I have an air compressor and for many years have simply used my impact driver to quickly spin off the Front Sprocket retainer bolt and washer. I change front sprockets often and especially on my 500. Make sure new sprocket and washer are properly aligned (yes you can screw this up) and hammer away until I hear the sound change. I have no clue what the actual torque is. Not that I am going to change after 40 years but other than the obvious "over-torque induced metal failure" why is this a bad thing
Lots of Blue Loctite on the CS bolt. Check the spring washer and the bolt head, when it shows wear replace them both (cheap for once). This washer is what really holds the sprocket on and tensions the o-ring to keep it from leaking.
Yeah the shape of the washer is important, sooner or later most KTM engines will start leaking in the CS seal area. Best bet is to replace the stock CS washer with the Dirt Tricks one, it's made from tooling steel and will keep its domed shape much longer. In a bind - e.g. somewhere on a trip or so - you can also re-dome the washer by putting it in a vice between two differently sized sockets. Justin, Nice to see you back out in the jungle on the new bike! Just take it easy for a while so that the leg has a chance to heal before you abuse it again...
First off what a great site and resource, thanks to all that have posted! I have tried to digest all 284 pages but need a little help. I just purchased a 2013 exc 500. I have the following questions: 1. I want to do the desmog, so I can use the 3.5 KTM gas tank. Some of the post say to remap, some it would appear leave the stock mapping program. My dealer won't do a remap. Is it OK to desmog and us the stock mapping? 2. On re-gearing, most of the posts say to go with a 13 or 14 CS and 48 rear, will the stock chain work with the new setup? Thanks for you help, Gray headed old fart
It will benefit to an altered fuel map, it's very lean from the factory. Personally mine runs flawlessly with the Magic Mod, cheaper than piggyback programmers and one less possibly point of failure. You CAN fit a 14/48 on stock chain. I did....and promptly burned through the mud flap as the tire is too far forward. Bike handles better with the rear wheel back as well so I'm much happier with a longer chain. I think 14/50 it too short, 14/48 is marginal and I may go 14/46 but depends on the individual. Check the wiring behind the headlight. Mine wore through after 2 hours and caused problems. Ktm used put in about as bad a wiring harness/connectors as possible.
I tried the 14/48 gearing and while it works and you can use the OEM chain you will find the 50 tooth rear sprocket is the optimum setup especially if you are going to climb any steep grades or ride any slow technical single track. You don't need to buy a new chain. Just add 2 extra links to the OEM chain. You will need another master link.
Good info for him, guys. I did the Euro map along with desmog, runs absolutely great! Also, maybe depends on rider weight for gearing? I added a couple links as suggested & am running 15/51, wanted to keep chain up off slider as much as possible. Bike pulls the gearing with no problem, it's an animal on hillclimbs. In fact, here's a video of it going up a very steep, loose, long sand hill at Jawbone Canyon.: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YgkZsSUNzgI
Need some quick help on my Highway Dirt Biker setup! I am trying to mount the KTM computer protector to the top clamp. They sent both short and long screws to mount the protector to the clamp. It appears you would use the short screws to mount the protector on top of the clamp, and the longer screws to mount it under the edge. The problem is that the tapped holes that go all the way through the top clamp are not quite finished properly right at the bottom, so I can't get the long screw through to mount the protector underneath, which is where I want it. I just want to be 100% sure I am looking at this correctly. I don't have the right size metric tap, so I am going to have to go get one tomorrow, assuming I am on the right track here. TIA
was wondering what anyone thought about the 500exc starter after seeing this? not sure myself. <object width="420" height="315"><param name="movie" value="//www.youtube.com/v/YwhAs-WaPMU?version=3&hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="//www.youtube.com/v/YwhAs-WaPMU?version=3&hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="420" height="315" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object>
More than likely it is the very end of the threaded hole giving you probs.Take one of the longer bolts and run it through from the top, this should clear the threads. The clearance is very tight mounting the odo from the bottom so make sure both pieces are lined up properly. This is easier to do before mounting the clamp to the bars.
Thanks - I already went back and thought about it and decided they left it a little rough at the bottom on purpose so the bolt would stay put when you put the nut on the bottom. I chased an old bolt through it first to make sure the threads didn't get too buggered up for the nut to go on easily and it was fine. So, after that, I have it put back together and now I have another little dilemma. I went with the high (2-1/2) lower clamp. The top of the number plate headlight hits the bare plastic parts at the bottom of the front two indicating lights. I can't attach the rubber bands without smashing the lights. I want to eventually add an LED headlight, and I know either Baja Designs or Advmonster has spacers (or maybe they both do) and I am wondering if I could just buy the spacer for now. Otherwise, I think I will have to punt and put the computer back in its original spot.
I ran a tap thru the holes you are talking about. I used some long wire ties around the forks and thru the holes in the number plate where the rubber things should be when I had the stock headlight in there with the HDB stuff at first. I bought a Baja Designs LED headlight which included the spacers you are talking about. That worked out better. It is not a bad idea as the stock headlight sucks big time. That Baja Designs LED is awesome!
And the starters are mounted in the correct plane relative to the crank on the four strokes keeping them from having the same issues as the poorly designed KTM two stroke starters. Thankfully.
Good to know. Thanks for the help. Also thanks to EVERYONE in this forum for all the great info. The people who make this forum are a great bunch. Many have helped me on my exc and may never know how appreciated all the knowledge you shared was. I am shocked how this info catches you up to speed on getting your bikes lose ends tied up and making us safe on the bike. Major Props to all here! EXC RULES.
On the starter issue, about every 4th or 5th start, the starter just can't quite get the torque to turn the motor over, and I have to hit the button again and it turns over. I chalked it up to the abuse the starter and battery took at the dealer's hands when new. I watched them just run the starter seemingly forever to try and get it started cold. I don't want to re-hash an old post, but I figured out that the only way it will start cold (if it doesn't light off right away), is to turn the ignition off then on, which lets the fuel pump come back on get back to full pressure. Then it is instant start. Anyway, back to the point. I saw the post I copied below on a local GA offroad forum. It sounds reasonable, and I am going to give it a try. Looking at the size of the +12V cable to the starter, that's a lot of current to make its way back through the ground path. ********************************************************* I've been through the starter blues with my 300 since I bought it in 2008 and now have 480 hours logged, but I finally solved it. It got progressively worse over the years in spite of a brief period of improvement with the Shorai battery when it would even start cold. 2 months ago I rebuilt the starter motor as the brushes were almost gone but still no improvement. Next, I ran a ground wire directly from the starter motor mount to the negative terminal on the battery and now it starts even cold. Curious, I removed the wire and sanded the back of the motor mount and the case where it mounts to get better contact. Better but not as good as the wire. Next I cleaned the frame where the sub-frame mounts for better contact. Slight improvement, still not as good as the wire. It seems when the bikes are new the ground circuit is good, but with age deteriorates. Also, the starter motor mounts to the magnesium ignition cover which is insulated by a gasket, mounted to the engine case which grounds to the frame. Not a direct path. Once I determined the wire worked fantastic, I had my friendly local KTM dealer order a battery cable same as the one that runs from the positive battery terminal to the starter motor post. I've been riding it for 2 months now with no failure. It starts instantly cold or hot. Incidentally, the Shorai Is 9 months old and was replaced once by warranty. I will probably try Ballistic when I need another.