Not likely; the temperature sensor in the head is connected to the temperature gauge; the cooling fan is on a separate circuit and activated by closure of the thermal switch in the lower reaches of the radiator. You can test your cooling fan by temporarily shorting the thermal fan switch lead to ground, simulating switch closure. Here's a wiring diagram for a Generation 1 KLR650 fan circuit; same-o for KLR250 (except no separate 10-amp fan fuse): http://www.bigcee.com/faq/KLR-Fan-ckt-4.jpg
My 94 klr only runs hot at highway speeds ( 50mph+). Any ideas on the cause of that? This is a unfamiliar bike to me. Bought it a few months ago and had a carb issue. Got that fixed, but when i took it out for the first time it ran hot.
Get all of the air out? Its happened before on these bikes. Also, what do you call hot? Mine always seems to run on the higher end of the gauge but has never seemed to overheat Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
into the red. But, pull into a small road or trail and will cool down into the mid to high range on the temp gauge. Havent tried burping the radiator, guess ill give that a shot this weekend.
Likewise; needle has approached the red, but . . . coolant never boiled. Thus, WHAT? ME worry? Even idling in 100-degree F. weather, with the radiator properly burped, the fan cycles and the coolant stays within safe limits.
I have read everything I can find on the subject of CVK 34 problems, but I have yet to see any solutions to my problem. The engine wants to race with the throttle closed. The carb is clean, I am afraid of wearing out the screws from taking it apart. The start mechanism is new from my thumb through the plastic cap at the carb body. When I had it apart last I noticed the slide was worn badly, so I just replaced it with a new one. The person before me pulled the exhaust diffuser and carved up the air box, replacing it with a spring loaded, oil soaked sponge. For those reasons, I went from a stock 112 main jet to a 115. I noticed the pilot air screw was square on the end. It does extend into the throat, but I wonder if it even belongs to this carb. The motor idles best with the pilot air screw CLOSED!!!??? The engine does not race as bad with the fast idle screw turned down, but then it will not idle regardless of pilot screw position. The bike starts and runs well, and when I last checked it got 67 MPG. The bike has about 3200 miles on it, but I suspect it was mostly off road
Long-distance diagnosis difficult, but . . . COULD BE an air leak in your plumbing, somewhere. Are you certain the starting enricher ("choke") plunger is fully seated, closing both its fuel orifice and air passage? The idle circuit, properly configured, admits the idle mixture through the pilot jet into the venturi . . . butterfly valve should be in most restrictive position, slide adjusted down with the idle adjustment screw. . . and the fuel screw should have a "pointy" end . . . You've read a lot; have you read this? http://www.gadgetjq.com/keihin_carb.htm About the CVK40, but applicable to the CVK34 in large measure.
I suspected air leaks initially, but I have inspected everything, even the car adapter and it's O ring. All of the emissions stuff has been removed, so the vacuum port at the front of the port is capped. I put a new O ring under the pilot spring, and I replaced the broken starter cap and assembly thinking it might leak there. I suspected the worn slide of leaking too much air but the slot it fits in showed no signs of wear, likely a better material. The fact it idles well with the pilot turned all the way in tells me something odd is happening, but I have run out of ideas. I am going to pick up a complete parts bike tomorrow, and with any luck, the pilot needle will be intact and give me something for comparison. I am not a stranger to carburetors, I have been drag racing for over 35 years. But this isn't a Holley, and I don't have 3 functional spares on the shelf. I wonder if the removal of all of the factory systems has somehow unbalanced something. When I tried to run without the air cleaner, ( I think it's a unifilter) the engine ran so lean it wouldn't rev past 7000.
I put my '00 klr250 in the flea market today if anyone in the southeast is looking for one (I'm in Savannah). ~8k miles on it; I've been using it regularly for commuting over the past couple of years. It is a really great bike but I'll be moving this summer and it isn't looking too practical to try to get it to the left coast. Some of you would say (rightfully) that I should just ride it there! But I'll be on the big bike - my first Really Big Bike Trip.
Found out the problem. I acquired another carb from a parts bike for comparison, and found that a previous owner for my bike had drilled the pilot screw hole out, maybe an additional .010: -.015". With the screw all the way in, it would protrude nearly 1/16" into the throat. That explains why it would only idle with the screw bottomed out and the throttle plate opened excessively.
It's been a month since I've been out on my KLR since breaking my fibula. I decided to take it out for ride on the trails today, mainly just putzing around on the easy trails, since my leg's still not at 100%. I was pleasantly surprised when she fired up after the second kick, with no choke, after sitting neglected for a month.
the rear shock on my 05 bit the farm .... can any 650 shock be fitted or is there a better idea ??? the first clue was when the rear wheel ate my license plate PB
Takes some doin', I've read, but--I think a 650 shock implant is possible. My rear tire eats up my license plate regularly, even with a fully-functional rear shock! Thus, I think, as the dealerships sometimes say, "That's NORMAL! They ALL do that!" I first thought mischevious vandals were bending the plate while the bike was parked in my parking lot; straightened that sucker out. Went on an off-road ride, and, would you belive it? Those pesky rascals FOLLOWED me, out in the boonies, and mangled the license plate again, just as they did before! The cure is: License plate relocation, regardless of rear shock condition, I fear.
well there is also the oil spewing from it when I push down that factory shock is over $600 :huh ebay thus far is not very promising on a 650 shock .... I watched a vid on how to and it looks doable. PB
The rear tire will eat the license plate when you bottom out, I think thats normal. I remounted the plate, still bottom out once on a while, but no damage to plate. I can send pic of plate mount if wanted. Sent from mobile
well what I need a is a shock solution as this one is broke and all I have is the spring to ride on I am going to try cogent dynamics since I met a couple of them at a rally maybe they have something laying around but shit this is depressing ... a beater bike and you cant get a shock for it for less than 50% of the value :eek1 I am pulling the thing next week to see if it truly is "un-rebuild-able" PB
does anyone know the torque value for the valve adjuster lock nuts? I have searched all over with no luck. Thanks!
This site is pretty good: http://home.earthlink.net/~klr250informationexchange/ Go to the Tool Kit page. It shows the valve adjustment procedures. I have used this info to adjust my valves. The torque value they list is 18 foot pounds. YMMV
