Hi Guys, I'm looking for crank seals for a '73 Suzuki TC100. I see one left side crank seal on ebay (17 April 2013) but I havn't seen anything for the right side in several weeks. Anyone know of an aftermarket supplier or a generic seal that will fit? Thanks Jesse EDIT: I don't have a service manual, but from the microfiche found online here, maybe there isn't a right crank seal? Could that be?
The RH crank seal fits into the disc valve cover. Crank seals will very rarely fail unless a bike has been standing for some while and there is internal corrosion, so very carefully check for main bearing wear before replacing them. Take the dimensions of the old seals if you need to change them, and you should be able to get them from a good bearing supplier.
Thanks for the input TS. I'm traveling for work right now, but I'm making an intake adapter so I can use my motion pro leak down tester. I've already replaced the piston rings, but that hasn't fixed my very hard starting bike. Rebuilt the carb, but it still only runs with choke at partial throttle. So I'm guessing crank seals next. Until I do the leakdown test though, I'm just guessing.
Your symptoms say to look for a plugged pilot jet before you get too crazy. Not flowing fuel at idle normally is classic pilot jet failure behavior..... Just buy a new one.... Then if you need a seal try BikeBandit. Suzuki might still have those or take an old one in and have one made. I would still pump the engine though and check for crank/rod play as that engine is old.
I've cleaned and replaced the pilot jet with a brand new one. It's not it. Bikebandit doesn't have the seal. That's what I was originally asking for it on this thread because I was only able to find one on Ebay (and I bought it) but I can't find the right side seal anywhere. Where exactly do you take a crank seal to have made? EDIT: I've also checked the rotary intake timing and spark timing, as that can be a cuplit on these bikes, but to no avail.
I've gotten crank seals from Tull bearing in Minneapolis. I just brought the old one in. I don't remember if they were able to find a number on it or if they took measurements. They have been a VERY helpful local resource.
May not be an issue that far down the fuel chain either. How does the petcock and fuel line look? Those old metal tanks are very likely to be rusty inside if you have not cleaned them thoroughly. See if it will run with an attached fuel bottle like the Motion Pro one or an old lawnmower plastic type. If it is rust you may already have plugged up the pilot circuit already just trying to run it. Rust can be a real PIA. Should also show up in your float bowl too.
Tried a different fuel tank too, no luck, plenty of fuel getting to the carb. I've done all the basics and redone the basics twice over, over the past year. After replacing piston rings, rebuilding the carb, new fuel filter, and checking spark timing, it's either crank seals or rotary intake timing. I'm pretty competent with 2 strokes, I just need help sourcing the crank seals. I think ya'll answered my questions. Thanks!
Check crank for main bearing wear, if its ok and the bike hasnt been left standing for a long while, then the seals are almost certainly ok. If its simply a matter of not running, then if you have a good spark and compression, the first thing to try is a squirt of aerosol brake cleaner directly into the carb mouth, ideally while a helper is kicking the bike over. In many cases, when bikes have been standing carbs will be blocked internally, and will not start. Brake cleaner method shows if thats the case, and that you either need a new carb, or maybe try ultrasonic cleaning on the OE carb.
I do not agree with Twinshocker in this case. Crankseals that old have pretty much turned to hard plastic at the seal face. If you can replace them ,do so and save yourself hassles later on. May likely be a difference in philosophy as I believe you might as well eliminate that problem BEFORE that ethanol eats them up. Seals do not age gracefully in 2 strokes that have been sitting around for decades.
A new carb? These things are so simple it is not rocket science. Set the carb in Pinesol or a chem dip and clean out all the passages. I agree with buls4evr. The crank seals are more than likely hard and need replaced. They are not pliable anymore. It is cheap insurance to get it to run right.
Agree!!! Everytime I "Assume" that the seal will work, the lips get ripped off with the first few revolutions of the crank. Trans seals don't do much better. Replace the seals and don't look back. Not sure why you would have to replace the carb....
If the crank seals are not leaking or damaged in any way replacing them is pointless. Pressure testing the crankcase will show whether the seals are leaking or not, and will save time and expense which might not be required. Contrary to popular belief carbs which have been unused for some while may need to be replaced, if very fine internal passages are blocked, and the blockages cannot be removed by something like ultrasonic cleaning.
Not going to get in a pissing match here. That being said, there are "If's" and "May's" in your advice given here. We all know that diagnostics online fall short of hands on first hand experience. The suggestions that Scootern29, Buls4evr and I have made are based on our experience with 2 stroke motors. You bring up some good points and testing procedures, but a 40 year old TC/TS100 could use a little freshening up with new seals. If they aren't leaking when tested today, they surely will be leaking in the near future given the properties of todays gas....
Careful twinshocker is the pissing match king I agree with ya Willie . My ty175 sat for 20+ years after a little service it ran great. About 40miles into its first real trail ride in decades the flywheel side seal started sucking air and melted here down. About a $125 mistake. Next old bike is getting seals ASAP . It was so easy to replace I was pissed I didn't do it right off the bat.
