Airhead "Tips and Tricks"

patanga · Jun 14, 2012

helion42 said: ↑

@ patanga T/C tool

THAT is a good one. will be attempting it soon most likely.
Click to expand...

Hi helion42; If you take a look at the thread link I posted above you will also see a tension rail lock out tool that I made to make the job of keeping the rail out of the way much easier. Cheers
____________________
"The only reason people get lost in thought is because it's unfamiliar territory" (Joe Garcia)

Check us out on facebook at "BMW Airheads Downunder", (The Australia and New Zealand Airhead Community). "B.A.D"
http://www.facebook.com/groups/anzairheads/

Bill Harris · Jun 21, 2012

Got a couple of Tips & Tricks on Airhead Cylinder Stud Repairs:

Airhead stud tool dimensions
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=743311

with an ephiphany and subsequent advisory:

Airhead Stud Repair Advisory
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=745116

sdduke · Jun 26, 2012

My left hand shock bushing (Silentblock Part Number 335 31 230 258) was worn out (the rubber was shot), so I started shopping for bushings. My internet search came up with these babies being about 25 dollars each! My frugal nature had a real problem with that, so I searched some more. On a Sportster forum, a kindred spirit thought H-D bushings from the Motor Company were pricey as well. He used a washing machine hose to rebush his shocks.

Stealing from that, I took my shock down to the Advance Auto store and starting shopping for a heater hose that would work, since washing machine hose OD is too small. It so happens that a 5/8 heater hose fits perfectly. And it's $1.57 a foot.

Here's how to do it:

Remove what is left of your old rubber in the bushing, cut off about two inches of heater hose, press in the heater hose, press in the bushing eye, trim excess hose off with a razor blade, and you are good to go.

With the extra ten inches or so of hose you have left, you can rebuild another 8 bushings.

Here are some visuals for those like me who like pictures:

Shock with hose pressed in (I used my bench vise to squash it in with some WD40):

Push the eye in as far as you can. Then use your bench vise with a socket to drive it home (not shown):

Trim rubber flush with the bushing eye. I made some radial cuts in the hose, then cut off flush with the eye:

Just like Hans did back at the Boge factory:

Back on the bike:

Now my bike doesn't occasionally clonk in the rear anymore.

This was a lot easier than dicking around with a new bushing, as I did not have to press out the outer metal band of the old bushing.

Hope this helps!

brittrunyon · Jun 26, 2012

Thanks.....sdduke................

daveoneshot · Jun 27, 2012

Just got done removing the alloy spacer that hides the neutral switch on my /7, the one the long engine bolt passes through. I used my Cat's Paw nail puller......it's got a perfect hook that you can wiggle over the spacer, then grab the other end with some old Vice Grips and tap away. Took me a while as it was my first time removing this thing, but it
finally came out. Let's call it a Poor Man's Slide Hammer.

patanga · Jul 2, 2012

daveoneshot said: ↑

Just got done removing the alloy spacer that hides the neutral switch on my /7, the one the long engine bolt passes through. I used my Cat's Paw nail puller......it's got a perfect hook that you can wiggle over the spacer, then grab the other end with some old Vice Grips and tap away. Took me a while as it was my first time removing this thing, but it
finally came out. Let's call it a Poor Man's Slide Hammer.
Click to expand...

Any chance of a photo of what you did/used 'daveoneshot' ?.. Thanks:)

____________________
"The only reason people get lost in thought is because it's unfamiliar territory" (Joe Garcia)

Check us out on facebook at "BMW Airheads Downunder", (The Australia and New Zealand Airhead Community). "B.A.D"
http://www.facebook.com/groups/anzairheads/

patanga · Jul 2, 2012

Bill Harris said: ↑

Got a couple of Tips & Tricks on Airhead Cylinder Stud Repairs:

Airhead stud tool dimensions
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=743311

with an ephiphany and subsequent advisory:

Airhead Stud Repair Advisory
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=745116
Click to expand...

Excellent Bill Harris.. Thanks.

