Fuel pump for 800gs

itsatdm -- Thanks for researching this part. I am keeping the part number and business phone number with me.

Regards,
Wendell

The only thing I can add is I found another site selling the same pump that says the PSI is 50lb. I think that is the same as OEM.

At that price it is worth giving it a try! Thanks for digging up this little treasure itsatdm!

Can someone point me to a video/pics on where/how to do this on the F800gs?
ie where the fuel pump control (FPC) module is located and how to remove it. Video on youtube for the 1200, but looking for something bike specific.

The fuel pump assembly on the video looked the same as the 800's located under the seat. Should be able to take off the seat and see the fuel pump controller under the rubber cover.
How does the CANbuss react to the card being gone?

great find on the fuel pump. Would be interesting to hear results of a replaced pump.
My bike was surging like crazy after I filled it up and added cleaner. Made the front end pop up like every 5 seconds or so for two or three minutes and the run for 10 or so minutes and start the surging routine again.

Ordered a replacement fuel pump and looked at the fuel pump control module. Rode the bike and it was cutting out like crazy. Long story short the kick stand is causing the engine to die. This is a seperate problem from the fuel sytem that was cutting out. May be fine after filling up and Techtron added.
Now on to the kick stand issue..

Does anyone have instructions for removing the fuel pump? Tried bipassing the controller still wouldn't start and gs911 says it is the fuel pump. Taking a look at the link and thinking for 60 bucks it may be worth a try since the bmw unit is 500.

Here you go

http://www.motorcycleinfo.co.uk/index.cfm?fa=contentGeneric.nvxszdkebklxuaer&pageId=428065

Thanks, but that shows removing the controller. I have done that.
I am looking to go a bit further and remove the entire fuel pump hanger dismantle it and replace just the fuel pump motor.

This?

(Moderator, I'm assuming that a limited snip from a manual is allowed under fair-use)....

The BMW dealer has the special tool the "pin wrench" to actually unscrew the top...
I've not tried it myself, but others have successfully used either a block of wood or brass drift to remove it.
Obviously something that is "non-sparking" would be a good choice here....
I think that the OEM fuel line clamps are single use only...

thx JR.

Just to add my 2 cents..........

I've removed many a pump assy when doing the fuel level sensor replacement under warranty on the 08's and 9's. The clamp on the fuel line, at least on those years, was the one time use crimped on type. It's easy to break the plastic nipple when trying to cut off the clamp (yep, did that). If you remove the two screws on that fitting then you can remove the whole fitting leaving the hose clamp intact. There is just one o ring on there and if you're careful you just re-use it. The fitting isn't sold separately so why risk it. The residual fuel pressure helps pop it out but watch for spray in the eyes :eek1 .

The retaining ring is torqued to 35NM (I believe) but experience taught me that once it's tight, it's tight so maybe do the stripe thing before loosening it rather than worry about how to tq it. A little vaseline on the gasket helps if its dry on reassembly, also on the fitting o ring. It's an aircraft thing...... Hanger full of guys, all with tubs of vaseline in their toolboxes .

Excellent tips Reaver - Thank you!

Although I don't really know if I have due cause to worry, and I have only limited experience ...
Using worm gear clamps on high pressure lines always makes me wince a bit ....
Is there real cause for alarm there (assuming I don't use worm gear clamps from Freight Harbor Salvage)?

Hi JRWoody

The one time use crimp on clamps work well because they're self limiting in clamping pressure. Once the two ends touch they can't be further crimped. Think of the omega symbol Ω . The problem is (was) that when the rubber hose dries up over 10 years, clamping pressure is lost so it may start to leak. Time for new hoses anyway. Also, many left the factory without enough crimp. It was routine to find a leaking hose and just recrimp it without batting an eye or as preventative maintenance. They are tough to cut off though and can cause a scene while words are being spoken in the attempt. Also you lose focus and break the part the hose is attatched to. Oops.

The worm gear clamps are great as long as they are stainless steel and are the thick heavy duty type. Problem there is that they have a hex head and people feel the need to tighten the crap out of them with a ratchet just short of stress failure. The rubber shouldn't ooze out of the slots like a play dough extruder. Much better to have these for maintenance esp when travelling. Who brings different size clamps and the big heavy crimper?????

Play dough extruder - man that's an excellent description!

+1 on Play-doh extruder

Thanks Reaver!

Ordered one of the replacement pumps from Ebay for $69 bucks. I don't need it until i get the kick stand issue resolved but it came today after ordering Friday. great service. Anybody have any news after installing one ?

Once piece of news reported on some threads (perhaps including this one ... so sorry if it's a repeat) is that the canister filter on some bikes seems to be clogging to the point of loosing some efficiency thus making the pump work harder.
I'd suggest back-flushing the filter to see if you get much of any gunk out of it ...

The filter is not available as a separate item from BMW, and the mfg. does not appear to sell it in the aftermarket,
so .... well ... it's being discussed on a thread here somewhere

I decided to let the dealer replace the $490 part:


I plan on rebuilding the old one ...just in case.