I have emailed BPD several times now asking them if they would make the front disc guard for a 690 but no response. Maybe us 690 owners can start an email campaign like we did on the swingarm guard and get them to make one.
You should try and add more fuel with the pot switches in all three bands. It's a lean condition, dollars to donuts and the G2, won't fix that.
thanks, tomorrow I'll start adding some fuel and see what happens. I was going to sell because I'm short, but Ive ordered a link to lower it and we'll see how that helps and I ordered a new spring from super plush for my big but.
LOL, the FMF header I got has shoddy welds and managed to break another hole in it. Think I'm done with FMF.
I have a complete Akro Ti system for sale you know the one thats is $2200 I'm selling it pretty cheap Check out the aussie ,classifides page 7
Nice. I got the same and like it. I wired mine up with the stock pigtail from the old tail light harness so I could swap back if I wanted. Not like I would... If you need any help, lemme know, but the guy gives good directions.
I have the same light, clear, with integrated blinkers. The light itself is very bright, but the blinkers are so close to each other (well, what did I expect, in such a small unit ) that they're not very distinguishable or visible for riders or cars behind you while riding. I'd go for this unit without integrated blinkers, and use separate blinkers instead. Just my 2ct off course :) The seller provides clear instructions and support, so you won't have any trouble installing it.
I've already been thru this before with led unit on my 950. I keep my external turn signals. This is in addition. I want those dam cagers to see me. I make up Molex y cables so it all plugs in cleanly. I absolutely hate to cut up a harness. Most all mods I do are at the connectors. Did similar for SAS foolers. Sent from outer space with my Thunderbolt with Tapatalk.
I've posted the procedure (link to a supermoto site) to check it with a VOM meter somewhere on this thread, but I cant find it. Adding some fuel via the trims will improve the throttle and the surging. I run the 10% slower throttle map off-road and the 25% when commuting. The 10% is not too snappy, but its jerky when shutting off. When off-road you can't feel it, but running on a trailing throttle in town is crap. The 25 % slower throttle is much gentler when closing. Am I making any sense?
The latest map updates I have seen are dated Jan 18,2013. I have been in contact with Richard because I got the map switch. That switch switches between map1 and any other map. The new map setup has 5 maps for open airbox and 5 maps for closed air box. My bike has closed airbox. The problem is the first 5 maps are for open airbox, so the switch is kind of useless. I asked him to do a setup where the first map will be the power map for closed air box and also to add an economy map. He said he would do it last week but so far no word. I will have to mail the ECU to Mike Tolle in California to get it reflashed, but I am not going to mail it until Richard sends the setup I want to Mike. I have not had any issues with surging though.
Hey man, what size fuel line do you need to do this? Did you replace all of it from the regulator forward? I'm considering doing this soon, because I've ran into some issues fitting this into the available space... THAT, and having access to an external fuel filter would be much more desirable.
I bought a 36" piece of 5/16" injector line bulk. Yes, it comes from the regulator and sweeps under the TB and around to the left side of the filter. Length isn't much of an issue at those pressures. I found a purilator version of the filter at Pep Boys along with the injector line and the good fuel clamps. For inside the tank I got a packaged 18" piece of injector line (cheaper and I had already bought it before finding the bulk). Perfect length to take out the filter and the plastic line from the pump to the first connector. That way no adapters needed. Just 2 clamps. FYI for those carying a spare pump. I found a #8 press nut works perfect for the OEM screen assembly. I'll be picking up a couple to put with the Original pump I'll be carrying for spare. I'm considering using this to replace all the clamps inside the tanks. I picked one up at SEMA a few years ago. Neet tool for hose clamping in places that a long term. http://www.clamptitetools.com/home.html
You will need submersable fuel injection hose for inside the tank, it is not cheap. The regular stuff does not have a fuel proof outer skin and will deteriorate over time while submerged and spring a leak.
I found the corrugated flexible line on McMaster Carr. The only difference is that it's clear instead of black. I eliminated the inline filter and quick disconnects entirely and it's much easier to change out the pump with out needing to stuff all the crap into the tank. 12" line was $14 as I recall.
Give Acme Rider Supply (local shop here in the Atlanta area a shout. I believe he's putting together a group buy on the Oberon Slave cylinder (he did some research and I guess determined this was the best thing going.) Andrew (owner) is a great guy and an inmate on here. Highly recommended. (And no, I have no financial incentive for the referral, just a happy customer.) Hope this helps, Jeff PS: Hope this isn't 205--I haven't been keeping up lately.