Rallye navigation bracket photo thread

I ran a similar width between side plates on mine. I made something similar to the JVO kit that J-mo used.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider-p...s/J/JMoandpiglet_WR450%20project_DSCF0156.jpg

1 centre spine for no better term and then spacers to get the width.

That is indeed a great idea Paul ! Thumbs up for the quick response to this safety issue . I have no experience in injuring myself in the bloody thing (and I hope I will never have :eek1 ) but it is indeed a major issue.

I think the concept is pretty neat. Nylon bolts is another food for thought, I was going that way when the safety issue came up. A Nylon bolt is strong enough both in shear and in tension to hold the assembly but you can choose the correct size so that if the load exceeds a certain value the bolts fail in shear. You just then replace the bolts. An M5 for example will break in shear using almost 100 kgs so I think it is doable ... (An M6 breaks at 180 kg in shear so I think this would be for quite a heavy person ) In the design that I am using, there is a third adjusting bolt which I plan to use as a crample zone if I may say. You can see here what I mean, I put the video before but jsut for reference

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AavtnGfcS4c&list=UUkUBAlrgCBQG0xMbOLDelOg&index=3&feature=plcp


In all of the above, I think we have to take in to account the cabling. If anything breaks, for safety reasons, may be it is a good idea to make sure that the instruments auto-disconnect from the bike to prevent damage in the cables. It would not be nice for the tower to hang around from three/four cables when smashed around. In Paul's design this is not a problem but I am just mentioning it for other people who may go to the extreme of getting the tower of the bike Another idea (if you go to the extremes that is ... ) would be to put steel cables to hold the tower close to the bike in order not to load the cables. Much like they do in the F1 with the wheels so the wheel does not get apart from the car. Too complicated in my opinion :huh

I dont know how all rally towers are attached, but I have a question. If the tower is only supported in one pivot point. Much like the one that you use to put the roadbook in the handlebars (sorry, I do not know if there is a name for it but I think you know what I am talking about). Even if you do not have a ''crample zone'' I think if you do not overtighten these bolts the thing will rotate upon impact. There is nothing to prevent it from doing so. Or am I missing something ? For sure it would be better to move out of the way but just questioning myself ....

The nice thing is that in almost any tower you can use materials to make it safer in case of impact with very little or no modification at all. It needs testing to get the tightening torques right so it slides, breaks etc with the correct load but that is why we are here

Looking good Joe, I like the mr plow sticker

I would call this video a success. The tower coped quite well with repeated blows. Thinking sideways a bit are road books the same for both moto's, quads, cars etc? For now I shall assume so. In a car that for example is involved in a roll over the road book that should to solidly mounted won't cause a issue. On a moto the crash is quite different. Therefore is it an idea to try and machine out of solid of HDPE a road book holder? ( the outside container) Pretty easy stuff to machine, its engineering grade, another thought ready for comment/criticism

Thanks! I thought you would like that!

It's actually pretty compact as it is, it is hard to two tell though without actually seeing it mounted in person. When I got the test model for the 690, I thought it looked big until it was mounted. weird huh

Looks good Paul, making good progress!

Machine a solid roadbook holder or how about just vac form one?

I guess the advantage of having an HDPE roadbook is only because it is cheaper. The flexibility is lost due to the geometry (an open box). So it will not give room (or not give as much as you would think) in order to try something like that. I would prefer the frame to take the blow and give away in case of an accident. Making the equipment itself flexible will not help as much.

A roadbook from composite materials will be lighter, you dont have the Aluminium welds as well but all in all it may be more expensive. touratech did not sell but then again Touratech did not sell well even with its Aluminium unit ...

The other thing that needs to be considered is that, let's say in Paul's design (because we have seen how it works, no offence Paul) say that the tower goes forward. That means that the fairing will most probable break and then the tower itself will be exposed. I am with safety here and I would prefer 1oo% to buy new equipment than to imprint my chest onto the roadbook but it needs some calculations so it does not break with blows that may not hurt you in the first place

fiberglass with a tricell or equive core would make for a great light bracket, and breakaway in a crash, but again... it'll break away and then how do you pack the front end out??

I too am concerned about the safety of the towers in an accident but even more so about the danger of sharp edged fairings. When I had my KTM 950 Adventure that small windscreen always made me nervous and I did bump it a few times while offroading. (Never had a bad crash) It looks like it could chop your head clean off. I bought some clear hose, split it lengthwise and put it on the edge of the windscreen like a bead. Blunted the sharp windscreen a bit and made me feel better.

Gany, post some pics!!!!!!

Another HPDE fairing is not far away. That may solve some of the problems with breakages. Also, can someone measure the thickness of the alloy on the F2R roadbook and let me know?

When theres any pics worth posting!! Progress is slooowwwww....

F2R roadbook alloy is 2.16mm including the black paint so guessing 2mm used. I say tape over the holes then vac form straight over the top with HDPE!

Good idea. I'll take my steel one up so we don't damage your original.

HDPE looks approximately 3rd the weight of alloy. So the wall thickness could be 4mm and be about the same weight maybe. Thoughts

Another vital part of the Nav tower is the switches , as I'm using my bike as adventurer as well i like to keep it road legal, currently in have just move to switch gear but I'd like to make it more usable and a bit cleaner .

I'm think of a 90deg bracket up the back of the billet MD switch the the KTM EXC type switch for the indicators but have not figured out something for the Hi\low head lights I've been looking at the highway dirt bike switch gear , but nothing quite fits my appliction , there is space under the ICO switch and spare threaded screw hole in the back and top .

I saw on one of the ktm 450rr pics the switch block thats normally on the bars mounted to one of the side plates. I had a look at it with mine but placed them in the normal position as I had the space. By the looks of it space becomes pretty critical so maybe even different bars would give different options.

I like these but I dont think the mounting hole is big enough as i could mount to the mirror bolt if they would fit , ( calling Paul )

Ok mudguts.

Do you have both a low beam light and a high beam light?

If so from what I understand with split systems like that (with no dual filament bulb) the low beam has to be on all the time. Its not legal to switch between them. Hence the low beam would be permanently on via direct link or through a relay. Therefore you only need a switch for high beam. If you going to run extra LED lights or equivalent they can run on a extra switch on your tower that can only function with the high beam on. That way if you kill the high beam so do the extra lights. When the high beam is on I figure you'd want all the lights on, not just the high beam alone.

If you run the low beam via a relay then if you are running only at night in the bush where legalities of your lighting system is not as relevant you can just swap the plug onto the low beam circuit taking away the power draw.

Can you fit one of these;


Stocked through mcsonline.com.au, if your after one let me know.

You see on the right of the ico switch the standard ktm switch gear I Want to get rid of the bulky clutter, I think I have it worked out looking at comas bike

A simple solution we use, exc switchs plug straight in to 690 enduro loom

Wish I had more time today, I'll try and get caught up with you guys tonight.

These are what I have made,





I played around with this and made a proto, but very time consuming and the push buttons needed a motor control chip to work the motor, yours for the taking, was going for ergos.