KLR650 Only Thread......

Thnx for posting above... some good info. I think the oil in KLRs leads a tough life. Reading this article below convinced me to change my oil out sooner than I had been doing.

Another interesting automotive vs motorcycle oil article: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

in both my 2009 and 1990. I use Castrol GTX 10w40. Tried different viscosities but found 10W40 works best for me and my riding. The only thing I've found with using automotive oil is the clutch tends to grab when started in gear cold. After warm it's a non-issue. My clutch doesn't slip, never has unless I've been riding it in technical terrain. When I start my bike cold in gear, I just tap the start button to "break" the clutch loose. Haven't had any problems, both bikes have 32K on them now and I've had the 2009 since new and the 1990 since approx 18K miles. I'll stick to what works for me.

Seems to be a KLR issue regardless what oil is used.

Generally only 'thinner' oil like 5W-30, 10W-30 (stuff we're not using anyways) will have the dreaded friction modifiers. 'Thicker' oils that we use (xW-40, xW-50) never will. Thus they will never say 'energy conserving' in the API donut symbol.

Putting it up for sale

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=520330&page=160

Neither does mine (2007 Kawasaki KLR650 Owner's Manual):



So much for Kawasaki's recommendations (no prohibition listed for "friction modifiers" or "energy conserving" in the KLR250 Service Manual supplement, either).

The Clymer Generation 1 KLR650 manual contains the same italicized caveat regarding additives you imaged above, but I found no specific friction modifier/energy conserving oil-in-the-bottle cautions:



Regardless, thanks for sharing your most interesting research.

Oils containing "friction modifiers" or formulated with some "energy-conserving" association may indeed be detrimental to wet clutches; just didn't recall any Kawasaki advice to that effect.

Sorry about your clutch; if it failed as a result of running zinc-laden Mobil 1, this fact's worth a warning to KLR (and other wet-clutch motorcycle) riders.

Again, appreciate the references.

Now if you have a Kawasaki KLR works manual it tells you specifically to use Moly based grease when assembling several parts of the motor - starter motor idler gear bearings, clutch lifter shaft, etc.

I have never heard of a documented failure regarding the use of different oil types in KLR's or extended oil change periods. There is a heap of opinion, assumptions, claims, speculation and "..I know a mechanic who told me...", "...an oil rep once told me...", relating to when, how, why not and why. Low oil, yes.

Choose the right weight oil that KAWA suggest, then the color of the bottle you like or flip a coin. You cant go wrong.

Seems interesting that my Honda manual says it when the clutch technology is basically identical.

Regarding my clutch- I alluded that I couldn't directly attribute the cause. I did use Mobil 1 for many touring miles with medium-duty off-roading. I later switched when my clapped out car dictated cheaper, thicker oil.

Is 5.10-17 and 3.00-21 the right tire size or should I get a 3.25-21 front.
thanks

I get whichever oil is the cheapest when I get on the oil aisle at Walmart. Rotella T, Delo 400, Castrol GTX... I just change it at 2K miles and ride...

Either front will work

Yes but I still like the fries from Burger King better than the ones from McDonands :)

Lots of mis-info regarding viscosity...Here is a post I did over at another KLR forum. Hope that helps explain it better.

As others stated you should purchase/use the oil as outlined in your owners manual. Different engines (bearings actually) require different viscosity. My Viper requires 0W even in our 115F summer heat.

Yeah the ones they have now are pretty dang good... Years ago McDonald's fries where better than Burger King, Dairy Queen and their daughter Wendy's

I have a big gun exhaust on my 05, it pops a bit. I've gone from too lean (po) to too rich, and might even have been right at some point. I'm not exactly a klr expert, or jetting expert, but I think its the nature of the beast.


Does anyone else's klr get this weird 'speed wobble' thing on the highway? At around 75 indicated my bike starts getting this lazy wobble back and forth. I played with rear preload and it didn't seem to change anything. I typically stay below 70 anyways, so its not a major issue, but that will probably change next summer when I use the bike more for longer rides. Running kenda big blocks, front at 95% rear at about 60% ish. Both were new 700 miles ago.

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NO.

Many factors can contribute to front end "wobble";

Possible causes.........
Low tire pressure
Unbalanced tire
Warped brake rotor
Bad wheel bearings
Mismatched front and rear tire treads designs
Bad or mis-adjusted neck bearings
Uneven weight distribution / front to rear

or possible other causes. Start simple, like readjust weight, re-balance your tires, check neck bearings and so on........

No offense to anyone out there who spends time studying engine oils or is an actual technician, but don't you think it'd be better to just use what the owners manual tells you to, being the people who actually 'built' the machine probably know what's best for it? Think about it The japanese aren't as dumb as they used to be(ex. WWII). Plus it'd save a whole bunch of time for riding than unneeded arguements proving people wrong.

Agree to a point. My takeaway from these various oil related articles I've read is that most (pretty well all?) of the name brand oils are pretty decent quality nowadays... and certainly much better than 20+ years ago. This business tho of mineral based oils (automotive or motorcycle) showing significant degradation in as little as 800 miles really surprised me. These scientific studies do seem to confirm that full synthetics degrade much slower, holding up much better under severe use. I would rather know than not know (about the truth in motor oil quality/performance), particularly given the claims of some manufacturers, and the huge price difference between some oils. Check out the price of a new KLR head - sure makes me very reluctant to attempt to save a few pennies extending an oil change interval! I don't think that anyone here is really suggesting deviating away from OEM viscosity recommendations or oil change intervals.

I once bought an ST1100 from a guy who owned another ST1100. He had 317,000 miles on his with no... zero ... motor work. He said people come to him all the time asking what oil he uses. "You must have THE ANSWER!"

"10W-40. Whatever's on sale."



Keep it changed, keep it topped off, ride it.

Hmm....

I believe I'm in the 'none of the above' category. Tire pressure is good, tires were balanced when new by dealer, I don't believe the rotor is warped, wheel bearings seem good, tires matched, not sure about neck bearings but only 6,200 miles on bike, and there was almost no load last time I noticed it. Small backseat bag, under 2lbs.

I'm thinking maybe either the rifle windshield is too tall for it, or maybe the tires are just wearing funny. They look to be wearing normal, but the rear is squaring off way quicker than the front.

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