos", if you're a Spanish speaker, it has nothing to do with bananas...








"Attention, house party going on just below"





Let's tan some skins!


Or should we make some gun powder?


That's the real deal, an actual gun powder mill from the 1800s..





I tested my Hein Gericke goretex boots, sat in the stream and no leaks at all.. They'd better, I got the wrong size and my toe hurts a bit so they should at least keep my dry...


One for the road...


After that we headed for Tripoli, meaning the highway, meaning we were about to get home...

But wait, this last section is not bad at all...


Not bad at all...





In fact, it is amazing!











But that soon comes to an end... Tripoli..


And out on the highway, let's burn some gas...


Boring but fast...


Last pit stop..


Akrokorinthos, the acropolis of ancient Korinth, we're about to enter Attika...


Made it home, some happy faces were waiting for me!