ok so i had an issue with the clutch locking it up..so took it apart to find basically nothing wrong..didnt get to get the job done as i had some dental work scheduled to get done.... sooooooo i went to put it all back together and just want to clearify the last friction plate goes between the short tabs on the basket and not between the long like all the other friction discs?? ..if that makes any since.
Guys; I have for sale in mint condition one 17 litre Acerbis tank to suit a KLX650C, in GREEN. Will ship world wide at your expense, currently located in Australia. Make me an offer, no longer made and hard to get hold of, this may be your last chance. Don't miss out on making your pride and joy a capable Adventure mount. PM me with any offers, will go to the highest offer. Cheers Fogo..
Definately won't fit a 'R' model ??? Got a fella interested in my bike - he wants a bigger tank for it. He's not on ADV so I said, "I'll see what I can find for ya mate."
Installed the Arrow exhaust the other day. Sounds good and gives the bike a bit more sting. Looks the part too.
Bought it NEW from a seller on ebay. I bought it for about $310 AUS and about $50 AUS postage from Italy. Took about 4 weeks delievery. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Exhaust-...0132974?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item20af4ed66e
I put 10 wt oil in the forks and a DRZ 400 shock in the rear with a 500lbs Eibach spring. Pretty good setup. I still bottom the rear out and the tire hits the fender. Does anyone else with the DRZ shock have this issue? Do you have the DRZ bumpstop? I had to make a new one out of rubber suspension bushings. If I make the bumpstop any taller it will hit too early and since it is rubber it kicks back. I imagine it would not be good if it were too tall. Rear shock needs to be rebuilt to put on the right bumpstop, but I'm still not sure if it would be tall enough to prevent the rear tire from hitting the inner fender/battery box. I have the compression maxed out on the shock and I still want more, I have the rebound maxed out and I still want more. The bottom line is I can't ride it as fast as i want to solo because of the tire hitting the fender, and I can't ride fast at all loaded with a passenger and camping gear
I can tell by the pic you rider harder than I do. Yes I have bottomed the shock. Also have cracked the stamped bracing between the top tubes on the sub frame. That is a combination of age of the bike, flex and and the tire wacking it. I haven't hit the air box, but have modified the license plate with the tire. There are a few things you can try with the shock, before a rebuild. I changed oil. Stock is 2.5 oil, I changed it out and replaced with the same. You can go to a heavier oil and see what effect that has. Don't overdo the viscosity, 10 wt is too heavy from experience. These shocks came with 3 different size bladders in them. I have the longest one, on the advice of some one who sells them. Despite Internet asking, I never got an answer as to the proper charge of Nitrogen. I think it is in the vicinity of 140#. If it is low, it makes a drastic change. You can experiment just using compressed air to see what effect it has. You can shorten the dog bones on the suspension rocker. You may have to do that on your own as I am not sure the KLR ones work, post 2008 definitely do not, but not hard to fabricate. I made some out 1 1/4x 1/4 strap steel. Stock spacing of the holes are 124mm. Some where around 120mm ought to do it. That increases ride height and effective spring rate.
I worried about cracking the subframe too from your posts, so I welded in some pretty good reinforcements. Removed about 95% of the twisting and flexing, so hopefully it won't fatigue and crack. I think I'm going to try shorter dogbones like you said, the actual motion of the shock is not bad, I just need to limit the travel of it. I'm not looking to get the kind of air I do on my 125, but I need to be able to ride faster through the desert. How do you change out the oil without rebuilding the shock?
Thanks for the pic of the bracing. I will do that next time, as I do not think my welding on the stock braces will last long. To change the oil, take the spring off. Let the nitrogen out. With the shock upside down use a socket of the proper size and tap downward on the metal plate with the schrader valve until you expose a circlip. Remove the circlip. Use compressed air on the schrader valve and it will pop the metal plate out. Remove the bladder and that expose the oil. Pour out the oil working the shock to get it all out. Reverse to reasemble, just put the metal plate in the groove of the bladder before installing. Using heavier oil should get you more compression and rebound control out of the adjustment, but I tried 10 wt and it was too heavy. It would compress easily for part of the stroke and then act as if locked up. 5wt might be OK. When you refill, pump the shock to get the air out making sure there is always some oil in the bottom. Prepare to clean up the mess if you overfill it.
before after Just the two triangle gussets on each side, one big flat plate welded in to brace the arch. Also, along the 2 main tubes where the diameter suddenly gets smaller, I overlapped a piece of angle iron on each side.
How about revalving the DRZ The DRZ is valved for a original 5.5 kg/mm spring. That is i think. 308 lbs /inch spring. With only oil you never come to a good result. I have a 542 spring on it, another shock, shockstroke, so another wheel travel. So another spring, ridersag and free sag. As original. When i ask do you know your wheeltravel in your combination, nobody has an answer. I asked here several, too find out data. Nobody knows!!!!!
By a suspension service center tryed to find out on the internet, how to, where to buy. All about free sag rider sag much about springs less about oil almost nothing about shims. DRZ bike for a rider klx650R bike adjusment less about what wheeltravel, how to measure what spring maximal springstroke must be > shockstroke + pre adjust spring. mine is 134 mm-106,4 mm = 27,6 mm for pre adjustment (setting the rider sag) This is by every springrate different. I also bought a cheap shock from another bike, then find out what spring i need, choose the wrong one, saw that i have a totaly different wheeltravel as i assumed ( because different shockstroke), so i had to take different sag (free, rider) numbers and at the end let it service to revalve. Even cheaper than buy a totaly new one. All people think about styling, sound than power, an less about suspension. (safety, hitting that one rock, that can change your live totaly, because a crappy suspension adjustment,) When you take your bike out an do more than average or in a accident situation hitting the street board.
Guys, just an update on the KLX650R group tank buy, Talking today again to Toby from Off Road Imports Australia and he has been talking to the Acerbis factory, they have been up the back shed and pulled out the mould for the "R" model and inspected it, it is still in good useable condition. At the moment they said they would do a run of no less than 40. We said no way and they agreed that they have done runs of 15 before, so that is where we are at. no firm price yet. If we can get 15 done Toby said he doesn't mine taking 10 for stock if we can sell off 5 straight away. He said he still gets quite a few people asking for the 17 litre tanks from time to time. So cross your fingers and start to spread the word to the "R" model owners you know. Cheers Fogo..