____________________
"The only reason people get lost in thought is because it's unfamiliar territory" (Joe Garcia)

Check us out on facebook at "BMW Airheads Downunder", (The Australia and New Zealand Airhead Community). "B.A.D"
http://www.facebook.com/groups/anzairheads/

Tobz · Jul 11, 2012

The correct parts for both of these mods are inexpensive, but these parts are easy to find just about anywhere. A pop rivet with the rivet removed is a good fit for a Bing float pin. The length just needs to be trimmed some. Napa has fuel filler hose that is a good fit for 32mm head to carb joints and it should hold up well.

Disston · Jul 11, 2012

Tobz said: ↑

The correct parts for both of these mods are inexpensive, but these parts are easy to find just about anywhere. A pop rivet with the rivet removed is a good fit for a Bing float pin. The length just needs to be trimmed some. Napa has fuel filler hose that is a good fit for 32mm head to carb joints and it should hold up well.

Click to expand...

Now that is a cool tip. Imagine, Long Intake Runners !

Boxer Metal · Jul 14, 2012

daveoneshot said: ↑

Just got done removing the alloy spacer that hides the neutral switch on my /7, the one the long engine bolt passes through. I used my Cat's Paw nail puller......it's got a perfect hook that you can wiggle over the spacer, then grab the other end with some old Vice Grips and tap away. Took me a while as it was my first time removing this thing, but it
finally came out. Let's call it a Poor Man's Slide Hammer.
Click to expand...

If you put a slight bevel on both ends of the alloy tube it goes back in much easier.

moosehead · Jul 23, 2012

And throw it in the freezer for an hour or 2 and it'll nicely pop back in...along with those bevelled edges.

Other Bob · Jul 27, 2012

My old throttle and enricher cables are kinked right above the metal end fitting on the sleve, above the adjustment fitting that screws into the top of the Bing. I ordered new cables from BMW, but they will just do the same thing eventually without some additional "flexible" support.

Go to your hardware store and look through their selection of springs. I used 7/16-inch x 3-inch compression springs from Midwest Fastener Corp. in Kalamazoo, Mich. (http://www.fastenerconnection.com/)* - they just happen to supply my local hardware store. Part #18676 (spring #165 on the board) is what I used, but others would have worked too.

The picture pretty much tells the story. This size spring will slip over the grip end of the new cable, slide down past the kink point (the joint between the cable sleeve and the metal end fitting) to the adjustment fitting, where it will rest on top of the jamb nut. If you aren't replacing cables and don't want to remove your existing ones from the grip housing just to do this simple mod, simply open the crimped end of the spring a bit (like a key-ring) to get it started on the cable, then wind the spring on over the cable -

Finished. The springs cross the kink point and are supported at the bottom by the adjustment fitting screwed into the Bing cover. This will help give some lateral support to the cable sleeve and spread the load over a broader area so it doesn't kink right where the cable sleeve exits the metal end fitting -

Comparatively cheap('ish) protection at $0.90 each.

Good luck,

Bob

* Based on Midwest Fastener's web site I may have to take a ride to Kalamazoo to see this place in person! I'm a hardware store junkie, expecially the 'hardware' isle itself! In the sixth picture down, on the back wall, you can see the kind of spring display that my local store had.

Disston · Jul 27, 2012

That's a nice trick MotoKaw. My throttle cables are also kinked. I'm gonna try that one. Thanks

Sic Semper Tyrannis · Jul 27, 2012

I split a piece of fuel line about 3 inches long. Slipped over the throttle cables and zip tied with black wire ties.

Works great.

pthomas · Jul 27, 2012

MotoKaw said: ↑

My old throttle and enricher cables are kinked right above the metal end fitting on the sleve, above the adjustment fitting that screws into the top of the Bing. I ordered new cables from BMW, but they will just do the same thing eventually without some additional "flexible" support.

Go to your hardware store and look through their selection of springs. I used 7/16-inch x 3-inch compression springs from Midwest Fastener Corp. in Kalamazoo, Mich. (http://www.fastenerconnection.com/)* - they just happen to supply my local hardware store. Part #18676 (spring #165 on the board) is what I used, but others would have worked too.

The picture pretty much tells the story. This size spring will slip over the grip end of the new cable, slide down past the kink point (the joint between the cable sleeve and the metal end fitting) to the adjustment fitting, where it will rest on top of the jamb nut. If you aren't replacing cables and don't want to remove your existing ones from the grip housing just to do this simple mod, simply open the crimped end of the spring a bit (like a key-ring) to get it started on the cable, then wind the spring on over the cable -

Finished. The springs cross the kink point and are supported at the bottom by the adjustment fitting screwed into the Bing cover. This will help give some lateral support to the cable sleeve and spread the load over a broader area so it doesn't kink right where the cable sleeve exits the metal end fitting -

Comparatively cheap('ish) protection at $0.90 each.

Good luck,

Bob

* Based on Midwest Fastener's web site I may have to take a ride to Kalamazoo to see this place in person! I'm a hardware store junkie, expecially the 'hardware' isle itself! In the sixth picture down, on the back wall, you can see the kind of spring display that my local store had.
Click to expand...

Any worry that the cable will be damaged from vibration?

Other Bob · Jul 27, 2012

I don't think that vibration will cause the spring to wear into the cable sleeve. This particular spring was of the "Goldilocks" variety - not too stiff, not too flexible, just right.

I'll keep a close eye on it though and report back if it causes more probles than it cures.

That being said, I like SST's split fuel line idea too! If this spring doesn't work as intended that's what I'll do next. Thanks for sharing it SST.

Wirespokes · Jul 28, 2012

I'd think a closer fitting spring would be better - one that just fits the cable.

Other Bob · Jul 29, 2012

MotoKaw said: ↑

*** Part #18676 (spring #165 on the board) is what I used, but others would have worked too. ***
Click to expand...

You might be right WireSpokes. I took my cable to the hardware store and tried many different sizes. I think that several would have worked well enough, but I went with the 7/16-inch diameter because it had a nice close fit to the knurled screw head and metal end fitting on the cable sleeve (a solid/fixed support point) and then spread a decent amount of lateral support to the sleeve above that end fitting (which is where the kink happens).

An extra thick heat-shrink wrap tube (or a few layers) crossing the usual kink point would probably work too. But SST's fuel line idea and this spring can be moved to make cable adjustments - I think shrink tube would have to be removed, replaced, cables adjusted, then shrunk again to get the same job done.

Bob

Beemerboff · Jul 29, 2012

The ferrule on the end of the cable unscrews, so it is possible to unscrew it, unwind and cut off the kinked bit, and screw the ferrule back on, but only if you still have a decent bit adjustment in the cable.

Also good to know if you are trying to fit 32 mm cables to 40 mm carbs, some 32'cables have been known to end up in the wrong parts bag- DAHIK.

Zodiac · Jul 29, 2012

bmweuro said: ↑

If you put a slight bevel on both ends of the alloy tube it goes back in much easier.
Click to expand...

I need to do this soon, replace my neutral switch. I took a glance at Snobum's comments on this but didn't read the whole thing.

So to do this; once you pull out the engine support rod, and get the alloy spacer out, does the engine need to be lowered or can you just put a jack underneath and support the engine when you replace the switch?

I guess I'm wondering why it would need to be lowered if you can reach the switch port.

Log in or Join

Airhead "Tips and Tricks"

patanga Been here awhile

Bill Harris Confirmed Curmudgeon

sdduke David in Atlanta

brittrunyon 1992 R 100 GS

daveoneshot Been here awhile

patanga Been here awhile

patanga Been here awhile

Tobz Ne'er-du-well

Disston ShadeTreeExpert

Boxer Metal Mad Scientist

moosehead Been here awhile

Other Bob Been here awhile

Disston ShadeTreeExpert

Sic Semper Tyrannis Plays with Banjos, Boats and Bikes...

pthomas Been here awhile

Other Bob Been here awhile

Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

Other Bob Been here awhile

Beemerboff Long timer

Zodiac loosely portrayed

Log in or Join

Useful Searches

Airhead "Tips and Tricks"

patanga Been here awhile

Bill Harris Confirmed Curmudgeon

sdduke David in Atlanta

brittrunyon 1992 R 100 GS

daveoneshot Been here awhile

patanga Been here awhile

patanga Been here awhile

Tobz Ne'er-du-well

Disston ShadeTreeExpert

Boxer Metal Mad Scientist

moosehead Been here awhile

Other Bob Been here awhile

Disston ShadeTreeExpert

Sic Semper Tyrannis Plays with Banjos, Boats and Bikes...

pthomas Been here awhile

Other Bob Been here awhile

Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

Other Bob Been here awhile

Beemerboff Long timer

Zodiac loosely portrayed